Front Drive Shaft / Differential leak; Oil Seal & dust cover replacement (2 Viewers)

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Drop your VIN into partsouq.com and proceed from there. You can browse by Toyota > Land Cruiser, but there are a TON of different catalogs. Using your VIN speeds the process up.

I don't know of a faster way to find parts. A quick look there looks to me like you need 90311-47012 and 90311-47013. But that's a guess, because I don't have your VIN.

Those are the ones I got, so I did ok there. Thanx!
 
Drop your VIN into partsouq.com and proceed from there. You can browse by Toyota > Land Cruiser, but there are a TON of different catalogs. Using your VIN speeds the process up.

I don't know of a faster way to find parts. A quick look there looks to me like you need 90311-47012 and 90311-47013. But that's a guess, because I don't have your VIN.
Those PN #'s are correct for all years, for the frt diff side seals.
 
Well, that's concerning. I think I have the wrong ones on order for myself then. :rolleyes:
i accidentally ordered two of the same thinking they were the same. determined that i needed
9031147027 passenger side
9031147013 driver side

i was in a pinch and needed a passenger side seal immediately. had to buy a national at oreilys. was pleasantly surprised to see it was made in japan. :hmm:
20200408_181723-01.webp
 
Ah, weird. I ordered those same part numbers. -47027 and -47013. I've got those in hand, but looking again at the parts diagram, it says I need -47012.

-47027 is quite a bit smaller though. Maybe I'll just wing it—I've got a dealer within a few blocks of my apartment. I could just bike over if push came to shove.
 
Ah, weird. I ordered those same part numbers. -47027 and -47013. I've got those in hand, but looking again at the parts diagram, it says I need -47012.

-47027 is quite a bit smaller though. Maybe I'll just wing it—I've got a dealer within a few blocks of my apartment. I could just bike over if push came to shove.
yes the passenger side is much smaller for some reason.
20200408_181738-01.webp


btw if you have to get them at oreilys, they couldn't find them to save their life. i found the Toyota part number and asked to cross reference and they found it right away.

also napa has the wrong part numbers in their application database. i asked for a passenger side and it was another driver side. such a fiasco!
 
yes the passenger side is much smaller for some reason. View attachment 2274382

btw if you have to get them at oreilys, they couldn't find them to save their life. i found the Toyota part number and asked to cross reference and they found it right away.

also napa has the wrong part numbers in their application database. i asked for a passenger side and it was another driver side. such a fiasco!

Sounds like your luck is similar to mine. The work is easy, but somehow I always screw up getting the right parts on hand the first time.
 
I did this yesterday. I think that seal ending 12 superseaded with 27 Stay with oem seal as those dont bend when installing. others bend/deform easily
 
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Confirming OEM diff seal part numbers:

1587039702174.png
 
Actually I double checked. I got these seals:
90311-47013
90311-47027
Either the 90311-47027 (new PN) or 90311-47012 (old PN) are for the right side
 
that national brand seal i posted looked and installed exactly like an oem seal. it was made in japan. very possibly a rebranded seal from oem manufacturer. of course since they sell other brands under their name, the next time it might not be the same seal.
 
FYI: OEM seal is made by "NOK" (there is fake brand called KOK so Be aware).
I once used a "national" brand seal for my corolla's front inner seal and just few taps made it to bend. First time I used a non OEM brand and had my lesson.
 
Hey @2001LC have you ever done a full axle removal with this same "short method?"

(removing the dust cap and clip and pulling the axle from the back of the hub)
 
Hey @2001LC have you ever done a full axle removal with this same "short method?"

(removing the dust cap and clip and pulling the axle from the back of the hub)

Did that yesterday. It works. Putting it back is slightly more of a PITA than with the spindle totally out of the way, but still doable.

Edit: not yesterday, but last week. Yesterday and today were reassembly.
 
Hey @2001LC have you ever done a full axle removal with this same "short method?"

(removing the dust cap and clip and pulling the axle from the back of the hub)
I've done multiple front drive shaft R&R, by only releasing upper ball joint to swing knuckle out of the way. I start by pulling caliper and hanging out of the way.

DS is hardest and some pull the two bolts holding arm of TRE fixes to knuckle. Those bolts threads are held by red lock-tight, so a bear to break loose..

Both side require really pressing down hard on LCA to clear the axle from differential first. Turning the steering wheel can also aid it getting more room.
 
I've done multiple front drive shaft R&R, by only releasing upper ball joint to swing knuckle out of the way. I start by pulling caliper and hanging out of the way.

DS is hardest and some pull the two bolts holding arm of TRE fixes to knuckle. Those bolts threads are held by red lock-tight, so a bear to break loose..

Both side require really pressing down hard on LCA to clear the axle from differential first. Turning the steering wheel can also aid it getting more room.

Do you put RED locktite back on those bolts?
 

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