How to LS Swap a FJ60 or FJ62. Quick and dirty guide for regular folks wanting to do an engine swap in their driveway. (6 Viewers)

[YODA 88 62]

Finished a crossmember/skidplate for the swap.

3/16” 2x4 square tubing, 1/4” plate bent with a 20 ton press.

Found the limit of a homemade press brake…the reason for the bow in the skid plate.

A step drill bit rips big holes faster than a regular drill bit. Drill a 3/16” pilot and then cut a huge hole in no time with the step drill bit. Your drill will let out a little smoke if you push it too hard.

Decided to leave one side of the skid plate open for easy cleaning. Also, for the skid plate to be able to flex and be bent back.

On to all the little tasks to finish this swap in the next decade or two.

 

[dbbowen]

ah man i need to make a skid plate so so so bad. Ive already smacked my tcase once since my swap

 

[Fyffer]

Running a 3/8” steel one with a few access holes, only 45.6#. Easy off hard on (well my only “garage” and flat spot in driveway). Little weather Dependent working by myself.

 

[dbbowen]

Running a 3/8” steel one with a few access holes, only 45.6#. Easy off hard on (well my only “garage” and flat spot in driveway). Little weather Dependent working by myself.

View attachment 3896808

How does it mount to the frame rails?

 

[Fyffer]

Tapped some holes to frame (disregard the nut certs) and bolt on.

 

[dbbowen]

This needs to be next on my to Do list!

 

[huminajumina]

I was browsing to see if you had any comments about Hood clearance with the insulation and top cover on the engine, but realizing you used well sorted mounts.... I am wondering if the felpro intake gaskets set a little higher than the OEM intake gaskets, they seemed thicker when I bolted them on, but I am having a little clearance issue with my hood.

 

[dbbowen]

I had to clearance the mounts on my intake a little bit to get my plastic engine cover to sit lower on the top of the intake and also not wiggle around as much.

 

[huminajumina]

I had to clearance the mounts on my intake a little bit to get my plastic engine cover to sit lower on the top of the intake and also not wiggle around as much.

That makes sense! I was trying to comb over your thread I feel like I read it somewhere, but had a temporary moment of panic of having to cut to tacked mounts off

 

[yotadude520]

That makes sense! I was trying to comb over your thread I feel like I read it somewhere, but had a temporary moment of panic of having to cut to tacked mounts off

Are you running Cruiser Matt's mounts? I didn't have to do any modifications to my intake and my hood fits fine with the insulation.

 

[huminajumina]

Are you running Cruiser Matt's mounts? I didn't have to do any modifications to my intake and my hood fits fine with the insulation.

Yea I am using Cruisermatt’s mounts. The top cover touches just barely near the front. They’re mounted right where they need to be, I’m starting to think my hood has had some paintless dent repair or something, the glue looks really thick and gobbed on. I’m wondering if a different hood would clear it better, but I can run it without the cover if I have to or I may look into lowering the top cover a little.

 

[dbbowen]

If you dont have the purge solenoid there on the front of the intake, you can gain like an inch or so of drop on the intake cover.

 

[huminajumina]

If you dont have the purge solenoid there on the front of the intake, you can gain like an inch or so of drop on the intake cover.

I have been staring at it, that’s what it looks like, the cover sets higher to clear the purge valve. I was going to keep it & use the VC120 canister. But I went a head and bought the ICT Billet evap solenoid delete & plan to just run a vacuum line and check valve. So I’ll have a look at lowering the intake cover a bit & make some room.

 

[dbbowen]

I have been staring at it, that’s what it looks like, the cover sets higher to clear the purge valve. I was going to keep it & use the VC120 canister. But I went a head and bought the ICT Billet evap solenoid delete & plan to just run a vacuum line and check valve. So I’ll have a look at lowering the intake cover a bit & make some room.

