Builds Good Times - 1992 HZJ73

[LDRF]

Also, flap disc was amazing when I was tackling rear quarters...
View attachment 3752915

I have a 6 pack of flap disks and a stack of cutting wheels!

 

[Felde]

The right door looks like it’s reinforced for a spare tire mount. There are two vertical brackets inside. How do I tell for sure?

Hi
Thre are two variants of spare tire mounts to the door: For the wheel being mounted outside or inside.
The outside variant has holes in the door skin, that allow bolts to go into the enforcement inside the door to mount the carrier bracket.
The inside variant has two nutserts in the door frame, between window and doorcard.
Not sure, but this variant may only exist with the removable doortops.
Remove the door cards and look at the reinforcement. With wheel carrier, the reinforcement is a 3D bracket between the outside door structure (holding the skin) and the inside door structure (where doorcard is attached). I have the variant for the wheel mounted inside. The reinforcement roughly has the shape of a truncated pyramid, located in the cavity between the inside and outside door structure. Sorry, I don't have pictures.
Whatever your structure looks like: In order to distribute forces, it has to connect the inside and outside door structure.
Cheers Ralf

 

[LDRF]

Hi
Thre are two variants of spare tire mounts to the door: For the wheel being mounted outside or inside.
The outside variant has holes in the door skin, that allow bolts to go into the enforcement inside the door to mount the carrier bracket.
The inside variant has two nutserts in the door frame, between window and doorcard.
Not sure, but this variant may only exist with the removable doortops.
Remove the door cards and look at the reinforcement. With wheel carrier, the reinforcement is a 3D bracket between the outside door structure (holding the skin) and the inside door structure (where doorcard is attached). I have the variant for the wheel mounted inside. The reinforcement roughly has the shape of a truncated pyramid, located in the cavity between the inside and outside door structure. Sorry, I don't have pictures.
Whatever your structure looks like: In order to distribute forces, it has to connect the inside and outside door structure.
Cheers Ralf

Thanks Ralf (@Felde)
I took a better photo of the structure inside, from the latch side.

It looks pretty beefy. The round rusty area looks like a plus was welded in, just above and to the right of the tab with a thread on it. Is there a bump stop or something that might go there? It’s about 30cm inboard of the latch, almost right behind the inside handles screw. I’ll troll through the forum to see if I can find a good picture of the door from the outside, but with the spare tire removed as the parts diagrams don’t show much.

Maybe a wiper or spray nozzle?

 

[Felde]

Hi
No idea what that rusty / welded spot other thread might be. That looks way different than my door. But mine has detachable doortop and is for inside wheel mount.
The spare wheel bracket needs to bold straight through the door skin into the reinforcement. The door skin is way to flimsy too give any support. For that, the reinforcement needs to tough the door skin; else, it would produce a dent.
The only point in your pic, where that is given, is the spot between the black cable and the connector
Those other brackets to me do not look sturdy enough to carry the weight of a heavy tire + the dynamic forces.
To me, this door doesn't look like it's reinforced for a spare wheel carrier, but I actually can't tell.
Good Luck Ralf

 

[LDRF]

The tabs with the thread holes does not touch the door skin. The support inside the door is flush up against the door skin at the top and bottom and is slightly X shaped. It is almost as wide as the interior panel between the speaker hole and the access panel.

I’m thinking I’m good to go, but am hoping I can get some validation by someone with the OEM carrier.

 

[JuanJ]

Hello,

Yes, spare tire carrier deletion is commonplace in JDM trucks.

75/78 Series Troopies have rear doors with or without bulkheads for the tire carriers. Usually, trucks with a single fuel tank carry the spare below the frame in the rear. Trucks with double fuel tanks have the spare tire mounted on the rear door.

That plugged hole is for the rear washer nozzle.

This is what LX 73 Series rear doors look like.

I guess the PO got a truck without a spare tire carrier and then hit something hard. The same PO tried to cover the mess with bondo.

Regarding the missing part on the left rear side, you should take the chance to check the seal of your rear window. In old age, they leak through the lower rear corner into the floor. Furthermore, that corner has a drain plug. Over time, water accumulates there and contributes to corrosion.






Juan

 

[LDRF]

Thanks for the feedback @JuanJ
I have new seals for the windows on my FRP top.
I talked to the PO’s nephew. He said his aunt backed into a telephone pole resulting in the bumper and rear door damage.

The bondo work was prob done in Japan when the Good Times theme was done, along with the delete of the rear license plate light and spare tire mount. I do have a rear wiper/washer switch and fluid container in the back behind the panel on the right. The hose is terminated inside the door. I suspect that it was all deleted at the same time.

 

[LDRF]

It’s been slow going for me on the bodywork. I’m a little overwhelmed with it all, so have been doing odds and ends before I get off my ass and start cutting metal.

One odd end I’ve checked off the list are the sway bar end links. The stock ones were too short so I ordered the longest ones from Energy Suspension: 9.8121G

I used the Toyota cushions and retainers. Looks better now.

