Nothing to add, but I just wanted to say this sucks and I feel for you man! Keep positive, these kinds of issues are enough to want to dump a whole rig. Keep your chin up.
Help Please - 'Broke' 4-High During Extraction from Snow Bank (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter OptimusPrime
- Start date
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Have you pulled the wheel caps of to have a look at the flanges, if when CDL is unlocked and and in drive, if one of the cv's are spinning then it is the flange, if neither are spinning then it is more likely to be the front diff.
I just had a similar thing happen to me. The splines on one of the CV axles were stripped out at the hub flange. Drove fine with CDL engaged. Just finished replacing the axle and flange, about $125 in parts.
You can easily see if that's the issue by popping off the front dust caps like someone already mentioned, disengage CDL for a quick moment and you'll be able to see the splines spin.
You can easily see if that's the issue by popping off the front dust caps like someone already mentioned, disengage CDL for a quick moment and you'll be able to see the splines spin.
Not related to the issue.
As seen on your video, I will not shift between R and D that quick. I think your rear wheels are spinning while you go between gears.
As seen on your video, I will not shift between R and D that quick. I think your rear wheels are spinning while you go between gears.
- Thread starter
- #27
UPDATE:
I had the LC towed to the shop last night and I just heard back. Please excuse any incorrect use of terminology, but they say the culprit is the CV axles and flanges - one side has the wrong part altogether, while on the other side its installed incorrectly. This resulted in them pulling out from the hubs (I think 'hubs'?). Frustrating A) because a different third party shop gave it a clean bill of health before I bought it, and B) the quote for the job is ~$1700.
I also had them look at the shocks, which had been making a lot of noise and I suspected might be nearing the end of their useful life. They said that they're due to be replaced, and first quoted me Old Man Emu shocks at a price of $108 each, claiming that OEM shocks were the same price anyway. I remember seeing on this forum that OEMs go for about $40, and that just new OEMs can make a huge difference, so I had him double check and when he did we got that straightened out, but it got me thinking about upgrading now...
Here are some clips from the quote they sent me: I'm new - Do the prices seem reasonable? Any red flags? Any reason to pay extra for Old Man Emu? I don't have the time, tools, or space to do the work myself, so I'm pretty committed to having someone else do it... I also want to have them do an oil change and adjust the torsion bars.
Axles:
OEM Suspension:
Old Man Emu Suspension:
For Old Man Emu Suspension: Parts/Supplies: $434 Labor: $209 Tax: $44.05 Total: $687.05
This forum is an amazing resource - I would buy everyone a beer if I could!
Chris
I had the LC towed to the shop last night and I just heard back. Please excuse any incorrect use of terminology, but they say the culprit is the CV axles and flanges - one side has the wrong part altogether, while on the other side its installed incorrectly. This resulted in them pulling out from the hubs (I think 'hubs'?). Frustrating A) because a different third party shop gave it a clean bill of health before I bought it, and B) the quote for the job is ~$1700.
I also had them look at the shocks, which had been making a lot of noise and I suspected might be nearing the end of their useful life. They said that they're due to be replaced, and first quoted me Old Man Emu shocks at a price of $108 each, claiming that OEM shocks were the same price anyway. I remember seeing on this forum that OEMs go for about $40, and that just new OEMs can make a huge difference, so I had him double check and when he did we got that straightened out, but it got me thinking about upgrading now...
Here are some clips from the quote they sent me: I'm new - Do the prices seem reasonable? Any red flags? Any reason to pay extra for Old Man Emu? I don't have the time, tools, or space to do the work myself, so I'm pretty committed to having someone else do it... I also want to have them do an oil change and adjust the torsion bars.
Axles:
OEM Suspension:
Old Man Emu Suspension:
For Old Man Emu Suspension: Parts/Supplies: $434 Labor: $209 Tax: $44.05 Total: $687.05
This forum is an amazing resource - I would buy everyone a beer if I could!
Chris
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Short answer: Only go with OEM CV axles, the aftermarkets with warranty just won't get you down the trail very far. And, yes, you'll want new flanges and new CV's (at least for the broken side but pair would be better). For the prices shown you better be getting the real OEM stuff...
As for shocks it depends on your use.
Something went pop in the snow, this could not have all been pre-existing or you wouldn't have made it to the snow bank in the first place.
Hope that helps a bit.
As for shocks it depends on your use.
Something went pop in the snow, this could not have all been pre-existing or you wouldn't have made it to the snow bank in the first place.
Hope that helps a bit.
- Thread starter
- #29
I figure all this help warrants at least a picture. This was in the Uintas in July. The pup had caught his first mouse the night before. Damn plasti-dip really picks up dirt. T-Bars definitely need to be adjusted...
How much extra hp did that TRD sticker give you? I like it!
Trunk Monkey
Moderator
They're an independent shop and their LC guy is out until tomorrow, so I wouldn't hack on them too much for not knowing the price of 100 series OEM shocks off the top of their head. For the CVs, trying to save any money is going to require you to do your own investigating. It's possible that just the flanges stripped their teeth and the teeth on the CVs are in decent enough shape or could be filed. You could also go aftermarket on the CVs (like $125 ea.) but you'll be replacing them well before OEM joints, the quality is that different.
