How to LS Swap a FJ60 or FJ62. Quick and dirty guide for regular folks wanting to do an engine swap in their driveway. (39 Viewers)

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my observation on the roll-over valves I've seen (which I have one or two) but have not installed. The type with the little metal ball that if the valve gets to a certain angle the ball then moves and shuts the vent off. I wonder at what angle that the fuel really would stop being able to run out. Yea I can move that around and watch it etc and I realize its a good choice. I may be wrong but it seems that you could have a flip on your side event and the roll-over valve not shut. I too would agree its best to have one in place....in lieu of not . I know this can be solved. I've often wondered what the off-road race guys do as to plumbing. Here is something Ive come across in my search...where or not its a workable solution etc...I'm not informed enough to say. In stead of the hard line to the tank as in the example...rather then adapt what ever hose setup, becuase I doubt many will be removing their fuel tank to weld on another port.

An #6 One Way Check Valve Roll Over Air Vent Kit With #6 Weld On Bung For Fuel Tank

An #6 One Way Check Valve Roll Over Air Vent Kit With #6 Weld On Bung For Fuel Tank from Pacific Customs Unlimited your best source for Street, Off Road, Sandrail, Dune Buggy, Manx, Rock Crawler, Volksrod, or Mud Buggy VW Parts.
www.pacificcustoms.com
 
tmxmotorsports said:
If I'm not mistaken the charcoal canister has it own valve if that you wanna call it with a little filter with wiring to control it along with the one on the intake and was mounted in the rear over the rear axle. know for a fact on gmc dinalie how ever it's spelled I've owned one if I ever do a legal complaint swap using the gm factory components is the way I will go much more work making gas cap sensor not go off rear evap sensor front evap sensor along with fuel tank pressure sensors working.
Click to expand...
That one i linked is from an older GM truck so its not got the electronics in it, its just a square version of an old school charcoal canister. Ive read others who have used it with good success. The thing with the charcoal canister with the electronics and the newer gen4 motors is i think you need the fuel pressure sensor from the oem tank to get it all to work if im not mistaken
 
Elbert said:
my observation on the roll-over valves I've seen (which I have one or two) but have not installed. The type with the little metal ball that if the valve gets to a certain angle the ball then moves and shuts the vent off. I wonder at what angle that the fuel really would stop being able to run out. Yea I can move that around and watch it etc and I realize its a good choice. I may be wrong but it seems that you could have a flip on your side event and the roll-over valve not shut. I too would agree its best to have one in place....in lieu of not . I know this can be solved. I've often wondered what the off-road race guys do as to plumbing. Here is something Ive come across in my search...where or not its a workable solution etc...I'm not informed enough to say. In stead of the hard line to the tank as in the example...rather then adapt what ever hose setup, becuase I doubt many will be removing their fuel tank to weld on another port.

An #6 One Way Check Valve Roll Over Air Vent Kit With #6 Weld On Bung For Fuel Tank

An #6 One Way Check Valve Roll Over Air Vent Kit With #6 Weld On Bung For Fuel Tank from Pacific Customs Unlimited your best source for Street, Off Road, Sandrail, Dune Buggy, Manx, Rock Crawler, Volksrod, or Mud Buggy VW Parts.
www.pacificcustoms.com
Click to expand...
Those rollover valves are just like the valve i have. They work but if there is liquid fuel behind it with any pressure at alll, like even a babys breath worth of pressure, itwill fail and send fuel out. The only way to do it right is to send the vapors back into your unmetered air in your intake. The FJ60 fuel tank is vented horribly and even with a vented gas cap it builds up too much pressure and sends fuel through the vent on hot days. I basically never my truck over 3/4 in the summer time if the temps are above 90*
 
dbbowen said:
Is there a reason for doing this? Youre talking about on the transfer case adapter right? Ive not had any issues with the supplied cap head bolts that came with my kit so far.
Click to expand...
Yep. Trying to get away from allen heads. Some reports of loosening after install
 
ceylonfj40nut said:
Yep. Trying to get away from allen heads. Some reports of loosening after install
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huh, ive not had any of mine backing out. I think as long as you can get the proper thread pitch I dont see how it would hurt. Just make sure you can get a ratchet or at least a ratcheting wrench in there so you can remove them down the road if you ever needed to take them out. And make sure the area around the hole is flat
 
dbbowen said:
Those rollover valves are just like the valve i have. They work but if there is liquid fuel behind it with any pressure at alll, like even a babys breath worth of pressure, itwill fail and send fuel out. The only way to do it right is to send the vapors back into your unmetered air in your intake. The FJ60 fuel tank is vented horribly and even with a vented gas cap it builds up too much pressure and sends fuel through the vent on hot days. I basically never my truck over 3/4 in the summer time if the temps are above 90*
Click to expand...

I"m going to see about one of these one-way check valves ...which I'm told requires X amount of pressure to open (open would mean vent vapor) how effective that is I don't know. I would place this one-way check vale (in-line) with the hose that runs the hard line on the firewall in an attempt to control liquid egress.... If there is a simple way on my setup to have it (in a close loop) and back to the intake (in the big picture) I'll see about doing that. *** some of my rambling may not fly or work with LS setup....so just an FYI .. I don't want to cause a condition of where this purge/vent valve on my intake is causing it to ingress liquid. I did notice in one of the other threads about evap...where there is diagram ..the Toyota charcoal canister had some type of valve on the intake side of the canister. The canister I will use will either be the GM coffe can type or clone, or the kind of box looking evap canister from the more modern GM truck. My approach is to try to fully stop liquid egress from the hard line vent port on the firewall. ** i recently notice some check valves on the city racer web site, and I think those intended purpose is related to the plastic device setup in the rear quarter panel. The note on the city racer web site said something about it being non-UAS model version. I don't know if non-usa market FJ60's had emissions or what they had...there must be some functional difference to call out a non-USA version of a valve related to evap back there in the passenger rear quarter. FYI
 
On my FJ40 with LS swap - I’ve been through a million different caps. I have had a 13-17 and 21# stant all of them burped. I now run a cheapo 19# and it still burps. I have given up. Open to discuss with all of you. I need to solve this too.
 
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BurntToast said:
What pressure radiator cap are people using? Did some light wheeling today and never got above 210 but my 15psi cap was burping fluid into the reservoir
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I was using a 28 psi cap for a year or two and couldn’t figure out why all of my heater hoses were leaking. It was mostly the rear heater hoses. Turns out 28 psi is way too high for the 60 series. I’m using a 15 psi stant cap now and have very minimal hose leaking. I would delete the rear heater but it’s nice to have with my daughter in the back seat.

I do get some burping but I always assumed it pulled it back in. My coolant level goes up and down in the overflow bottle. Maybe somewhere between 15 and 20 is the ticket? I like the lever lock radiator caps a lot.

I think you have to find the Goldilocks zone of no burping and not leaking coolant in your heater hoses.

IMG_0962.jpeg
 
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I’m running the cap that came with my FSR radiator and never had any burping issues or new coolant leaks. Truck consistently runs at 190-195, never seen it go any higher.

Only leaks I have are my hard lines for the rear heater which leaked before too.
 
yotadude520 said:
I’m running the cap that came with my FSR radiator and never had any burping issues or new coolant leaks. Truck consistently runs at 190-195, never seen it go any higher.

Only leaks I have are my hard lines for the rear heater which leaked before too.
Click to expand...
That’s where mine leak. They’ll leak at the back or at the Y fitting on the firewall. Dropping from the 28 psi cap (what you have) to 15 helped a lot with the leaks
 
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