jblueridge
SILVER Star
same Toyota part number.
Good Times - 1992 HZJ73 (5 Viewers)
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I thought I was being so clever:
When I got them they looked the same
But wait a sec... @cruisermatt pointed out to me that actual real Aisin hubs have QC stamps on the inside
These don't.
And also the amount of metal surrounding the mounting holes is insufficient. That's how we noticed them. Sometimes they split when you torque them down. And even more importantly, they are crap. My son and I took the petrol 80 to Oman and by the time we returned both hubs were bound up and threatening to blow themselves to pieces.
I won't tell you how many I bought but they are not even good paperweights. I can't sell them in good conscience as iffy generics because they say Aisin on them and some innocent person might end up with them.
When I got them they looked the same
But wait a sec... @cruisermatt pointed out to me that actual real Aisin hubs have QC stamps on the inside
These don't.
And also the amount of metal surrounding the mounting holes is insufficient. That's how we noticed them. Sometimes they split when you torque them down. And even more importantly, they are crap. My son and I took the petrol 80 to Oman and by the time we returned both hubs were bound up and threatening to blow themselves to pieces.
I won't tell you how many I bought but they are not even good paperweights. I can't sell them in good conscience as iffy generics because they say Aisin on them and some innocent person might end up with them.
jblueridge
SILVER Star
So they recycled the Toyota boxes?
very clever
very clever
- Thread starter
- #64
I spent a few hours prepping parts for reassembly of the front knuckles. The gaskets were still stuck on various parts. I bought a carbide scraper to tackle the job.
They work very well!
I cleaned up all of the mating surfaces on the knuckles, hubs and spindles.
I spent a little more time on the axle ends with some sandpaper. There were no deep scratches or pitting. I also got the last remnants of grease cleaned out. They look shiny and new!
They work very well!
I cleaned up all of the mating surfaces on the knuckles, hubs and spindles.
I spent a little more time on the axle ends with some sandpaper. There were no deep scratches or pitting. I also got the last remnants of grease cleaned out. They look shiny and new!
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- Thread starter
- #65
The hubs cleaned up really well. It took some time to chase out all of the hub stud holes. A couple were filled with goop. While cleaning I noticed what I expect are the casting dates.
Casting dates on the knuckle housings too:
All signs lead to an end of Feb, early March 1992 assembly date.
Casting dates on the knuckle housings too:
All signs lead to an end of Feb, early March 1992 assembly date.
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- Thread starter
- #66
I got an order from megazip delivered today. It left their warehouse in Japan late Wed and I picked it up today at noon! 36 hours door to door.
It’s all of the hard lines for the front calipers and axle:
I’ll do some more front axle/hub prep/assembly this weekend. I’m thinking I’m going to need new CVs/Birfields as mine feel a little crunchy and stiff. This is my first foray into these things. Any pointers on how I determine if they are good or bad?
The long axle seal surface is perfect. The short axle is a little (lot) rough on the seal surface:
Any suggestions on replacement axles and birfs? I’m up here in Canada, so parts from the US and elsewhere come with a USD exchange premium of 35% plus Canadian sales tax premium of 15% and 8.5% duty if parts are not US made. A total of 69% premium.
It’s all of the hard lines for the front calipers and axle:
- Brake tube 3 - from the RH soft line to the junction/way on the diff. I could not figure out which of the two to order, and since I was not able to find someone to talk to and since they were an averge of $7 USD, I got both. If someone knows the difference, please tell me. I’m expecting one to fit perfectly!
- Tube, Front Brake, No.3: 47314-60190
- [08.1991 - 05.1993] HZJ73,77,PZJ7# ｱﾘ(*DL)
- Tube, Front Brake, No.3: 47314-60210
- [01.1990 - 05.1993] FJ75,HZJ7#,PZJ7#
- Tube, Front Brake, No.3: 47314-60190
- Tube, Front Brake, No.4: 47315-60310
- LH side soft line to the junction/way
- Tube, Wheel Cylinder, Front Rh No.1: 47341-60031
- RH caliper to the soft line
- Tube, Wheel Cylinder, Front Lh No.1: 47343-60021
- LH caliper to the soft line
- Bumper Sub-Assy, Rear Spring: 48306-60050
- BOLT: 90119-08834 * 2
- Steel: 90430- 18008
- Aluminum: 12157-10010
I’ll do some more front axle/hub prep/assembly this weekend. I’m thinking I’m going to need new CVs/Birfields as mine feel a little crunchy and stiff. This is my first foray into these things. Any pointers on how I determine if they are good or bad?
