H151 Swap Information
- Thread starter Bergretter
- Start date
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To wrap the flywheel discussion up, I had it machined with a .020" step, which is the FJ60 specification. I could not find the step height listed for the FZJ80 anywhere:
Next question if you gentlemen and ladies wouldn't mind. It's clear that the tunnel will have to be modified, but how much? In this pic the transmission is about 1" from being able to be bolted up to the motor. Does this sharpie line look to be about where y'all have cut the tunnel in the past? I'm having trouble finding pictures of the completed tunnel modification and don't want to cut too much:
Thanks!!
I had a similar issue on mine and I made up measurements in my swap thread though it's for an early model 80.
I would say your sharpie markings are a bit too wide as you want enough material for the shifter boot bolts (there are 2 that go on the 5 speed shifter side of the boot). Also, taking off minimal material will help keep out the noise.
@FloridaFJ80 just did his and you can see how much material he took out on one of the pics in his thread.
It would be great if someone can put up good measurements so I can add it to my thread... My stuff is on rhd not lhd.
Thank you sir. I just flipped through his two 80 threads (80 evolved, 80 evolved 40th anniversary) and didn't see a manual transmission in either truck. Have a link for me?
My apologies, it's on this thread: https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/my-toyota-parts-search-expedition.859692/page-6
Not sure what's up with his t case shifter, it looks super high.
Yeah it does. I see it here. It looks like I don't have enough marked with sharpie to cut out!
Yeah it does. I see it here. It looks like I don't have enough marked with sharpie to cut out!
Perhaps depth wise you don't have enough, but you don't want too much width-wise. It would suck to take off too much and make the bracket a PITA when you want to bolt up the shifter insulator boot.
I just measured my shifter location on my H151F and then went under the truck and measured from engine flange surface to approximate location on the tunnel. Then cut out the diameter of the shifter cylinder + 3/4" or so.
Maybe @FloridaFJ80 can give you some input?
Gotcha! Good idea, I'll go do that this week!!
EDIT:
Switching gears, I'm taking a bit of a different approach to the change in transmission mount location:
Time to give back to this awesome thread.
This is approximately what the cut in the transmission tunnel looks like:
Instead of relocating the factory crossmember, I went the custom route. I fabricated this out of 3/8" plate to use the factory crossmember bolt hole locations with the transmission mount holes moved up to accommodate the move. Made it into a transmission + transfer case skid while in there.
Installed with reinforcement leg:
Next, I will embark on the wiring portion of this journey. Sounds like all I need to do is either jump the connectors for the NSS (or put a switch in for cruise control to work) and then create a wiring harness for the reverse light like this:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/h151-swap-information.790090/page-5#post-9170640
Wish me luck!
This is approximately what the cut in the transmission tunnel looks like:
Instead of relocating the factory crossmember, I went the custom route. I fabricated this out of 3/8" plate to use the factory crossmember bolt hole locations with the transmission mount holes moved up to accommodate the move. Made it into a transmission + transfer case skid while in there.
Installed with reinforcement leg:
Next, I will embark on the wiring portion of this journey. Sounds like all I need to do is either jump the connectors for the NSS (or put a switch in for cruise control to work) and then create a wiring harness for the reverse light like this:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/h151-swap-information.790090/page-5#post-9170640
Wish me luck!
Reviving a thread. Did you have any luck troubleshooting your ABS light after swap?
Nope.
These are the codes my customer's truck throws post-swap:
P0710
P0753
P0758
P0773
P1780
And the ABS light is on.
These are the codes my customer's truck throws post-swap:
P0710
P0753
P0758
P0773
P1780
And the ABS light is on.
Any progress made on this? What ECU is being used to control the 1fz?
NSS was figured out easy. Wired a 5 pin relay to display R light in reverse and D light when in neutral or any other gear IIRC (doesn't matter which one you do, personal preference). Installed a Venezuelan ECU and the check engine lights are off in the 1997 we did the install in. OBD2 protocol is different so it won't scan at US mechanics.
Sorry to bump an old thread...but... btw did you use the same transfer from the auto to the manual? there may be you ABS light problem...over here is easy, as we have mostly diesel and the transfer is the same...since you went from a A343F to an H151F that is something to consider...ABS has the HF2A and nonABS has the HF1A...
part number on that Venezuelan ecu?
One on the left. No CEL after the swap, but it won't scan at US inspection stations due to different OBD2 protocol standards.
How many of the ECU pins are different?
I have an early 90's 1fz MT ECU and almost every single pin is different than the AT version.
Thanks for the picture!
I have an early 90's 1fz MT ECU and almost every single pin is different than the AT version.
Thanks for the picture!
TurboDennis
SILVER Star
ECU plugs for MT and AT versions of the same year are identical.
ECU part numbers for OBD2 MT trucks are 89661-60340 and 89661-60300. For sale here
If anyone is interested, I have an almost complete kit to do the swap. All parts are factory new except the H151 tranny. They were ordered from japan and the tranny came out of a RHD cruiser that had 67k miles. Kit does not include the ECU, flywheel, LHD shift lever, and brake pedal (original can be narrowed and new pad installed). It does have an overhaul kit for the tranny as well.
You don't technically need the ECU.
does an H151 use a different input shaft per which engine it is mated to? 3F versus 1FZ versus 2UZ
is all the difference in the bellhousing of choice?
or do you need to change the input shaft to go along with the bellhousing for each engine?
is all the difference in the bellhousing of choice?
or do you need to change the input shaft to go along with the bellhousing for each engine?
