Front Drive Shaft / Differential leak; Oil Seal & dust cover replacement (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter 2001LC
- Start date
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@2001LC , I think @lesgarten is working on the axle tube end, not the passenger side diff seal—I believe you still use the oak stock for that side too, but I think he’s asking when to stop pushing the seal in.
I’ll take a stab at this, having just done this twice—once wring and once right...
After seating by hand, I just used a big punch and worked my way around—the seal shoulder needs to be lower than the tube outer edge, and the seal inner lip needs to be just barely proud of or flush with the outer lip of the axle tube. There is (oddly) no shoulder that it rests against, which I assumed there would be and I just whacked the first one in and then Realizernid home too deep. Tried to be very careful with a seal puller and get it backed out a bit but I must have boogered it up, because it leaked.
I’d buy an new seal rather than trying to back yours out, based on my experience—-not a super fun job to do twice.
I’ll take a stab at this, having just done this twice—once wring and once right...
After seating by hand, I just used a big punch and worked my way around—the seal shoulder needs to be lower than the tube outer edge, and the seal inner lip needs to be just barely proud of or flush with the outer lip of the axle tube. There is (oddly) no shoulder that it rests against, which I assumed there would be and I just whacked the first one in and then Realizernid home too deep. Tried to be very careful with a seal puller and get it backed out a bit but I must have boogered it up, because it leaked.
I’d buy an new seal rather than trying to back yours out, based on my experience—-not a super fun job to do twice.
The seal has a little Dust seal like a skirt that rides on the spindle. Looks like if the seal was flush with the Diff face that the skirt part would stick out some.
I did get a new seal. Mine is the drivers side diff tube seal
Your picture looks to me like the seal is in backwards?
Did you leave it pushed in that far?
I want to like this post again. Now I know why mine’s leaking (just barely but annoying). I set it in flush with a straightedge across the rim. A little too deep looks like. I can’t wait to dive back in and cross that off my list.
Hmmmm...
That’s what mine looks like, I thought it was perfect. Except mine weeps just enough to always have a drip formed on the bottom of the diff housing. Never makes it as far as the garage floor though and it’s always still full when I check it. Drives me bonkers though.
It’s been over a year.
Are you on level ground when you check the lube level? A few years ago, I went through an ordeal with 5-MT FWD transmission seals that were caused by me having the front slightly lifted when I filled and checked the lube level. I changed the seals three times before I found the issue.
It turned out the problem was from me overfilling the transmission. The seals look almost identical to these on the 100 series.
Could be overfilled I suppose. I just keep pumping till it flows out then cap it. Maybe I should wait longer, be sure it’s done overflowing. I might open it up and if it runs out the fill plug I’ll wait overnight and put it back on in the morning.
Thanks for the pic. I’ll check on mine tomorrow. It’s the passenger side for me.
Have you checked the breather is working? If its the stock breather those get corroded and stop working and wont vent- causing the seals to weep..
Should be okay it’s extended to a fuel filter up under the hood. No valve to stick.
Reminds me though, I do think I sucked some water in a while back through my locker air port (I didn’t yet have my air line connected and forgot about it). I was worried at the time and flushed it six or eight times in a few weeks. I don’t remember weeping before that. Possibly could have compromised the seal?
Reminds me though, I do think I sucked some water in a while back through my locker air port (I didn’t yet have my air line connected and forgot about it). I was worried at the time and flushed it six or eight times in a few weeks. I don’t remember weeping before that. Possibly could have compromised the seal?
Depends on the size and type of fuel filter used. You might dbl check its free flowing. Fwiw Ive used a small motorcycle type ff and one of the openings got hot enough to deform and wouldn't breathe.
Made a simple bushing to help with the install of the seals. The bushing fits over the lip of the seal and you simply tap it till it bottoms out on the shoulder of the differential. That way the seal will be square and never over-driven. It was machined from a piece of plastic but it could also be printed. This was for a GX, but same concept for a 100.
On my 2006 LC, I found out the differential oil seals are different sizes. The passenger side takes the smaller of the 2. Weird.
Put a straight edge across the end of the tube. If the sharp rubber lip of the seal touches it, you are good. Any deeper and it will likely leak.
I have this job coming up. How can I get this?
Heres a link to a fairly good video on removing the axle without completely removing the hub from the spindle (Shorter method). I've watched this guy do a bunch of his Land Cruiser videos and he explains what he's doing really well. I'd consider removing the brake caliper to prevent any stress to the line but he handles it better than other videos I've seen.
CV axles, front differential seals and diff oil replaced on land cruiser 100 LX470
Gonna attempt my CV axles/seals replacement this weekend!
CV axles, front differential seals and diff oil replaced on land cruiser 100 LX470
Gonna attempt my CV axles/seals replacement this weekend!
