So is the front bib from a 25, or did you adapt? If adapted, can you share pics of that little project and how you are mounting the bars?
Color, I would match the other trim.
Color, I would match the other trim.
Got troopy!
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- #62
The bib is from a 25, so no adapting, just some resto work.
I did adapt a later model bib to resemble a 25 bib on my 40 using round steel bars but don't have any pics. It's the bib in my avatar. I could take some if you're interested.
I did adapt a later model bib to resemble a 25 bib on my 40 using round steel bars but don't have any pics. It's the bib in my avatar. I could take some if you're interested.
Coming along very nicely.
What make is the dash box? And does stay in place if you want to fold down the windshield?
What make is the dash box? And does stay in place if you want to fold down the windshield?
Please do take some pics of how you attached the rods to the adapted 40 bib.
Also, what about the trim rings for the headlights, what did you do there?
Also, what about the trim rings for the headlights, what did you do there?
- Thread starter
- #65
Here's a few pics of the bars adapted to a later model bib. The bars are hollow with nuts welded into the ends to receive retaining screws. There are black rubber bushings that separate the bars and screws from the bib.
Check out this link to Land Cruiser Junky's thread on the headlight trim rings here. You can buy the trim rings here.
Check out this link to Land Cruiser Junky's thread on the headlight trim rings here. You can buy the trim rings here.
- Thread starter
- #67
Thanks gents. It's fun to resurrect some old parts for a later model rig.
Fast Eddy has a great post on this with lots of info here.
The dash box is from Mark Vickers, aka Dashman. It looks like the dashbox will move a little when driving with the windshield folded down. There are only three bolts along the bottom of the box that attach it to the dash and it presses up against the windshield frame along the top for support. The box could easily be shimmed or add a couple bolts up top for additional support when the WS is folded down.
Fast Eddy has a great post on this with lots of info here.
The 47
You are doing a very nice job, 25 bib looks good. I am starting on my Aussie Hj47 Norforce next week. Hope it comes up as nice.
You are doing a very nice job, 25 bib looks good. I am starting on my Aussie Hj47 Norforce next week. Hope it comes up as nice.
Thanks for the help on the trim rings and the mounting of the 25 bars. Just wanted to confirm that you have to get the retaining ring too. Correct?
It's been quiet....Hoping for a few pictures and updates!
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- #71
Got the exhaust done which was tricky. Ended up going with a Flowmaster Big Block 70 which is the quietest muffler they offer. I did not want this to be a loud truck but it does have a good note when you step on the gas.
Got the hardtop sides on and figured out how to mount SOR slider windows in a troopy top. They don't fit out of the box, but after a little grinding to enlarge the window openings 1/8" in some spots, they pop right in. Will be nice to have good windows in this thing.
Starting back in on the cage.
Last pic - does anyone have a source for apron reflectors like the orange one here? Or does anyone have one or two of these reflectors in good shape that they'd be willing to sell?
Big thanks to Voyanger01 for loaning me a hood strip until I can find one. Thanks man!
Thanks!
Got the hardtop sides on and figured out how to mount SOR slider windows in a troopy top. They don't fit out of the box, but after a little grinding to enlarge the window openings 1/8" in some spots, they pop right in. Will be nice to have good windows in this thing.
Starting back in on the cage.
Last pic - does anyone have a source for apron reflectors like the orange one here? Or does anyone have one or two of these reflectors in good shape that they'd be willing to sell?
Big thanks to Voyanger01 for loaning me a hood strip until I can find one. Thanks man!
Thanks!
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Very awesome progress!! Looking great.
Can you post up dimensions of the sliding windows? Really the dimensions in the hardtop sides is what I'm looking for.
Thinking sliding windows in my build would be a very useful addition.
Thanks!
Can you post up dimensions of the sliding windows? Really the dimensions in the hardtop sides is what I'm looking for.
Thinking sliding windows in my build would be a very useful addition.
Thanks!
Looking great randy... I just realized that your cruiser is back at your garage...if so... Im just going to crall up on the couch and wither away ... I really need to get out 
Again... Great job!!!
Again... Great job!!!
looking awesome man.. good to see the hood strip on such a unique rig.. LOVING the color too.. can't wait to see it in person. if you need someone to drive one of your rigs to the FG this year i know how to drive stick! 
- Thread starter
- #75
ColoCruiserJeff wrote:
33 7/8" wide X 15 3/16".
This is a tight fit but they do drop in. You could remove a little more material and have the windows fit well, but I wanted them as tight as possible.
I believe the early model 40 hard top window openings with the solid pane of glass have the exact same recessed stamping as the troopy hard top. The difference seems to be the way the inner and outer skins are welded together. On the troopy, the inner and out skins do not match up as well as the 40 skins and have some overlap. Probably a production line difference. It's this overlap that needs to be ground down so the skins are exactly even.
After unsuccessfully searching for stock troopy window replacement parts, it great to now have a good solution.
After grinding the troopy rough window openings 1/16" to 1/8" wider, the final measurements to fit the SOR sliders in are:
33 7/8" wide X 15 3/16".
This is a tight fit but they do drop in. You could remove a little more material and have the windows fit well, but I wanted them as tight as possible.
I believe the early model 40 hard top window openings with the solid pane of glass have the exact same recessed stamping as the troopy hard top. The difference seems to be the way the inner and outer skins are welded together. On the troopy, the inner and out skins do not match up as well as the 40 skins and have some overlap. Probably a production line difference. It's this overlap that needs to be ground down so the skins are exactly even.
After unsuccessfully searching for stock troopy window replacement parts, it great to now have a good solution.
The only issue I see with grinding the openings is that the layers of sheet metal may easily delaminate where in some areas if it ground too much. Might be good to tack weld the edge to prevent this.
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- #77
JohnnyC:
voyager:01
1tontoy
Thanks Johnny. You should get out...and come to the Fall Gathering!Looking great randy... I just realized that your cruiser is back at your garage...if so... Im just going to crall up on the couch and wither away ... I really need to get out
Again... Great job!!!
voyager:01
Ha! The troopy is not quite there yet...but almost! Congrats on learning the stick!! lollooking awesome man.. good to see the hood strip on such a unique rig.. LOVING the color too.. can't wait to see it in person. if you need someone to drive one of your rigs to the FG this year i know how to drive stick!
1tontoy
Good thinking and thanks. I'll do something with the layers before final install of the windows.
Thanks so much for the info....I'll be ordering a pair for my 44 build!
Definitely the way to go!
Definitely the way to go!
Sweet windows! I'll hook a brotha up with a hood spear at FG.