Builds Good Times - 1992 HZJ73

[LDRF]

I also got some parts for some other projects I need to do. Front fender replacement needs all new Bolts and Nut Cases!

Nut Case: 90950-03041
Bolt: 90119-08563

When I rebuilt the knuckles, the seal surface on the drivers side was in pretty rough shape. I put it back in, but in anticipation of it leaking, I got a new axle, plus the gaskets, seals and snap rings for when/if I need to open it up again.

Front Axle Rh: 43411-60070
Snap Rings for the Birfield: 90520-27091 and 90520-28036
Drive Shaft Snap Ring: 90520-31007
Knuckle Spindle Gasket: 43435-60011
Dust Seal Gasket Gasket: 43436-60011
Axle Flange Gasket: 43422-60060
Freewheel Hub Gasket: 43531-60010
Outer Seal: 90311-62003

New seals for the FRP Top if/when I take it off

Seals over Left and Right doors: 63163-90K01
Windscreen top Seal: 63151-90K02
Full Roof Seal; 63161-90K01

A new fan/heater blower resistor so I’ll have all the fan speeds . And, a new recovery hook because I want two on my front porch, instead of just the one!

Heater Blower Resistor: 87138-90K01 (Denso part # 146810-3450)
Recovery Hook: 51961-60010
Recovery Hook Bolts: 90119-12263

 

[Broski]

Nothing like a big pile new OEM parts

 

[LDRF]

I’ve been working on a few different things. The two major items are the exhaust and bodywork. I’ve found that the road safety standards in Manitoba are pretty strict, so I have to patch a few big holes in the rockers and the back left corner.

Rusty Rockers

Salt and corrosion is EVIL!

To get clearance for working on the exhaust, I removed the running boards. On the passenger side the rivets had corroded off and the board popped off the mounts when I gave it a shake On the drivers side I removed the whole thing by removing the two front and two rear bolts.

I successfully removed 2 of 12 bolts from the running board brackets. On all of the other 10, the head twisted off with very little pressure even though I’ve been soaking it for about a week in loose-nut and put the map gas heat to it as well.

I’ll need to drill them out and tap them when they go back. I’ve thrown them in Evapo-rust and won’t look at them till next week.

Maybe someone who has a non-rust-rotted set of running boards, that they’ve taken off and replaced with rock sliders, can send them my way!!!

I’m going to leave the mounting brackets on for now.

My exhaust has been “updated” in its previous life. The resonator has been removed from the downpipe and what was most of the middle section from where the resonator was back to the flange closest to the exhaust is one piece of three welded sections. The exhaust was replaced with a Dynomax 17748 that’s now totally rotted out. I don’t think the tailpipe is original but it’s in good shape so I may reuse it.

The only remaining part of the original middle section is the back part from the flange near the exhaust to above the drive shaft. From there, two new pieces had been welded in between there and where the resonator was cut out.

I’ve removed it all. My exhaust now looks like this:

I’m thinking of adding a short flex pipe and a resonator. Thoughts????

The original back half of the middle section is in great shape so I’m going to reuse it by adding a flange that will be above the drive shaft. I’ll then fabricate “forward” from there, continuing across and over the frame then down and then forward to the new resonator. I’m going to try to use the OEM exhaust cushions if I can.

 

[JDM Journeys]

I’ve been working on a few different things. The two major items are the exhaust and bodywork. I’ve found that the road safety standards in Manitoba are pretty strict, so I have to patch a few big holes in the rockers and the back left corner.

Rusty Rockers
View attachment 3671737

Salt and corrosion is EVIL!

To get clearance for working on the exhaust, I removed the running boards. On the passenger side the rivets had corroded off and the board popped off the mounts when I gave it a shake On the drivers side I removed the whole thing by removing the two front and two rear bolts.

I successfully removed 2 of 12 bolts from the running board brackets. On all of the other 10, the head twisted off with very little pressure even though I’ve been soaking it for about a week in loose-nut and put the map gas heat to it as well.
View attachment 3671733
I’ll need to drill them out and tap them when they go back. I’ve thrown them in Evapo-rust and won’t look at them till next week.

