
Possible bolt in 140-145a alternator

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Not what I said. 'Able to put out' is not misleading. Saying it 'puts out' (for example) 200A at idle, on the other hand, is misleading because it makes it sound like you turn the key and 200A go blasting through the cables any time the engine is on. Which is not the case.What the alternator is able to put out is not misleading, hence the warning of a dead battery situation. And why do you feel a need to upgrade the ground to the block? The ground on the block is on the load side. Are you reading tech manuals or forum posts for information?
Saying it 'puts out' (for example) 200A at idle, on the other hand, is misleading because it makes it sound like you turn the key and 200A go blasting through the cables any time the engine is on
I don't know what the big three are nor do I care. I've serviced and repaired linear power supplies, switching regulators, calculated step up transformers for 3 phase equipment and so on. I asked why you thought you needed to increase the ground cable to the block because you increased the output of the alternator.As to the necessity of the big three, the alternator makers themselves tell their customers to do it. Google "big three alternator" (no quotes), you'll find it everywhere. Including Crutchfield, which specializes in car audio (where a huge percentage of these alts go).
I'd love to see you work out the requirements for a running a 10k hydraulic winch and then say electric winches aren't justified. Big alternator, big batteries, big cables, big winch. That's all. DC power is simple. You can build an electrical system on your 80 that can run a 15000lb warn industrial winch with 100% duty cycle if you like. Just makes no sense.Dunno. Personally, I don't care, as I plan to run a hydraulic winch. (Also, math is not my best subject.) IMO electric winches don't justify their existence--why put that insane drain on the system when you can just go hydraulic. Sure, the engine has to be running, so what? If it's not, chances are I've got bigger problems than running a winch. YMMV.
Now this is entertaining. Ever walk out to you vehicle and find a dead battery because a door was ajar overnight. Or maybe the temps fell below 5 degrees ovenight and you needed a jump.These alternator threads provide pure reading entertainment. Who here can report instances of consistently low or dead battery issues related to real world, actual experiences? I’m not asking what math can infer, I want to read about how you winched through deep snow/ice holes/mud for an hour or more with defroster and wipers running to the bump’n base of your 10k watt stereo while the wife used the inverter to make celebratory adult beverages with ice made in your 100 qt fridge and don’t forget that absolutely every light on your rig was selected to ON. If it took less than this to kill your battery after adequate run/recovery time was allowed I’m all the more interested.
Alternator tech has vastly improved since these rigs were made. Time was, you had to drag race to get good numbers from an aftermarket alt, and most of them were overwound and subject to overheating and burnout. But you CAN now get more power in a standard-size case, AT low rpms. And a LOT more power in a bigger case. After exploring the Photoman bracket kit option (currently unavailable but on @NLXTACY's to-do list), I resolved to simplify and seek a reliable bolt-up with a good rep and no bracket needed. Turns out the best place to research this is not in 4WD forums, but car audio forums frequented by the kind of folk who drive speakers on wheels, and trigger seismographs at nearby research stations. They're also used in racing; the company does something like 90% of SCORE trucks and buggies. And a whole bunch of 1VD-FTV Cruisers in the Middle East (120-degree ambient).
Anyway, these are not your grandfather's alternators. Looks like I've landed on one of these, below. The pages just went live today; I've pasted spec sheets as well. When looking at the power curves, remember these numbers reflect ALTERNATOR rpms, not engine rpms. Ballpark, figure that's 3:1--so 2,000 alt rpms = 666 engine rpms.
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180 Amp HP High Output Alternator (Toyota Land Cruiser 4.5L)
Our HP series high-output alternators are the ultimate upgrade when you need the absolute biggest and most sophisticated high output alternator on the planet. All of our HP series alternators are designed for extreme reliability. When you need the most extreme idle output with the most...www.dcpowerinc.com
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270 Amp XP High Output Alternator (Toyota Land Cruiser 4.5L)
Our XP series high-output alternators are the ultimate upgrade when you need the absolute biggest and most sophisticated high output alternator on the planet. All of our XP series alternators are designed for one purpose, brute force idle output. When you need the most extreme idle output with...www.dcpowerinc.com
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Anyone actually purchase and install these units and can comment on their reliability?
+1 - 100% - I'm maintaining almost 600AH of storage with a vintage 90A alt.For you guys wanting better power, before you touch your alternator you should be looking at your batteries first. Switch to better battery technology. Then add a second battery. Then if after you do that you still need more power then add a bigger alternator. Power storage, how fast a battery can actually accept a charge, and how deep a battery can discharge are all more important and more impactful than upgrading to a bigger alternator that can only impact point in time power delivery.
There are a few of us running M2k.inc alternators.I have a 390A in mine M2k.inc
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390 Amp - Toyota 1HD
The SBC-T4.2-390XP is a direct bolt on high output alternator for the OEM alternator on Toyota 1HD engine. It installs in the OEM mounting location and connects directly to the vehicle's wiring harness with no modifications. Idle Output: 220 Amps Max Output: 392 Amps Regulator: Toyota 3...m2kinc.com