Next is fuel. There are a ton of ways to skin this cat, and the setup is different for gen3 vs gen 4. Gen 3 motors use a fuel pressure regulator that is located on the fuel rail itself. Gen 4 uses an external fuel pressure regulator. Ill do my best to talk about both here.
So the absolute greatest way to do this is to call
@orangefj45 or
@wardharris and get a long range tank for a fj62, and then put a deatschwerks unversal in tank fuel pump in there. Then run your supply line with a fuel filter using -6 hose or bend you some stainless tubing to take the place of the stock fuel tubing.
In the real world, that whole setup is $$$$ so this is just a way to do it cheaper and simpler. This is what i did in the meantime, but am planning on eventually going with the long range tank with in tank fuel pump. The in tank fuel pump is much quieter and more reliable, but not totally necessary for your swap.
So earlier you removed your supply fuel line when you had the engine out of the truck. Go ahead and remove the brackets for your brake lines and your return line. Save the bolts and everything. Youll notice on the frame where it bends towards the rear there is a lot of empty non threaded holes. You can use rivnuts on these to secure your in line fuel pump. Move your lines around and try to make some room for your fuel pump to be mounted, its pretty obvious where things will want to live. If you mount it here it will be below your tank and wont run dry. I personally like the deatschwerks products over the warlboro stuff, but you can choose to use whatever. The Warlboro stuff has complaints about pressure falling off at higher RPM and the DW pump doesnt. If you have $$$ to spend aeromotive is probably the best fuel pump you can buy. For a stock LS, the DW250IL is plenty for a fuel pump. Its a little noisier but will give you a bit better performance.
Speaking of fuel pumps, you will want to use some rubber isolation on the pump bracket to eliminate some unwanted noise. From your rivnuts you can use these rubber isotors:
amazon link
Those are m6 so obviously use m6 rivnuts. they will isolate the vibration of the fuel pump bracket from your frame rail. Then use the supplied rubber that came with the fuel pump bracket to isolate the fuel pump from the bracket. I also added to my bracket with rubber mastic tape to increase sound dampening. You can mount the fuel filter to the frame rail closer to the front of the truck using an existing threaded hole and also a rivnut on a blank hole. Once this fuel pump bracket and the fuel pump is in place and the fuel filter is in place, you have a base of where to run your fuel lines. You want to come out of your gas tank with regular fuel injection rubber hose, into a pre filter, then into the fuel pump with normal fuel injection hose. From the fuel pump forward is where the high pressure AN hose begins.
You will build these hoses the exact same way you built the trans hoses in the posts above.
For a Gen 3 motor using the stock fuel regulator on the fuel rail you will use a regular high pressure fuel filter after the fuel pump. Then run -6 line all the way up to an adapter on the supply line on the stock fuel rail on the motor.
For the return, use the GM oem fuel return line that was on the motor. You will need to keep the GM return line but cut the metal hose 3 inches from the flex hose. This should give you a quick connect, the black flexible hose, and 3 inches of metal hose to use. With the GM quick connect attached to the fuel rail, attach a rubber fuel injection hose to the metal part of the hose you cut from the oem fuel line on the opposite end, and attach the other end of this rubber line to the stock toyota fuel return hard line that runs along the frame and back into your tank. You can use AN hose and fittings for this if youd like, but this is very low pressure and it is not needed. Worm clamps, or even better breeze clamps are fine for all of the normal rubber fuel injection hose as its low pressure. there is a special tool to remove the GM OEM fuel lines from the fuel rail, they sell them at HF or amazon. Definitley get a set, theyre cheap
Here is a diagram of the fuel supply line i drew out to help visualize it. All of these fittings are -6 in size and if you want to upgrade i would suggest vibrant. These fittings are a place where you can splurge some. Especially on the adapter for the fuel rail and the fitting off the adapter.
Gen 4 will use a Fuel filter with a fuel pressure regulator built in and will have a return back to the tank from the filter. The Fuel pressure regulator and filter will look like this. The main difference in the line will be that your fuel rail will not have a return. You will need to remove your stock return line, and make a new return line off of this filter back to your tank. This will go in the same spot as the fuel filter for the Gen 3 diagram above.
Quote
@Megadoomer " in 2003 GM has a Late 03 GEN3 motor that is returnless fuel and DBW without AFM or DOD. "
Here are some pictures from my setup.
Fuel rail. Notice the gen 3 fuel filter regulator on the fuel rail. Also the lower return line is the stock fuel hose modified and the upper is a -6 line with 2 AN fittings.
Once your hose is built and your filter and pump are mounted you can tighten all of your AN fittings, and reuse the threaded holes in the frame to secure the fuel line with Adel clamps to the frame. You might have to share a bolt with some brake line for some of the brackets. There are plenty of threaded holes under there.
Also, while you are in here you can go ahead and knock out your vacuum hose that will attach to the brake booster. You can use the stock vacuum line fitting that is located on the back of the intake and use some of the old transmission hard line to shove into the plastic vacuum line fitting for the GM intake. I put a bend in the hard line and filed it down some and epoxied it into the plastic. Then you can use a Molded 90* 1969 camaro PCV hose to connect to your brake booster for a clean look. PN: EGP-1792. The trans line and the vacuum port on the brake booster are both the same size so you can just use this hose alone. You can see it in the photo with the fuel lines:
If you would prefer not to do this vacuum hose for your factory brakes, this is a good time to swap over to Hydroboost brakes. You will need the PS Pump from a 6.0 truck, it will bolt into place. Then (if keeping stock 60 brake calipers) get a smaller bore Hydroboost master. 1 inch would be ideal if you can find it. If you go larger you will need larger brake calipers. I am still going back and forth on swapping to hydroboost personally.
Once you are done with this, check all your AN fittings again to be sure they are tight. This is the one dangerous part of the swap. If you overtighten a fitting or under tighten it at the fuel rail it will drip onto your exhaust. You really want to get this stuff right the first time and double check it after start up and check for smells or leaks. You should never smell any fuel in here.
As far as the Charcoal canister is concerned, I just removed mine completely. I attached normal fuel injection hose from the metal line along the frame rail by the passenger side firewall and ran it up behind my wiper washer bottle and put a 1 way breather valve on it. I have had no issues so far running it this way, and my buddies with LS Swapped 240s havent had any issues doing this either. You could use a fancy ARB breather if you wanted but the cheap dorman ones from Oreiley work just fine. I did have to shim my washer bottle out some from the fender with some washers so it would not kink the hose. You can also see my Fuel return line in this photo as well, both of these hoses are secured to the firewall with adel clamps using existing threaded holes. Ironically, before i removed my charcoal canister, i could never fill my 60 up past 16 gallons when completely empty. I always thought that they had 16 gallon tanks, but after doing this i can fill it up past 20 gallons. Im thinking something was wrong with my charcoal canister or something. I also had a lot of blowback when i opened the gas cap and the gas pump would always overfill out of the hole. Since doing this there is not really any blowback of fumes and the pump doesnt spew gas out of the filler hole anymore. It is hard to see from the photo, but there is DEI heat wrap wrapped around both the return rubber hose and the vent rubber hose down there under that little bracket. I have that running into another heat wrap covering the fuel hoses and wiring near the exhaust. That little section of frame rail gets pretty busy, but with some heat protection youll be all good.