Maybe someone who has a non-rust-rotted set of running boards, that they’ve taken off and replaced with rock sliders, can send them my way!!!

I’m going to leave the mounting brackets on for now.
View attachment 3671735

My exhaust has been “updated” in its previous life. The resonator has been removed from the downpipe and what was most of the middle section from where the resonator was back to the flange closest to the exhaust is one piece of three welded sections. The exhaust was replaced with a Dynomax 17748 that’s now totally rotted out. I don’t think the tailpipe is original but it’s in good shape so I may reuse it.

The only remaining part of the original middle section is the back part from the flange near the exhaust to above the drive shaft. From there, two new pieces had been welded in between there and where the resonator was cut out.

I’ve removed it all. My exhaust now looks like this:
View attachment 3671725
I’m thinking of adding a short flex pipe and a resonator. Thoughts????

The original back half of the middle section is in great shape so I’m going to reuse it by adding a flange that will be above the drive shaft. I’ll then fabricate “forward” from there, continuing across and over the frame then down and then forward to the new resonator. I’m going to try to use the OEM exhaust cushions if I can.

My side boards did the exact same thing! I've been putting off dealing with them for 3 years.

As far as exhaust I'm considering side piping it. Way less pipe?

 

[LDRF]

As far as exhaust I'm considering side piping it. Way less pipe?

Not a bad idea. I’ve seen a few on the forum and it certainly be less work. I don’t think it would be too loud; I’d only be worried about an incessant droning. I’ve yet to run it with the open exhaust straight off the down pipe, but with the muffler off it wasn’t too bad.

I’m inclined to keep the stock routing, with a replacement Dynomax, a flex pipe and no resonator.

 

[coldtaco]

if your engine is non turbo you will want a muffler of some kind otherwise lots of drone at hwy speed.

 

[LDRF]

I’m 109% sure I’m going to put a muffler in. I’m probably going to replaced it with what was there (that I just pulled out):

Super Turbo™ - Centered / Offset - P/N: 17748

DynoMax® Super Turbo™ performance mufflers exclusive flow director design channels exhaust flow and eliminates turbulence on most applications. The large internal flow tubes improve exhaust flow and reduce backpressure. Each muffler uses fiberglass matting technology to absorb unwanted interior...

www.dynomax.com

 

[LDRF]

I need some help/advice.

I’m removing the front fenders to replace them with new ones.

It looks like I need to remove the front valence and grill in order to access the bottom front bolts. This is easy

First question:

In order to get to the back bolts, it looks like I need to remove the doors, yes? Any advice on door removal??? Power window switch and armrest off and then door cards??? I’m assuming it’s a full removal that’s required as opposed to any short cuts to get to the bolts.​

Second question:

On the passenger side (left hand side), I removed the batteries and rear battery tray to access the bolts attaching the fender to the upper panel. Fun times with big hands, no room and sharp edges.​

​

For the right hand side, it looks like I need to remove both the air filter and fuel filter assemblies to access the access holes to get to the bolts. Did I miss anything???​

Any other sage advice from the rusty 70 fender fixing crews?

 

[JDM Journeys]

I need some help/advice.

I’m removing the front fenders to replace them with new ones.

It looks like I need to remove the front valence and grill in order to access the bottom front bolts. This is easy

First question:

In order to get to the back bolts, it looks like I need to remove the doors, yes? Any advice on door removal??? Power window switch and armrest off and then door cards??? I’m assuming it’s a full removal that’s required as opposed to any short cuts to get to the bolts.​

Second question:

On the passenger side (left hand side), I removed the batteries and rear battery tray to access the bolts attaching the fender to the upper panel. Fun times with big hands, no room and sharp edges.​

​

For the right hand side, it looks like I need to remove both the air filter and fuel filter assemblies to access the access holes to get to the bolts. Did I miss anything???​

Any other sage advice from the rusty 70 fender fixing crews?

