93 HZJ73 power window stopped working (4 Viewers)

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Aug 25, 2016
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Location
Victoria, BC
I had an issue yesterday where the power driver side window would not work but the passenger side would. I assumed it wasn't a blown fuse because the passenger window still worked. When I try to operate the window you can hear the switch "trying" so it seems like it's getting power. I also think the relay is working because doesn't the passenger side power window needs the relay to operate correctly?

I pulled off the switch and cleaned the contacts very well and I thought it was going to be an easy fix. But no... it still doesn't work. :(. My last thought is a bad window regulator. Is that a good guess or am I missing something? If I need a new window regulator, I don't have a part number for it. It has to be 24 volt but I can't find it anywhere in my searches. Does anyone have a part number for a power window regulator for a 93 HZJ73?

Cheers
Jeremy

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You can find your specific rig here:
Clicking on it will take you blow ups of basically every part on the vehicle. The doors are near the bottom.

There are right and left hand part numbers. As to left and right side relays, these will be labeled. If you hear the relay click then it's working. Pretty sure each side has its own relay but I may be wrong, mine have all been crank-up.

Put a multi meter on your wires/plug coming from the truck to make sure you actually need a ($300 - $400) regulator motor, or maybe have a friend do this if you don't feel comfortable with it. Cleaning the solder points that you see on the back of the circuit board doesn't do anything, those aren't actually electrical "contacts" in the sense you mean. If you flip that board over and you see a burnt out area, then you may have found your problem. Individual components and contacts on the other side of the board can fail/burn out and can be replaced, but that's getting above my pay grade.
 
You can find your specific rig here:
Clicking on it will take you blow ups of basically every part on the vehicle. The doors are near the bottom.

There are right and left hand part numbers. As to left and right side relays, these will be labeled. If you hear the relay click then it's working. Pretty sure each side has its own relay but I may be wrong, mine have all been crank-up.

Put a multi meter on your wires/plug coming from the truck to make sure you actually need a ($300 - $400) regulator motor, or maybe have a friend do this if you don't feel comfortable with it. Cleaning the solder points that you see on the back of the circuit board doesn't do anything, those aren't actually electrical "contacts" in the sense you mean. If you flip that board over and you see a burnt out area, then you may have found your problem. Individual components and contacts on the other side of the board can fail/burn out and can be replaced, but that's getting above my pay grade.
Thanks for the help, I was going to try to remove the circuit board but I didn't want to break it. I thought I was doing a good job, lol.
 
Yea this is an easy diagnosis….meter the wire on the window motor, hit the switch. Assuming you meter the wire correctly, you should see 12v, if not, switch/wiring issue. If you do see 12v, motor issue.
I will test it tomorrow like you suggested. Thanks for the help, hopefully the motor isn't f'd up!
 
Hello,

Usually, the switch fails before the motor does. It is a safety feature of sorts.





Juan
 
I didn't test the motor but the switch looks pretty used and I when I took it apart some of the contacts fell out. I'm going to clean the contacts but I have no clue how the contacts go back together. The top left is the passenger window, the bottom left is the driverside window. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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Hello,

Top left goes to upper left on the switch assembly. Top right goes below. Use the carbon buildup as a match mark.

Bottom left and bottom right go to lower left on the switch assembly.

The buttons balance over the contacts. It is a pain to put them back properly below the button, and not really worth the effort.

Judging by the amount of carbon buildup in your switch, it is likely it gave up the ghost. You can clean the carbon and put it back together. It will work a few times before failing again.

Ask me how I know.

It is time to replace your switch assembly.





Juan
 
I got it to roll down but it won't go up. I took the switch apart and used the circuit board alone to try to roll up the window but it didn't work. Does this mean that the motor is f'd or is the circuit board part f'd? Is there a way I can manually roll up the window? Thanks for the help!
 
Hello,

It means that the switch cannot close the circuit for the motor to roll up the window.

The motor is not stuffed yet. However, a current flow from a switch that gave up the ghost can kill it.

No, there is no way to roll up the window manually.

Carbon buildup eventually makes the springs' surface nonconductive and the circuit cannot close. Thus, there is no current flow to the motor.

It is better to get a new switch.





Juan
 
Hello,

It means that the switch cannot close the circuit for the motor to roll up the window.

The motor is not stuffed yet. However, a current flow from a switch that gave up the ghost can kill it.

No, there is no way to roll up the window manually.

Carbon buildup eventually makes the springs' surface nonconductive and the circuit cannot close. Thus, there is no current flow to the motor.

It is better to get a new switch.





Juan
Ok thanks for the help Juan! I'll order a new switch, at least that's easier than changing the motor.
 
I tried to find a new one to buy but I had no luck on my search. Anybody know the part number? I has to be 24 volt. Or maybe someone will sell me a used one?
 

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