I'll kick your truck tomorrow when I drop mine off there tomorrow for ball joints.
I'll kick your truck tomorrow when I drop mine off there tomorrow for ball joints.
You can get OEM front shock for about $30 and OEM flange for $52 at Camelback toyota in Arizona. They do overnight shipping too.
2000 Toyota Land Cruiser Parts - Camelback Toyota Parts - Genuine OEM Parts - Free Shipping
[ 23 ] FRONT DRIVE AXLE / DRIVE AXLES / DRIVE AXLES / AXLE ASSY
Part Number: 4343060040
axle assy Land Cruiser
MSRP Core ? Online Price
$537.27 $0.00 $394.06
2000 Toyota Land Cruiser Parts - Camelback Toyota Parts - Genuine OEM Parts - Free Shipping
[ 12 ] FRONT SUSPENSION / FRONT SUSPENSION / BRAKE COMPONENTS / Flange
Part Number: 4342160060
flange Left
MSRP Core ? Online Price
$70.37 $0.00 $51.61
2000 Toyota Land Cruiser Parts - Camelback Toyota Parts - Genuine OEM Parts - Free Shipping
[ 23 ] FRONT DRIVE AXLE / DRIVE AXLES / DRIVE AXLES / AXLE ASSY
Part Number: 4343060040
axle assy Land Cruiser
MSRP Core ? Online Price
$537.27 $0.00 $394.06
2000 Toyota Land Cruiser Parts - Camelback Toyota Parts - Genuine OEM Parts - Free Shipping
[ 12 ] FRONT SUSPENSION / FRONT SUSPENSION / BRAKE COMPONENTS / Flange
Part Number: 4342160060
flange Left
MSRP Core ? Online Price
$70.37 $0.00 $51.61
I 2nd buying the parts on your own, and taking them to the shop. You'll find better than list price at a friendly Ih8mud vendor.
MauiUZJ
Gotta have duct tape...
Glad it didn't turn out to be a grenaded front diff. Hubs and Axles are considerably easier and less expensive to fix.
But don't let the current panacea ... keep you from upgrading to a front locker. Consider it insurance with privileges.
Flipped Bezel
Here for a good time...not a long time!
I had one CV axle/drive flange strip on my 2006 LX470 a few months back. Same problem and symptoms as you experienced except it occurred at highway speeds and sounded very alarming initially. After pulling the grease caps and finding the culprit, I ordered OEM axles and flanges from @beno who had them shipped quickly for repairs to be made.
You can likely pull the drive flange off and use a cola can or plastic cover of some sort to keep trash/water out and still use the truck for local travel with the center diff engaged until the parts arrive. I put a few hundred miles on mine in this manner until I had the time and parts to get the repairs completed. Now would also be a good time to assess front brake health and at a minimum service wheel and spindle bearings on your front end.
I decided to make it a complete front end service and swapped out my lower control arms with stock replacements and added SPC uppers that I sourced from Ben at Slee. I also replaced my tie rod ends and leaking steering rack at that time since mine was leaking. Good luck with your hundy and keep us posted on how yours comes back together.
You can likely pull the drive flange off and use a cola can or plastic cover of some sort to keep trash/water out and still use the truck for local travel with the center diff engaged until the parts arrive. I put a few hundred miles on mine in this manner until I had the time and parts to get the repairs completed. Now would also be a good time to assess front brake health and at a minimum service wheel and spindle bearings on your front end.
I decided to make it a complete front end service and swapped out my lower control arms with stock replacements and added SPC uppers that I sourced from Ben at Slee. I also replaced my tie rod ends and leaking steering rack at that time since mine was leaking. Good luck with your hundy and keep us posted on how yours comes back together.
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I just purchased a front axle and drive flange from Frontier Toyota (on line - toyotapartsdeal.com) in Valencia Ca.
Drive shaft was $374.60
Flange was $48.59
Plus they had a deal for free shipping! Maybe you can still finagle a deal for that too.
Drive shaft was $374.60
Flange was $48.59
Plus they had a deal for free shipping! Maybe you can still finagle a deal for that too.
MauiUZJ
Gotta have duct tape...
I second that. And install is a good bit easier if you don't have to replace/set up the pinion gear. Besides if you are in for both axles already, then access is mostly clear to drop the front diff....
Hopefully later today I will be able to order one of those TJM lockers for my 2 pinion front diff. Great deal at under $500.
Knowing how I drive, & what we deal with on & off road, I could use the insurance and the benefits.
Gonna leave the rear LSD, as there are many higher priorities on the list for our new 200k mi. Truck. Wonder how it will handle lava rock trails with the locker up front and the LSD rear...
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What they are charging for parts is full retail for Toyota OEM. They buy at wholesale and pocket the ~20%. Fair deal for there time and effort in my book.
I assume this a good shop, that knows the how to properly set up the wheel bearings (good idea to have done), seals & snap rings. Properly serviced front ends will never have this problem IMHO.
I assume this a good shop, that knows the how to properly set up the wheel bearings (good idea to have done), seals & snap rings. Properly serviced front ends will never have this problem IMHO.
