Help Please - 'Broke' 4-High During Extraction from Snow Bank (1 Viewer)

[OptimusPrime]

All of this feedback and support has been tremendously helpful. I've done some research and I think I know the route I want to take, but I wanted to throw this out there in case anyone might change my mind. I've shopped around and found a dealer online (iH8MUD vendor Norwalk Toyota) that will sell me OEM CV axles, flanges, and shocks for a good bit less than the quote form the shop I posted above. I'll want to make sure that the shop will install them before I order them, but I really hope they're not going to argue with me saving $500+.

Current 2-pin Diff vs. TJM Locker
I'm also paranoid now about that front diff - @MauiUZJ @spressomon @shanester - If I were to install that TJM locker up front but not run an air line or wiring to it, it would function just as a heavy-duty, non-locking front diff, correct? This is almost certainly what i'd do for now. From what I can gather, there are a few reasons to upgrade - 1) Preventative 'maintenance' 2) If the factory diff breaks, its guaranteed to be at an inopportune time 3) The replacement diff would likely cost more than the TJM locker does currently 4) I'd (eventually) have a locking front diff. Does that cover it? I know the 2-pin in the 99's is notoriously weak - do most eventually break? What is ballpark replacement cost? Thats still a considerable chunk of change for a part that, at this very moment, I don't need...

Shocks + Suspension - I'm still debating upgrading to Bilstien/OME vs. just replacing super old OEM with new OEM. I didn't want to get too far off topic with this, so I've posted it as its own thread...


Overall, I tend to want to spend the bare minimum for what will be a reliable and safe solution. Which, hey, great, but I can't tell if in this case I'm wasting an opportunity to upgrade, or being financially smart.


Thanks again,

Chris

 

[spressomon]

Chris, I ran my OEM front 2-pinion diff for over a year after taking ownership of my '99 without issue for about 14-months until I did the big re-gear, etc., and installed the ARB air locker in the front. The problem: The OEM ring gear carrier is not as stout/rigid as aftermarket lockers provide. BTW there are as many 4-pinion OEM failures as 2-pinion; IMO do it right and go with an aftermarket locker.

Yes you can, relative to ARB & TJM, install the compressor at a later time if you prefer to save a little cash now and still reap the benefit of the stronger carrier. But be sure to have your shop install the air line at the time you have the locker installed. Use a shop that is experienced with this type of work and has a solid reputation. I highly recommend Cruiser Outfitters in SLC ... worth it!

If you are an experienced driver and can keep from shock loading the front drive system you may not have an issue with the front OEM diff. Running at least a good AT tire will go a long way increasing traction for off-road work and keeping front wheel slippage to a minimum. OTOH it seems to be Russian Roulette. If you plan to wheel the truck, IMO, you would be best served with not only installing the aftermarket front locker assembly but also connecting it so it can be locked. The UZJ100's IFS, especially noticeable in steeper off-road climbing situations, will bias weight from the front to the rear, thereby substantially decreasing available traction at the front wheels (increasing the chance of wheel slippage/front driveline shock loading): A front locker is incredibly useful and valuable proportionate to what type of off-road work you want to do.

HTH.

Dan

 

[OptimusPrime]

Thanks @spressomon. I do have A/T's, and I'm having new OEM shocks installed, but I do also tend to drive a little 'enthusiastically' sometimes...

So in addition to the locker itself, what all other parts would be required? Trying to price the whole thing out before I decide...
Is it weird that this would be my first mechanical mod?

Also, I bought this plucky little thing because people on here seem to love it - Amazon.com: MasterFlow MF-1050 Air Compressor: Automotive - and it does seem pretty sturdy, especially at that price point. Think I could mount it under-hood as the air source? Or would I need a tank? I'm not too familiar with how air-lockers and on-board compressors work...

 

[spressomon]

You don't need a tank for just the air locker but the biggest challenge with the MF-1050 might be its physical size; dunno. You will need to regulate the air pressure going to the air locker; not sure what the psi range is for current ARB and TJM air lockers; but you need to be in the range from the compressor.

FWIW the ARB compressor, switch, solenoid and relay apart of the ARB air locker install are pretty much plug and play (the air locker itself though will require someone very familiar with setting up ring & pinions).

Also, depending upon budget, etc., you might also want to consider the e-locker from Harrop. I have friends including beno running it and it appears to be super robust and easier overall to install since it operates electrically instead of using air. And unlike the OEM Toyota e-locker it engages/disengages almost instantly and reliably.

 

[MauiUZJ]

(the air locker itself though will require someone very familiar with setting up ring & pinions).

@spressomon how familiar with setting up ring and pinions Would you say? I've only set up a couple of Toyota 8" diffs & a jeep diff with shims instead of adjusters...

Is it recommended to change the pinion factory crush sleeve with a solid spacer too? I have not done that.

I was just thinking I would swap the ring gear to the new carrier, & reset the gear pattern & preload on the carrier bearings.

Also, depending upon budget, etc., you might also want to consider the e-locker from Harrop. I have friends including beno running it and it appears to be super robust and easier overall to install since it operates electrically instead of using air. And unlike the OEM Toyota e-locker it engages/disengages almost instantly and reliably.

I saw the front eaton harrop locker for around $1100. Is there a better deal? For the price difference you can more than cover the compressor.

 

[spressomon]

@spressomon how familiar with setting up ring and pinions Would you say? I've only set up a couple of Toyota 8" diffs & a jeep diff with shims instead of adjusters...

Is it recommended to change the pinion factory crush sleeve with a solid spacer too? I have not done that.

I was just thinking I would swap the ring gear to the new carrier, & reset the gear pattern & preload on the carrier bearings.



I saw the front eaton harrop locker for around $1100. Is there a better deal? For the price difference you can more than cover the compressor.

I have never done it. Watched but never done it myself. For the going rate of $200-ish mainland plus rebuild kit its not worth it to me to ... learn. But having suffered through an expensive false set-up by a diff specialty shop in Sacramento I can tell you where NOT to take your's. My ass still hurts from that con job ... and its been over 10-years

 

[spressomon]

Just to add: I can vouch for ARB's super pre & post sale commitment to their customers: They are in rarified air. Can't tell you a thing about TJM's other than they did get going for about a year in the USA then abandoned the business model. But I do have a TJM dorkle if that counts for anything

 

[OptimusPrime]

Got the rig back from the shop last night. I ended up just replacing the CVs and shocks, both with OEM parts. The ride and driving characteristics are so much better with the new shocks, I should be able to live OEMs for a long time. Its a very different vehicle now. I also got the oil change and torsion bars adjusted. $600 in labor. I liked working with State Automotive, Dustin is a real Land Cruiser expert and made me feel really confident in everything I was having done, and gave me an objective opinion on the locker (I ended up passing), which I appreciate.