High-Output Alternator Options for 80 Series Land Cruisers (1 Viewer)

[slow95z]

Possible bolt in 140-145a alternator

The alternator in my 93 have way. I read about the Sequoia 150a upgrade available and needing an electrical connector and the adjuster adapter. There is a company nearby that specializes in batteries, starters, and alternators... basically nothing else. 10 years ago or so I worked in parts...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[jaymar]

What the alternator is able to put out is not misleading, hence the warning of a dead battery situation. And why do you feel a need to upgrade the ground to the block? The ground on the block is on the load side. Are you reading tech manuals or forum posts for information?

Not what I said. 'Able to put out' is not misleading. Saying it 'puts out' (for example) 200A at idle, on the other hand, is misleading because it makes it sound like you turn the key and 200A go blasting through the cables any time the engine is on. Which is not the case.

As to the necessity of the big three, the alternator makers themselves tell their customers to do it. Google "big three alternator" (no quotes), you'll find it everywhere. Including Crutchfield, which specializes in car audio (where a huge percentage of these alts go).

 

[smritte]

Saying it 'puts out' (for example) 200A at idle, on the other hand, is misleading because it makes it sound like you turn the key and 200A go blasting through the cables any time the engine is on

I agree here. You read all the time where people say "will a higher amp alternator burn out my system?" The only time you have too much, is when it doesn't fit or you overspent on something you will never use.

 

[baldilocks]

These alternator threads provide pure reading entertainment. Who here can report instances of consistently low or dead battery issues related to real world, actual experiences? I’m not asking what math can infer, I want to read about how you winched through deep snow/ice holes/mud for an hour or more with defroster and wipers running to the bump’n base of your 10k watt stereo while the wife used the inverter to make celebratory adult beverages with ice made in your 100 qt fridge and don’t forget that absolutely every light on your rig was selected to ON. If it took less than this to kill your battery after adequate run/recovery time was allowed I’m all the more interested.

 

[landtank]

As to the necessity of the big three, the alternator makers themselves tell their customers to do it. Google "big three alternator" (no quotes), you'll find it everywhere. Including Crutchfield, which specializes in car audio (where a huge percentage of these alts go).

I don't know what the big three are nor do I care. I've serviced and repaired linear power supplies, switching regulators, calculated step up transformers for 3 phase equipment and so on. I asked why you thought you needed to increase the ground cable to the block because you increased the output of the alternator.

 

[smritte]

How about the block ground can handle the 150 ish amp pull from the starter but "may" not handle the 250+ from the alternator. As you well know, it doesn't hurt to refresh a factory cable after 25 years. Some will degrade over time for various reasons. I personally don't like volt drops and very few actually know how to test for them properly.
I know some reading this build their own cables like I do. I hope your not just building positive only.

The problem with ground wires is, no one checks them. ALL of the comments on alternators say to upgrade the power feed. No one bothers with the ground. Ever seen a professional stereo company install a hug set of amps, run a 1/0 power cable and tie the ground to the body? I have, a number of times.

The three would be body, block, frame.

I agree with the statement about audio forums having the best info but wonder why we update our outdated rigs with everything new and cool except for charging systems.

This is not targeted to any single person but quite a few of the posts I read.
I don't see what all the hate is here. If someone is happy with their system, don't get a high output. If people want to use old tech they can do that too. Don't give someone crap because you don't need it, don't see a reason for it and (or) don't understand it.

If you want to learn it, look up hairpin windings. Your going to see a ton on motors. Look to alternators. If you geek out on it, look at the difference between the tri and delta windings.

 

[Somebodyelse5]

Is @jaymar seceretly electroBOOM?

 

[jaymar]

Is @jaymar seceretly electroBOOM?

Personally, I prefer cookouts. BBQ. Braai.

 

[Njck22]

Dunno. Personally, I don't care, as I plan to run a hydraulic winch. (Also, math is not my best subject. ) IMO electric winches don't justify their existence--why put that insane drain on the system when you can just go hydraulic. Sure, the engine has to be running, so what? If it's not, chances are I've got bigger problems than running a winch. YMMV.

I'd love to see you work out the requirements for a running a 10k hydraulic winch and then say electric winches aren't justified. Big alternator, big batteries, big cables, big winch. That's all. DC power is simple. You can build an electrical system on your 80 that can run a 15000lb warn industrial winch with 100% duty cycle if you like. Just makes no sense.

 

[jaymar]

As I said, YMMV. I'm sure MileMarker, Ramsey or Warn would be happy to help you out on 'system requirements.' I'd run a York, but that space is reserved for the s/c I may never find...

 

[jaymar]

Couple of Mudders already running these--180A and 270A...

(Future) Product Review and Install Assistance - High Output Alternator

Thought I would post regarding a high output alternator I picked up from a local shop to me. Pretty stoked to see how it does and will look to get it installed in the coming month or so (a lot of projects currently in the cue) and keep this updated on its performance. Thought it could add some...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[BillyGoatMTB]

Great Read

I stumbled on this thread because was thinking about rebuilding / preventive maintaining (PM) my alternator, but noticed my 97 only has 1 wire off the connector, wondering if i dont have an 80 amp and if i should upgrade.

Subed,......

 

[landtank]

These alternator threads provide pure reading entertainment. Who here can report instances of consistently low or dead battery issues related to real world, actual experiences? I’m not asking what math can infer, I want to read about how you winched through deep snow/ice holes/mud for an hour or more with defroster and wipers running to the bump’n base of your 10k watt stereo while the wife used the inverter to make celebratory adult beverages with ice made in your 100 qt fridge and don’t forget that absolutely every light on your rig was selected to ON. If it took less than this to kill your battery after adequate run/recovery time was allowed I’m all the more interested.

