Having problems getting Birfield shafts splines to engage the differential splines (1 Viewer)

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POPO AGIE

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Mar 16, 2021
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Riverton, Wyoming
Need some suggestions on getting the new Birfields to engage with the splines in the differential.

I greased the axle splines with assembly grease and when I put the locker together I put grease on the those splines before I installed the differential on the axle.

Today I finished the assembly of the steering arms and the knuckles and started to install the new Birfields.

I cam feel them bottom out at the differential and had my Wife twist the pinion flange back and forth and she could feel the vibration of the shaft and I could feel the side gear moving.

I have the flats on the Birfield up and down to clear the trunnion bearings and I wiggle the shaft as much as I can and they show in the videos but it feels like the differential end is sagging just enough that the splines wont start. Until I get the Birfield in far enough to clear the trunnion bearings I cant turn the shaft. The videos make it look easy.

Any suggestions for inserting the shafts into the differential?

AS FAR AS THE BIRFIELDS ARE GOING IN NOT ENGAGING THE SPLINES.jpg
 
This isn't real technical advise and maybe not helpfully if something is wrong.

I've had the same issue multiple times and have been trying to jam it in for 15 minutes with no luck and going slightly crazy. Trying every angle, twisting it, ramming it, slowly jiggling it.

I've gone inside in a state of depression, made posts about it on the forum and watched YouTube videos. I've then gone back into the shed and tried again and have it pop in after a few minutes. I have had no idea what I did differently, but it just magically pops in.

I've had this happen to me twice and both times I was convinced it's never going to go in and something must be wrong!

Good luck, hopefully have another go and it goes in!
 
LOL, yes sometimes it goes like that.

I do turbine outages with a crew working under my direction and there are time it will not go together until it is ready.
 
This may sound counterintuitive, if you grab the birf by the stub shaft and apply slight downward pressure to raise the other end of the axle so it slides into the side gears of the dif. This does put pressure on the lip of the seal because you're using it as leverage. .
 
When you grab the birf lift the end of the birf that's towards you and push downward on the bell end to lift the far end of the axle up while pushing in.
 
When you grab the birf lift the end of the birf that's towards you and push downward on the bell end to lift the far end of the axle up while pushing in.
I was trying to do that and do understand that flexibility is working against me. I may not be pushing down hard enough. The new seals are Eco Seals so they should be for resealant than a regular seal. There doesn't seem to be very much clearance between the flats on the Birfield and the bearings of the trunnions. I never pulled the orginals out and put them back in.

I will try again tomorrow.
 
You can usually feel the axle end raise and when you release pressure you can hear the axle end clank when it drops. You might be raising it to much, idk. You just need to get lucky and find the side gear bearing/gear hole. You'll get it. Probably twist slightly too to engage the splines too.
 
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That is possible but I have the housing in a dolly and I keep moving the whole thing and either sliding or lilting off the supports.
 
He put a lot of grease where it was not needed and the wrong grease to boot. LOL

I am getting my shafts in farther than that.
 
I just pushed the outer axel down like in the video showed with out knuckles and that just pulls the axle back out until I can see the bearings and race and the spines of the inner and outer axle. It sounds like when I push it back in as far as it will go it is hitting in the knuckle ball at the back of the Birfield.
 
Stupid question, but...are you 100% certain the splines will engage? I mean, have you test fit them before they were put into the case?
 
I did check with the original side gear and it was fine. I already have the diff installed.

I ordered the shafts and locker from Cruiser Outfitters in UT.
 
I only watched from the 20 min mark and learned something. I believe if the knuckles were installed and at the point of getting axle into the diff, it would not be as simple.

Keep in mind you have to hit the difs axle bearing hole, then the side gear splines. You may need someone to hold the pinion from turning.

20230723_140325.jpg
 
I understand that I have to get the end of the axle to the same alignment as the splines to get them to engage. I am going to take a die grinder to the area around the trunnion bearings to get a little more clearance. Because it feels like the Birfield is hitting right there because the Birfield gets tight right there. The when I get more clearance I am going to grease the flats and the ball around the trunnion bearings. These Birfields may just a little bigger then stock at the flats.

First I have to plug the seal and clean out the balls and make them sanitary to keep from contaminating anything.
 
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I also cant tell yet which shoulder it is hitting yet. I have been using my die grinder and a flapper wheel on the ramps to the trunnion bearings and seems to have clearance on the top but still catching on the bottom. That maybe gravity. I am painting the Birfield flats with layout dye to check for contact.


1690149813321.jpeg
 
I guess you're doing this in hopes to get the axles installed in the 3rds? The spindle will keep the birf centered in the ball and it shouldn't allow it to make contact. I hope you're going disassemble the knuckles and birfs and clean after you're done grinding.
 
I just got confirmation for Cruiser Outfitters that the grinding and polishing is common with axle housing of this vintage because the Birfields are larger then stock in 1978.

If the Birfield is bigger and it drags and stops before the other end reaches the 3rd member there is no way to engage.
 

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