Front Drive Shaft / Differential leak; Oil Seal & dust cover replacement (1 Viewer)

abuck99

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Wow- terrible procedure and execution. Look at what he's doing to the brake hose and abs sensor wire- stretched to its limit (on a 15+ yr old hose), and then the shock to the flange and axle ( if you're planning to rebuild). I wouldn't try that on a trailside repair let alone in my garage.

If you just take the extra 20-30 minutes to separate the lower ball joint, caliper and remove the knuckle entirely, you have wide open access to remove and easily install the axle with out yanking on anything. Do it right- do it once.

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Yeah guys skips over some stuff and use a few wrong procedures. But I've many times done by only removing caliper, snap ring and upper ball joint. It faster. Although easier with knuckle out and out of the way!

But what I find interesting, was the oil filter tool for seal install tool. I going to check some of oil filter tools for fitment. If overlaps seal and hits diff inner lip, that would be nice to set in square. My 1/2"x3/4" x3' oak stick works very well, but slow. I'd stick a 2" 3/8" extension on oil filter tool, and tap in while sitting comfortably outside wheel well.
 

abuck99

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If youre doing seals often enough to justify some tools- get a seal driver remover kit
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If youre doing seals often enough to justify some tools- get a seal driver remover kit
View attachment 2514233
For some reason, I thought you returned that one for not being useful! @ramm21 just purchased the Toyota STT set, so cool. Unfortunately it did not include the diff seal tools. But what I really liked about his set. It has attachable extension bars.
 

abuck99

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For some reason, I thought you returned that one for not being useful! @ramm21 just purchased the Toyota STT set, so cool. Unfortunately it did not include the diff seal tools. But what I really liked about his set. It has attachable extension bars.
LOL- yeah Ive bought a fair amount of special tools over the past few years, but I didn't return this seal driver set (its been pretty useful). I returned a cam gear holder that turned out to be nearly useless.
 
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Yes, new OEM FDS comes with inner axle snap ring. Which comes in one size only.

FWIW:

Front Drive shaft assembly (AKA FDS) (AKA CV) Has inner, center and outer axles and two CV joints.

Outer axle snap ring (hub flange snap ring) is sold separately. It comes in 6 sizes. of .2mm increments from 1.8mm to 2.8mm thickness. Use very tightest you can fit. I use 2.4 & 2.6mm the most.

Snap ring hub flange:
90520-31010 RING, SNAP 1.8mm G
90520-31009 RING, SNAP 2.0mm F
90520-31008 RING, SNAP 2.2mm E
90520-31007 RING, SNAP 2.4mm D
90520-31006 RING, SNAP 2.6mm C
90520-31005 RING, SNAP 2.8mm B
 

zhloea

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Yes, new OEM FDS comes with inner axle snap ring. Which comes in one size only.

FWIW:

Front Drive shaft assembly (AKA FDS) (AKA CV) Has inner, center and outer axles and two CV joints.

Outer axle snap ring (hub flange snap ring) is sold separately. It comes in 6 sizes. of .2mm increments from 1.8mm to 2.8mm thickness. Use very tightest you can fit. I use 2.4 & 2.6mm the most.

Snap ring hub flange:
90520-31010 RING, SNAP 1.8mm G
90520-31009 RING, SNAP 2.0mm F
90520-31008 RING, SNAP 2.2mm E
90520-31007 RING, SNAP 2.4mm D
90520-31006 RING, SNAP 2.6mm C
90520-31005 RING, SNAP 2.8mm B
By the way, nice "seal" job! I feel a little dread to do the seal even though I have to, 15 dollars each ...you possibly ruin it with one deeper punch...
 
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Yes, works either side. 3/4' width X ~1/1/2" x 24" oak (hard wood, holds it's form for many seal jobs) stick is best. Oak hits inner shelve of diff, which is right were seal seats.

LH side, I work a bit faster. If I seat to far in, I pry back out. The LH seal has metal plate on back side and diff tube has center protrusion I angle off of, to pry back out seal to square off if i need to. RH side, I take more time to not over shoot (seating seal in to far), getting seat perfect first time.

Most important is seal must be seated squarely. If cocked-eyed, it will likely leak. If in or out .5mm -+ but squarely seated, it will likely not leak.

I've done more than I can remember. Not one has leaked.

Often guys get seal in okay. Only to knock out of alignment installing front drive shaft.
 
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zhloea

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Yes, works either side. 3/4' width X ~1/1/2" x 24" oak (hard wood, holds it's form for many seal jobs) stick is best. Oak hits inner shelve of diff, which is right were seal seats.

LH side, I work a bit faster. If I seat to far in, I pry back out. The LH seal has metal plate on back side and diff tube has center protrusion I angle off of, to pry back out seal to square off if i need to. RH side, I take more time to not over shoot (seating seal in to far), getting seat perfect first time.

Most important is seal must be seated squarely. If cocked-eyed, it will likely leak. If in or out .5mm -+ but squarely seated, it will likely not leak.

I've done more than I can remember. Not one has leaked.

Often guys get seal in okay. Only to knock out of alignment installing front drive shaft.
Hope I have good luck with them. The most terrible thing is, once it leaks we need to take off the whole bunch of crap to get there then fix it...
 
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Taking your time, lubing seat area with gear lube, making sure squarely seated, using good lighting and guide in FDS carefully after greasing lip of seal. They'll not leak!
 

zhloea

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Yes, works either side. 3/4' width X ~1/1/2" x 24" oak (hard wood, holds it's form for many seal jobs) stick is best. Oak hits inner shelve of diff, which is right were seal seats.

LH side, I work a bit faster. If I seat to far in, I pry back out. The LH seal has metal plate on back side and diff tube has center protrusion I angle off of, to pry back out seal to square off if i need to. RH side, I take more time to not over shoot (seating seal in to far), getting seat perfect first time.

Most important is seal must be seated squarely. If cocked-eyed, it will likely leak. If in or out .5mm -+ but squarely seated, it will likely not leak.

I've done more than I can remember. Not one has leaked.

Often guys get seal in okay. Only to knock out of alignment installing front drive shaft.
I just reached there, I think what we talked "using a wood stick" as a drift will be difficult for this "tube/driver" side, because the lip of this side so small, maybe too small to stop the wood stick when punch on it..
 

zhloea

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Yes1. The small black snap that FSM recommend open end down and shows as non reusable.

View attachment 1786682

This is proper level, even 1mm further out of diff tube.
View attachment 1786686

Did I drive the seal in too much? Should I redo it or it is ok?
I just saw you said "even 1mm further out of diff tube", seems I don't have that 1 mm out, pretty much just even flush.

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