 

[LDRF]

I haven’t really done much since the summer, as you can see from my posts. Winter has set in and we have had a few bouts of cold (-20 to -30 Celsius lows). Last weekend, a warm front came through with highs around freezing (that’s 0 for our F friends ), so I decided I needed to get off my ass and do something.

I haven't had it running since sometime in July when I pulled a bunch of parts out of the engine bay to get the fenders off. I was a little aphresensive about it not starting as we all know that when things sit around, they decide to stop working. I hooked up the batteries and gave the fuel primer a few pumps; it only took 5 or 6 till it was rock hard. That was good news. I inspected the fuel bay to make sure nothing loose was kicking around, hopped in, glowed it twice and turned the key.

BAM! Fired up immediately!!! Whooooo Hooooooo! It ran pretty rough for about 20 to 30 seconds before it smoothed out and I was able to idle it up. I ran it at various RPMs for about 40 minutes until the temp came up and the coolent started flowing. The only problem is a stumble between 2200 and 2500 RPM. Other then that, it's great! I felt pretty good to get it going and hear it running again.

Does anyone have any idea why it might be rough at that RPM?

 

[Combat Wombat]

The 2200 stumble may be related to air leaking into fuel lines, it seems there a few locations that dry up then leak once the fuel is passed back through.
Hope it works out for you though. It will be so good once you figure out what is causing it!

 

[LDRF]

The 2200 stumble may be related to air leaking into fuel lines

I'll run a lenght of clear hose out of the fuel filter if I need to get into it. It runs nice and smooth below and above the rough RPM, so I'm not super concerned right now. It's odd that it's only at a very narrow rev band.

 

[LDRF]

Back in November Megazip had 20% off, so I picked up a bunch of parts. They put the label on the box early Monday morning in Japan and it arrived in Manitoba at 11am on Tuesday. A Christmas miracle!

Door seals, a bunch of bolts for the side step, rubber plugs for the body, and a bunch of the little plastic screw/bolt inserts for the body. Also a million of the little plastic attachy-thingies for the door and interior cards/panels.
I like to pick up some small “feel good” simple improvement parts, in this case the hood bumpers and nuts; Bumper, Hood, Front Toyota, 53382-60011 and NUT HEXAGON Toyota, 90170-08034

I have a little bit of rust in the back left corner, so I ordered a body part that seemed correct in the diagram. I’m not quite sure, but, I’ll see. Part number 61746-90K00 - Reinforcement, Back Door Opening, Lower Lh, Toyota. I thought it is the corner piece that curves down. Maybe not.

They have a 20% sale on right now, for Christmas Day, so maybe I’ll pick up a few other random body parts - LOL

 

[LDRF]

I’ve cut the rust out from the back two corners at the back. I used a cut off wheel on my grinder and a Dremel for two of the tight areas. I think I’ve got it to where I can fabricate the pieces and weld them in.

Left corner:

Right:

The corner piece that I bought was the inside support piece that most of the parts are welded to. So, not the right part. I now have a spare 61746-90K00 - Reinforcement, Back Door Opening, Lower Lh

 

[Combat Wombat]

Wow your repairs and attention to detail really inspire me to actually get back into the workshop....

 

[Blue1]

I am following this closely, this is what i will be tackling tomorrow ! It looks like the left side on yours has more rust than the right side. I have exactly the same situation. This is great motivation for me.

 

[LDRF]

Both my taillight buckets have rust holes that will be a pain in the ass to access. I don't want to cut an access hole in the fender or grind for hours with a Dremel. I wish I had air and a small die or angle grinder. But, that's next year's problem

We've got (at least - LOL) three rust busting threads going ... mine, @Blue1 and @H0ki3

Keep up the good work! It's motivating me too.

 

[JDM Journeys]

Both my taillight buckets have rust holes that will be a pain in the ass to access. I don't want to cut an access hole in the fender or grind for hours with a Dremel. I wish I had air and a small die or angle grinder. But, that's next year's problem

We've got (at least - LOL) three rust busting threads going ... mine, @Blue1 and @H0ki3

Keep up the good work! It's motivating me too.

Keep fighting the good fight, dude. It'll all be worth it when that sweet rig is rolling down the trail. You are getting there...

 

[Musafir]

s*** i thought i had rust problems

 

[LDRF]

s*** i thought i had rust problems

Not really problems, but opportunities to buy tools and learn how to do some bodywork and welding

 

[H0ki3]

I’ve cut the rust out from the back two corners at the back. I used a cut off wheel on my grinder and a Dremel for two of the tight areas. I think I’ve got it to where I can fabricate the pieces and weld them in.

Left corner:
View attachment 3804347
Right:
View attachment 3804348
The corner piece that I bought was the inside support piece that most of the parts are welded to. So, not the right part. I now have a spare 61746-90K00 - Reinforcement, Back Door Opening, Lower Lh

How are your cab mounts? Mine are basically gone. Floor in better shape than yours tho. Someone hacked at sheet metal in the wheel wells in mine to fit 35s in Japan. That let the salt and water in.