The long axle seal surface is perfect. The short axle is a little (lot) rough on the seal surface:
Any suggestions on replacement axles and birfs? I’m up here in Canada, so parts from the US and elsewhere come with a USD exchange premium of 35% plus Canadian sales tax premium of 15% and 8.5% duty if parts are not US made. A total of 69% premium.
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The inner axle seal look buggered and that’s what keeps gear oil out of the knuckle
So that should be replaced.
The birfild should move smoothly it can be taking apart cleaned greased and put back together.
But I’m guessing that they should just be replaced.
Especially since you’ve gone through everything else.
So that should be replaced.
The birfild should move smoothly it can be taking apart cleaned greased and put back together.
But I’m guessing that they should just be replaced.
Especially since you’ve gone through everything else.
I generally make it a habit of replacing the axle seals if I am doing a knuckle rebuild.I got an order from megazip delivered today. It left their warehouse in Japan late Wed and I picked it up today at noon! 36 hours door to door.
It’s all of the hard lines for the front calipers and axle:
A rear suspension bump stop and bolts, as one of mine is completely missing:
- Brake tube 3 - from the RH soft line to the junction/way on the diff. I could not figure out which of the two to order, and since I was not able to find someone to talk to and since they were an averge of $7 USD, I got both. If someone knows the difference, please tell me. I’m expecting one to fit perfectly!
- Tube, Front Brake, No.3: 47314-60190
- [08.1991 - 05.1993] HZJ73,77,PZJ7# ｱﾘ(*DL)
- Tube, Front Brake, No.3: 47314-60210
- [01.1990 - 05.1993] FJ75,HZJ7#,PZJ7#
- Tube, Front Brake, No.4: 47315-60310
- LH side soft line to the junction/way
- Tube, Wheel Cylinder, Front Rh No.1: 47341-60031
- RH caliper to the soft line
- Tube, Wheel Cylinder, Front Lh No.1: 47343-60021
- LH caliper to the soft line
Plus some extra aluminum and steel drain plug gaskets:
- Bumper Sub-Assy, Rear Spring: 48306-60050
- BOLT: 90119-08834 * 2
View attachment 3554370
- Steel: 90430- 18008
- Aluminum: 12157-10010
I’ll do some more front axle/hub prep/assembly this weekend. I’m thinking I’m going to need new CVs/Birfields as mine feel a little crunchy and stiff. This is my first foray into these things. Any pointers on how I determine if they are good or bad?
The long axle seal surface is perfect. The short axle is a little (lot) rough on the seal surface:
View attachment 3554383
Any suggestions on replacement axles and birfs? I’m up here in Canada, so parts from the US and elsewhere come with a USD exchange premium of 35% plus Canadian sales tax premium of 15% and 8.5% duty if parts are not US made. A total of 69% premium.
If the scratches on the axle are not too deep, you may be able to smooth it out with some Emory cloth. Otherwise the labour alone would make it prudent to replace, otherwise it will chew up the new seal, and you will be back in there all over again anyways. All the best!
If you can't find a replacement, maybe look into flam deposition welding or even simple brazing to build it up and machine down again. Seems like it might be an option especially if all that is going on there is a seal surface.I got an order from megazip delivered today. It left their warehouse in Japan late Wed and I picked it up today at noon! 36 hours door to door.
It’s all of the hard lines for the front calipers and axle:
A rear suspension bump stop and bolts, as one of mine is completely missing:
- Brake tube 3 - from the RH soft line to the junction/way on the diff. I could not figure out which of the two to order, and since I was not able to find someone to talk to and since they were an averge of $7 USD, I got both. If someone knows the difference, please tell me. I’m expecting one to fit perfectly!
- Tube, Front Brake, No.3: 47314-60190
- [08.1991 - 05.1993] HZJ73,77,PZJ7# ｱﾘ(*DL)
- Tube, Front Brake, No.3: 47314-60210
- [01.1990 - 05.1993] FJ75,HZJ7#,PZJ7#
- Tube, Front Brake, No.4: 47315-60310
- LH side soft line to the junction/way
- Tube, Wheel Cylinder, Front Rh No.1: 47341-60031
- RH caliper to the soft line
- Tube, Wheel Cylinder, Front Lh No.1: 47343-60021
- LH caliper to the soft line
Plus some extra aluminum and steel drain plug gaskets:
- Bumper Sub-Assy, Rear Spring: 48306-60050
- BOLT: 90119-08834 * 2
View attachment 3554370
- Steel: 90430- 18008
- Aluminum: 12157-10010
I’ll do some more front axle/hub prep/assembly this weekend. I’m thinking I’m going to need new CVs/Birfields as mine feel a little crunchy and stiff. This is my first foray into these things. Any pointers on how I determine if they are good or bad?