I am using the ict billet evap cap as well. I am collecting the parts to go back to the EVAP. not running the evap sucks haha. Im running no charcoal canister and just a check valve and i had to relocate it up near my headlights because the fuel smell. If you fill the truck all the way up, or if its over 100 degrees outside it will vent out quite a bit. The 60 tank sucks for fuel venting. If it was me doing it, id try to get as much clearance with the purge solenoid in there in tact, and then go from there. Because ive got to go back and add all of the stuff now

 

[huminajumina]

I am using the ict billet evap cap as well. I am collecting the parts to go back to the EVAP. not running the evap sucks haha. Im running no charcoal canister and just a check valve and i had to relocate it up near my headlights because the fuel smell. If you fill the truck all the way up, or if its over 100 degrees outside it will vent out quite a bit. The 60 tank sucks for fuel venting. If it was me doing it, id try to get as much clearance with the purge solenoid in there in tact, and then go from there. Because ive got to go back and add all of the stuff now

That’s good to know. Yea maybe it’s worth trying to keep it to avoid any future frustration. I’ve had evap lines come loose on the LS1 swap & it smelled bad, was definitely something I’d like to avoid going forward. Thanks for the heads up.

 

[cruisermatt]

I have been staring at it, that’s what it looks like, the cover sets higher to clear the purge valve. I was going to keep it & use the VC120 canister. But I went a head and bought the ICT Billet evap solenoid delete & plan to just run a vacuum line and check valve. So I’ll have a look at lowering the intake cover a bit & make some room.

We have a VC120 bracket coming very very soon

 

[dbbowen]

That’s good to know. Yea maybe it’s worth trying to keep it to avoid any future frustration. I’ve had evap lines come loose on the LS1 swap & it smelled bad, was definitely something I’d like to avoid going forward. Thanks for the heads up.

Sure thing. On other vehicles ive swapped in the past i didnt have as bad of a gas smell as i do with the 60. Its got to be the tank building pressure

 

[White Stripe]

You can always relocate the purge valve and put a 90* fitting in it's current location.

 

[yotadude520]

I am using the ict billet evap cap as well. I am collecting the parts to go back to the EVAP. not running the evap sucks haha. Im running no charcoal canister and just a check valve and i had to relocate it up near my headlights because the fuel smell. If you fill the truck all the way up, or if its over 100 degrees outside it will vent out quite a bit. The 60 tank sucks for fuel venting. If it was me doing it, id try to get as much clearance with the purge solenoid in there in tact, and then go from there. Because ive got to go back and add all of the stuff now

I have been staring at it, that’s what it looks like, the cover sets higher to clear the purge valve. I was going to keep it & use the VC120 canister. But I went a head and bought the ICT Billet evap solenoid delete & plan to just run a vacuum line and check valve. So I’ll have a look at lowering the intake cover a bit & make some room.

Here's my EVAP setup, just running the VC120 canister to straight intake vacuum with a check valve.

Hasn't given me any trouble and I've taken this thing to Denver twice, and just went last weekend on a trip where I got up to 9500 feet very quickly on a 95 degree day. Funny enough my brother in law's 1999 Suburban had some serious pressure issues on the same trip and my 60 was fine.

I am really diligent not to fill the tank up though when it's really hot (usually get it to around 3/4 or more) and always use Premium gas when I'm going up in elevation.

Here's the ICT billet adapter that I used, all you need is a 1/8 to 1/4 adapter and some 1/4" fuel line.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079TFQHVP?psc=1&smid=A1TNMI4LHV0ZX&ref_=chk_typ_imgToDp&tag=ihco-20

 

[huminajumina]

We have a VC120 bracket coming very very soon

You have a loyalty rewards program????

You can always relocate the purge valve and put a 90* fitting in it's current location.

That's something I didn't think about, Keeps things operational but allows me to clearance the cover, which is what I am aiming to do... Sounds like I should think it out before I mail out my ECM, I am thinking leave the purge valve, but disable the EVAP MIL Codes.

@yotadude520 That is basically what I was thinking, just debating using the purge solenoid or just check valve and intake vacc....Wish I would have bought the adapter you got instead of the delete.

Thanks everyone, that gives me plenty of ideas to think over before I commit to anything or spend money.. @dbbowen yea, I am am starting to get the feeling something on the 60/62 tanks seems to syphon and vent a little more that other stuff. I noticed that when removing the old engine, the supply, return, and vent lines needed to be plugged immediately.