Front Drive Shaft / Differential leak; Oil Seal & dust cover replacement

[TreatSmash]

Short method?

What’s your plan to remove the axle with out removing the grease cap and snap ring first?

Study the FSM: [SA] Suspension & Axle section

Like this?
Isn't this what half this thread is all about? Changing the seals without taking the whole thing apart?

 

[abuck99]

While some have done it, I don’t recommend that process- it’s very rough on all of the pivoting parts, and interrelated parts- especially on reassembly, not damaging the seal you just replaced by trying to wrestle an awkward and heavy knuckle-hub-rotor assembly and setting the CV back in place.

I doubt it’s saves much time. I take the extra 20-30minutes and remove the knuckle completely and the axle out and in by itself.

 

[TreatSmash]

While some have done it, I don’t recommend that process- it’s very rough on all of the pivoting parts, and interrelated parts- especially on reassembly, not damaging the seal you just replaced by trying to wrestle an awkward and heavy knuckle-hub-rotor assembly and setting the CV back in place.

I doubt it’s saves much time. I take the extra 20-30minutes and remove the knuckle completely and the axle out and in by itself.

Ok, you acted like you had no idea what I was talking about and you had me questioning my own sanity here.

But just to be clear, the snap ring that needs to be replaced is the one inside the grease cap?

 

[abuck99]

Yes snapring inside the grease cap.

 

[2001LC]

OK, I think I am almost set, final question.

Which snap rings are we talking about that need to be replaced?

There are two on the parts map from Partsouq and after staring at it for a half an hour I realized I'm too dumb to figure it out.



View attachment 3215904

Snap ring of inner axle, is not reusable. It's on axle end that goes into differential. 90521-34003

Snap ring of outer axle, is not reusable. It's on axle end that come out of hub flange and is under grease cap. Comes in 6 various thicknesses. Most common "D" 2.4mm 90520-31007, 2nd most common "C" 2.6mm 90520-31006

Here's install of FDS (AKA CV) where I note, open end of snap ring down. With knuckle off.

 

[TreatSmash]

Snap ring of inner axle, is not reusable. It's on axle end that goes into differential. 90521-34003

Snap ring of outer axle, is not reusable. It's on axle end that come out of hub flange and is under grease cap. Comes in 6 various thicknesses. Most common "D" 2.4mm 90520-31007, 2nd most common "C" 2.6mm 90520-31006

Here's install of FDS (AKA CV) where I note, open end of snap ring down. With knuckle off.

Hmm well I think almost got it right, I ordered a set of both inner and outer from Partsouq, I didn't however size them.

Also, I am already subscribed to your channel and have used it several times, so thank you sir!

 

[2001LC]

Old video of Hub flange snap ring. Show tool made from common shop tools lying around, also that we must pull axle out to size snap ring gap.

 

[Moridinbg]

Here is the proper way to remove the driveshaft without disconnecting the lower ball joint. I have no idea why the guy from that video left the caliper. Bot only it horribly stretches the hose, it reduces movement.

Disconnecting the shock is essential - this significantly increases downtravel and allows the driveshaft to clear the spindle. No need to strap the DS, it won’t go anywhere.

Not having to deal with the LBJ makes it tremendously easier, especially when it is a one man job.

One con is that you need a jack to rise and lower the lower control arm to disconnect/connect the shock and swaybar, which could be an issue in the field where you usually have only one and no stands

 

[2001LC]

You're so right, never stretch brake flex lines. An absolutely sure way to damage the flex line.

I've released UBJ, shock & link once, just recently. Which certainly increase drop/room. I think worth mentioning: Torque shock bolt, once loaded (after vehicle weight back on LCA/wheels on ground),

I've also done by "only" releasing upper ball joint. It's tight with this method, but do-able. Can be done one person, but easier with two. This is the shortest method, as fewest bolts removed. As only UBJ, grease cap and snap ring need be released/removed, and only just one jack needed.

These days, in the shop. I use pullers, to release all ball joints. I just hang the caliper on frame, pull all 3 ball joint and set the knuckle assembly aside. Which is heavy w/wheel hub, but manageable. I've pullers (Evertough 67025 for UBJ, Customized: JTC 1285 for TRE & the big boy OTC 7310A for LBJ) for all 3, with brake dust shield on. I'll note: I never pound off ball joints with BFH.

If I was just wanting to pack just one puller, for off-road gear/tool box. I'd take my customized JTC 1285. I can get all 3 ball joint, with it brake dust/wheel hub on.

UBJ puller evertough 67025 has been my go to for decades. It can be used on all ball joints, brake dust shield/wheel hub off.

Last year I picked up this puller for TRE. Which I customize opening to 33.25mm, a JTC 1258 (28mm). It can also be used on the UBJ & LBJ as well.

 

[MechE30]

Used the quick method to put in an OEM seal on the passenger side after a diff rebuild. The Yukon kit supplied a seal that leaked. Really appreciate the advice on the thread to speed the process up!

 

[HitTheDirt]

Hi thanks for all the great info and images as usual. I'm still not seeing how the Wits tool works on both side seals when they have different outer diameters?

 

[shtbrwn86]

Hi thanks for all the great info and images as usual. I'm still not seeing how the Wits tool works on both side seals when they have different outer diameters?

Can’t speak to the wits end tool but if you are only doing this on one vehicle the SST oak stick that @2001LC mentions works just fine. If I did this even a couple times a year i would get the wits end tool for sure.

 

[2001LC]

Hi thanks for all the great info and images as usual. I'm still not seeing how the Wits tool works on both side seals when they have different outer diameters?

Wit'send seal tool fits both pockets in diff, perfectly.

Using the Witsend tool, 3/4" x 1/2" oak stick or a rod. Make sure to drive seal in flush 360 degrees/square with inner shelve.

Trick is to use a scraper, to clean the shelves to bare metal.

DS has narrow shelve we drive seal flush to, in the pocket.

This DS seal was out of alignment (bottom pushed in). Likely during careless install of FDS. Note. how it's not square with inner shelve of pocket we drive to:

PS shelve in pocket we drive to, is considerable wider.