The long axle seal surface is perfect. The short axle is a little (lot) rough on the seal surface:
View attachment 3554383
Any suggestions on replacement axles and birfs? I’m up here in Canada, so parts from the US and elsewhere come with a USD exchange premium of 35% plus Canadian sales tax premium of 15% and 8.5% duty if parts are not US made. A total of 69% premium.
jblueridge
SILVER Star
Ever used a Speedi Sleeve?
- Thread starter
- #71
I have all new seals and bearings going in.
Pretty much every consumable is being replaced.
Once I got the axle and birfs cleaned up and inspected I noticed the bad surface of the short axle where the oil seal rides. That’s why I think I should/need to replace it.
When I move the birfs around they are not moving very smooth or freely. That’s why I think I should/need to replace them.
Toyota axles are available at $110 (Right side 43411-60070) and $142 (Left side 43412-60100) from partsouq. A Speedi-Sleeve could be an option although the width is only 8mm, so prob won’t cover enough of the surface to allow for axle shaft movement. The sealing surface on the axle is prob 20mm wide.
Toyota birfs (43405-60040) are too many $$$s, if available. I’m looking for suggestions on replacement birfs. Brands, part numbers, et cetera. Partsouq has HDK (part #TO-11) for $50. Has anyone used/installed the HDKs?
Pretty much every consumable is being replaced.
Once I got the axle and birfs cleaned up and inspected I noticed the bad surface of the short axle where the oil seal rides. That’s why I think I should/need to replace it.
When I move the birfs around they are not moving very smooth or freely. That’s why I think I should/need to replace them.
Toyota axles are available at $110 (Right side 43411-60070) and $142 (Left side 43412-60100) from partsouq. A Speedi-Sleeve could be an option although the width is only 8mm, so prob won’t cover enough of the surface to allow for axle shaft movement. The sealing surface on the axle is prob 20mm wide.
Toyota birfs (43405-60040) are too many $$$s, if available. I’m looking for suggestions on replacement birfs. Brands, part numbers, et cetera. Partsouq has HDK (part #TO-11) for $50. Has anyone used/installed the HDKs?
jblueridge
SILVER Star
It would be crazy to do a knuckle rebuild and not replace the axle seal
- Thread starter
- #74
$141.28 - both axles and 2 birfs, $101.93 with only the short axle and 2 birfs. All amounts in USD.
For peace of mind and you’ve done such a thorough job already I would just replace them all you’ll be good for another 25 years keep the old ones for spares 
- Thread starter
- #76
Shipping from Cruiser Teq is similar to my plce. I could ship to Pembina ND and pick it up there ... A three hour, 115km, round trip. Shipping would be $30 for the 2 birfs only, plus gas and the parcel pick up fee. I did not find axles on the Cruiser Teq site, but I'm sure if I contacted Kurt and crew @cruiseroutfit they could get me sorted.
- Thread starter
- #77
I sorted my “which brake tube #3” problem using the “which one of these is not like the other” method.
My 1992 HZJ73 uses Tube, Front Brake, No.3: 47314-60190 for the following applications:[08.1991 - 05.1993] HZJ73, 77, PZJ7# ｱﾘ(*DL).
So, I have a spare Tube, Front Brake, No.3: 47314-60210 for the following applications: [01.1990 - 05.1993] FJ75, HZJ7#, PZJ7#. If you happen to be in Manitoba and need one, PM me
I don’t understand how to “read” the differences between the two applications. That may be where the human interface comes in to help. If anyone has the knowledge to share, it’s probably a separate thread!!!
My 1992 HZJ73 uses Tube, Front Brake, No.3: 47314-60190 for the following applications:[08.1991 - 05.1993] HZJ73, 77, PZJ7# ｱﾘ(*DL).
So, I have a spare Tube, Front Brake, No.3: 47314-60210 for the following applications: [01.1990 - 05.1993] FJ75, HZJ7#, PZJ7#. If you happen to be in Manitoba and need one, PM me
I don’t understand how to “read” the differences between the two applications. That may be where the human interface comes in to help. If anyone has the knowledge to share, it’s probably a separate thread!!!
- Thread starter
- #78
I also completed some other tasks. I replaced the rear transfer case seal (Part number: 90311-48010: Seal, Oil (For Output Shaft Retainer): [01.1990 - 05.1993] FJ75,HZJ7#,LJ7#,PZJ7# 外径＝６). I used a large bearing race to drive it in flush.
New nut torqued and staked.
And the drive shaft installed to the flange.
When I changed the rear pinion seal (90311-38047) I needed to get a new pinion nut. The new nut (90179-22016) supersedes the old nut (90179-22011). The new nut is thicker then the old. Here is a pic of the two with the new on the left and old one with the washer on the right.