I didn't remove the doors to get the fenders off but my (large) hands recall some serious twisting and turning. Wish I could tell you exactly how I got them off, but I believe my subconscious blocked it out to protect my sanity?

 

[LDRF]

I didn't remove the doors to get the fenders off but my (large) hands recall some serious twisting and turning. Wish I could tell you exactly how I got them off, but I believe my subconscious blocked it out to protect my sanity?

That’s good to know. I’ll limber up and perhaps self medicate and then try it.

It looks like there are two bolts: on from the top going down and one from the bottom going up. Yes???

 

[JDM Journeys]

I honestly can't remember but I did go way back in my build thread and plucked this out for you:

Post in thread 'OL'BETSY ZX: 1991 HZJ77' Builds - OL'BETSY ZX: 1991 HZJ77 - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/olbetsy-zx-1991-hzj77.1232170/post-13535090

At least you can get a (poor) view of what you're left with once you've gotten them off?

 

[JDM Journeys]

And one more...

 

[Gun Runner 5]

And one more...
View attachment 3682113

Looks like you wasted a perfectly good Eggo coupon.

 

[JDM Journeys]

Looks like you wasted a perfectly good Eggo coupon.

You could be right, but the Eggo would be long gone yet my wheel well is still there...

@LDRF POR15 is the devil's work. If you decide to dabble in that sorcery you will manage to get it on yourself somewhere so I hope you like black tattoos. My application has held up except of course where it was exposed to UV. Which it says on the can.

 

[jblueridge]

you will manage to get it on yourself

Last time, I smeared vaseline on my face as a precaution.
It worked so I only had enduring stains on my chest where it had passed through my shirt.

 

[coldtaco]

You can access the upper rear bolt with an extension with the door open. The upper two rear you can access from the hole in the bottom rear fender

 

[joekatana]

If you are going to replace the fenders then just cut the old ones off with a grinder and that gives you direct acces from the outside to the bolts that go to the upper fender , saves a lot of time this way . Run a tap a few times trought the treads on that upper fender before installing the new fender to make sure you can get them fingertight easier .

The sidepipe idea is a big no for me these days because I had several of them in the past and fumes always seem to find theire way inside the cab , exhaust goes trough the rear sticking out behind the rear bumper for me

 

[LDRF]

@JDM Journeys, @coldtaco, @joekatana

Thanks for the pointers!

I’ll try to get them off sans grinder first and only resort to cutting if frustration sets in. This will be my first attempt at bodywork, so my brilliant idea is to practice on the fenders. Either way they are coming off!!!! Chasing the threads is a great tip. I prob wouldn’t have thought about it until I got to a hard bolt!!!

Also regarding the exhaust. I’m going to run it along the stock route. I agree with @joekatana I’m not interested in the fumes or the noise with a side dump.

 

[LDRF]

You can access the upper rear bolt with an extension with the door open.

You can get to both rear bolts with the door cracked open at various angles and using triple wobbly extension fuc#ery. It went pretty easy. Easier with 1/4” socket/extensions if you have them. I only have 1/2”

For the right hand side , you need to take the air filter housing off to get to the access holes. Getting the bottom bolt off the air filter housing was a bear. I almost gave up. Took two long breaks between attempts until it came off. I moved the windshield washer reservoir out of the way as well as the fuel filter. The right side top bolts came off much easier then the left. Less corrosion on the threads.

The inners are in great shape. Only some surface rust. All the edges are nice and clean.

 

[LDRF]

I bought a tap and die set, primarily to chase bolt holes.

It’s first job was to chase the bolt holes for my new tow hook for the left side. 32 years of exposure made for some crusty threads.

New tow hook. I like the look of two.

The mounting points/frame on the right tow hook are substantially beefed up /reinforced compared to the left side. But, it should be ok to do it’s job of holding my corn broom in place.

I’ll have to make sure that any substantially hard rescue pulls use the right hook over the left.