Now this is entertaining. Ever walk out to you vehicle and find a dead battery because a door was ajar overnight. Or maybe the temps fell below 5 degrees ovenight and you needed a jump.

There are plenty of instances where you could park a running vehicle and find that it won’t turn over the next day

My sole assertion is if you have a high amp alternator on that morning and jump the vehicle the engine will idle around 1200 rpm’s and you need to design your system to deal with whatever the max output of the alternator you choose at that rpm. And I’m talking engine rpm not alternator rpm. That would require you to determine the crank/alt pulley relationship and the true rpm’s of the alternator.

And sighting that these companies recommend that you should upgrade the ground wire is nothing more than the legal department covering their ass’s.

We drive trucks with a 4.5L engine. And the amp draw of the starter is going to be more than a 1.6l 4cylinder starter. In cold weather, a lot more.

So the ground wire on our trucks will be substantially larger for that reason. So while installing a larger alternator on a 1.6L engine will require a new ground the same alternator on our truck won’t. Even if it’s larger than stock.

Educate yourselves.

 

[gofast]

a

Alternator tech has vastly improved since these rigs were made. Time was, you had to drag race to get good numbers from an aftermarket alt, and most of them were overwound and subject to overheating and burnout. But you CAN now get more power in a standard-size case, AT low rpms. And a LOT more power in a bigger case. After exploring the Photoman bracket kit option (currently unavailable but on @NLXTACY's to-do list), I resolved to simplify and seek a reliable bolt-up with a good rep and no bracket needed. Turns out the best place to research this is not in 4WD forums, but car audio forums frequented by the kind of folk who drive speakers on wheels, and trigger seismographs at nearby research stations. They're also used in racing; the company does something like 90% of SCORE trucks and buggies. And a whole bunch of 1VD-FTV Cruisers in the Middle East (120-degree ambient).

Anyway, these are not your grandfather's alternators. Looks like I've landed on one of these, below. The pages just went live today; I've pasted spec sheets as well. When looking at the power curves, remember these numbers reflect ALTERNATOR rpms, not engine rpms. Ballpark, figure that's 3:1--so 2,000 alt rpms = 666 engine rpms.

180 Amp HP High Output Alternator (Toyota Land Cruiser 4.5L)

Our HP series high-output alternators are the ultimate upgrade when you need the absolute biggest and most sophisticated high output alternator on the planet. All of our HP series alternators are designed for extreme reliability. When you need the most extreme idle output with the most...

www.dcpowerinc.com

View attachment 3293186

270 Amp XP High Output Alternator (Toyota Land Cruiser 4.5L)

Our XP series high-output alternators are the ultimate upgrade when you need the absolute biggest and most sophisticated high output alternator on the planet. All of our XP series alternators are designed for one purpose, brute force idle output. When you need the most extreme idle output with...

www.dcpowerinc.com

View attachment 3293188

Anyone actually purchase and install these units and can comment on their reliability?

 

[ChargedSHOTaco]

Anyone actually purchase and install these units and can comment on their reliability?

I purchased and installed a DC Power Engineering 180A alternator in 2012 for my 3.4L Toyota Tacoma and it is still going strong. I've installed a 270A on my FZJ80 with dual batteries 2 years ago and my electronics absolutely love the higher charge voltage set point and current on tap.

 

[NKP Garage]

For you guys wanting better power, before you touch your alternator you should be looking at your batteries first. Switch to better battery technology. Then add a second battery. Then if after you do that you still need more power then add a bigger alternator. Power storage, how fast a battery can actually accept a charge, and how deep a battery can discharge are all more important and more impactful than upgrading to a bigger alternator that can only impact point in time power delivery.

 

[BillyGoatMTB]

What's the group's opinion on the most reliable alternator rebuild company? I don't know that I'm concerned about high output I'm more concerned about the reliability and the rebuild of my factory Toyota alternator.

I know Mr T offers reman Factory I think they're denso, but having my factory core I would like to send it to the best for reliability

 

[LandLocked93]

For you guys wanting better power, before you touch your alternator you should be looking at your batteries first. Switch to better battery technology. Then add a second battery. Then if after you do that you still need more power then add a bigger alternator. Power storage, how fast a battery can actually accept a charge, and how deep a battery can discharge are all more important and more impactful than upgrading to a bigger alternator that can only impact point in time power delivery.

+1 - 100% - I'm maintaining almost 600AH of storage with a vintage 90A alt.
Fresh brushes of course. Regulator checked good so left it alone.

 

[veiloctane]

I have a 390A in mine M2k.inc

390 Amp - Toyota 1HD | M2kinc

The SBC-T4.2-390XP is a direct bolt on high output alternator for the OEM alternator on Toyota 1HD engine. It installs in the OEM mounting location and connects directly to the vehicle's wiring harness with no modifications. Idle Output: 220 Amps Max Output: 392 Amps Regulator: Toyota 3 Pin...

m2kinc.com

 

[veiloctane]

I have a 390A in mine M2k.inc

390 Amp - Toyota 1HD | M2kinc

The SBC-T4.2-390XP is a direct bolt on high output alternator for the OEM alternator on Toyota 1HD engine. It installs in the OEM mounting location and connects directly to the vehicle's wiring harness with no modifications. Idle Output: 220 Amps Max Output: 392 Amps Regulator: Toyota 3 Pin...

m2kinc.com

There are a few of us running M2k.inc alternators.
I’ve already had mine apart and it’s mostly made with Denso parts. Bearings are bigger too. Nice billet case also aids in cooling.

It’s also a USA company so yeah support local!!!