You can see the difference in thickness. I was a little stumped at first, but after some googling and reading (Repair Manual Supplement got Chassis & Body - Aug 1999 - Pub RM730E) I figured out that you install the new nut without the washer. The supplement shows only the nut and no washer. This 80 Series thread also validates it:
Rear pinion flange nut part number 90179-22011 has been superceded to 90179-22016 - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/rear-pinion-flange-nut-part-number-90179-22011-has-been-superceded-to-90179-22016.1318478/
It wound on the same number of turns as the old one. I tightened it up, staked it, and reinstalled the drive shaft.
All of my leaking drive train seals are replaced. I just need to fill the transfer case with new oil and the rear end mechanicals are done!
New nut torqued and staked.
And the drive shaft installed to the flange.
When I changed the rear pinion seal (90311-38047) I needed to get a new pinion nut. The new nut (90179-22016) supersedes the old nut (90179-22011). The new nut is thicker then the old. Here is a pic of the two with the new on the left and old one with the washer on the right.
You can see the difference in thickness. I was a little stumped at first, but after some googling and reading (Repair Manual Supplement got Chassis & Body - Aug 1999 - Pub RM730E) I figured out that you install the new nut without the washer. The supplement shows only the nut and no washer. This 80 Series thread also validates it:
Rear pinion flange nut part number 90179-22011 has been superceded to 90179-22016 - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/rear-pinion-flange-nut-part-number-90179-22011-has-been-superceded-to-90179-22016.1318478/
It wound on the same number of turns as the old one. I tightened it up, staked it, and reinstalled the drive shaft.
All of my leaking drive train seals are replaced. I just need to fill the transfer case with new oil and the rear end mechanicals are done!
Nice work !
- Thread starter
- #80
We had a long weekend last and decent temps and I spent two days working on Good Times. Between the leaky wipers and seals, and a power steering fluid leak, the front axle was coated with a dense cake of fine sandy dirt and grease. I decided to spend a bunch of time cleaning and scraping it all off. The brake backing plates were especially bad with the addition of brake dust to the mix. Four hours later things were looking good. I really wish I had a photo of the shovel full of crud I scraped off! I only have an after shot of the backing plates.
That was enough work for the day! Starting at the crack of noon didn’t help
The next day I started by installing the axle seals and all the bearing races into the knuckles and hubs. I have Koyo bearings all around.
I didn’t feel like greasing things up and assembling knuckles so decided I’d play with the parking brake to see if I could get them adjusted better. I couldn’t seem to get a good bite on the right rear, so I took the rotor off to inspect things. As I took the rotor off, a spring cup dropped out. Hmmmm, and … WTF!
The front shoes retainer spring was off and the pin bent at a 30 degree angle. I pulled the left side rotor off and it was a similar situation. The front spring was in place but the pin was bent as well. Double WTF!
After consulting a couple of YouTube vids (thanks to @OTRAMM and Douglas Green) I realized the Factory Service Manual has the front and rear pins reversed. The pic shows the crooked pin with the rear shoe and the straight pin with the front.
This is wrong. The crooked pin has to go with the front shoe so the lever has clearance when you pull the cable. I had the straight pin with the front shoe (as shown) and the lever bent the pin.
I’m glad I figured this out, but am NOT looking forward to reassembly. I CURSE the engineers that designed this parking brake. I did not have the constitution for an hour or two of finger torture that reassembly entails, so I packed it in. It will be a future problem once I get some new pins.
That was enough work for the day! Starting at the crack of noon didn’t help
The next day I started by installing the axle seals and all the bearing races into the knuckles and hubs. I have Koyo bearings all around.
I didn’t feel like greasing things up and assembling knuckles so decided I’d play with the parking brake to see if I could get them adjusted better. I couldn’t seem to get a good bite on the right rear, so I took the rotor off to inspect things. As I took the rotor off, a spring cup dropped out. Hmmmm, and … WTF!
The front shoes retainer spring was off and the pin bent at a 30 degree angle. I pulled the left side rotor off and it was a similar situation. The front spring was in place but the pin was bent as well. Double WTF!
After consulting a couple of YouTube vids (thanks to @OTRAMM and Douglas Green) I realized the Factory Service Manual has the front and rear pins reversed. The pic shows the crooked pin with the rear shoe and the straight pin with the front.
This is wrong. The crooked pin has to go with the front shoe so the lever has clearance when you pull the cable. I had the straight pin with the front shoe (as shown) and the lever bent the pin.
I’m glad I figured this out, but am NOT looking forward to reassembly. I CURSE the engineers that designed this parking brake. I did not have the constitution for an hour or two of finger torture that reassembly entails, so I packed it in. It will be a future problem once I get some new pins.
