Front Axle Rebuild - For FAQ (9 Viewers)

[SmokingRocks]

I ordered Marlin Crawlers Rebuild kit and did mine about 5 months ago.

I have access to Matco tools, lifts, part wash, wire wheels and hydraulic presses all of which helped a great deal. I still took my time since it was my first go at it, spent one night and the following day completing the job. I just followed the Youtube videos step by step, paused them then went back and watched it again until I was comfortable with the next process.

One thing I will caution everyone about when using the videos; make sure that you have all the parts that he has in the video! If you don't you might accidentally remove a bearing chase or seal that you don't need to and don't have a replacement for. That sucks.

 

[El Burro Negro]

I have a dilemma! I have had issues keeping the front axels tight, so I decided I need to get a Knuckle rebuild kit. I live in Nicaragua, and I will be in the US to pick up the parts I need. I have a '68 FJ40, that has been pieced together with a mix mash of parts. It now has a F2 motor and 3 speed transmission off a '72. When we disassembled the front end, we discovered that at some point someone modified the axels to accommodate modern locking hubs. After looking at the housing, we decided it would be best to change out the entire front end from my donor '77 FJ 40. My donor vehicle seems to be more original, and parts in general have been in usable condition. The issue is, the front axel is live all the time, there are no locking hubs. I will still buy a rebuild kit regardless, but my question is, should I try and reuse the parts that allow me to use the locking hubs, or stick with the original live system. What are the issues that I could face. The vehicle still has drum brakes, with 35" tires. conversion to disc is out of the question at the moment. I will also replace the U-Bolts and main bearings, any other parts I should replace while I am at it?

 

[BILT4ME]

I have a dilemma! I have had issues keeping the front axels tight, so I decided I need to get a Knuckle rebuild kit. I live in Nicaragua, and I will be in the US to pick up the parts I need. I have a '68 FJ40, that has been pieced together with a mix mash of parts. It now has a F2 motor and 3 speed transmission off a '72. When we disassembled the front end, we discovered that at some point someone modified the axels to accommodate modern locking hubs. After looking at the housing, we decided it would be best to change out the entire front end from my donor '77 FJ 40. My donor vehicle seems to be more original, and parts in general have been in usable condition. The issue is, the front axel is live all the time, there are no locking hubs. I will still buy a rebuild kit regardless, but my question is, should I try and reuse the parts that allow me to use the locking hubs, or stick with the original live system. What are the issues that I could face. The vehicle still has drum brakes, with 35" tires. conversion to disc is out of the question at the moment. I will also replace the U-Bolts and main bearings, any other parts I should replace while I am at it?

You may be better off to post your question in the FJ40 section. There will more likely be more knowledgeable folks to help you there.

 

[wearsabrowncoat]

Sorry, here it is:


https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/752382-front-axle-cheatsheet.html

Link for Cheat sheet on torque specs and fluid capacities does not seem to work on Mud app.

Will someone please cut and paste it?

 

[retrofive]

Link for Cheat sheet on torque specs and fluid capacities does not seem to work on Mud app.

Will someone please cut and paste it?

The PDF is way easier to read FYI, use your phone's browser or a PC to view. But here is the JPG that is that thread.

 

[wearsabrowncoat]

That's great. I need to find some place to print that out.

The cheat sheet lists gear oil. But not wheel bearing or moly grease.

1 container of lithium based wheel bearing grease and 4 tubes of moly grease enough?

 

[BILT4ME]

That's great. I need to find some place to print that out.

The cheat sheet lists gear oil. But not wheel bearing or moly grease.

1 container of lithium based wheel bearing grease and 4 tubes of moly grease enough?

I needed/used (3) tubes of Lucas #2 Red-N-Tacky for the wheel bearings and (4) tubes of the Valvoline Palladium Moly grease for the knuckles. These are full size (14 oz) grease gun tubes. I got mine at NAPA and they also carry at O'Reilly's.

 

[subzali]

I have a dilemma! I have had issues keeping the front axels tight, so I decided I need to get a Knuckle rebuild kit. I live in Nicaragua, and I will be in the US to pick up the parts I need. I have a '68 FJ40, that has been pieced together with a mix mash of parts. It now has a F2 motor and 3 speed transmission off a '72. When we disassembled the front end, we discovered that at some point someone modified the axels to accommodate modern locking hubs. After looking at the housing, we decided it would be best to change out the entire front end from my donor '77 FJ 40. My donor vehicle seems to be more original, and parts in general have been in usable condition. The issue is, the front axel is live all the time, there are no locking hubs. I will still buy a rebuild kit regardless, but my question is, should I try and reuse the parts that allow me to use the locking hubs, or stick with the original live system. What are the issues that I could face. The vehicle still has drum brakes, with 35" tires. conversion to disc is out of the question at the moment. I will also replace the U-Bolts and main bearings, any other parts I should replace while I am at it?

The only difference should be replacing the drive flange at the end of each axle shaft with the lockout assembly. A 77 will have find spline axles (birfs) however so you need to have a compatible lockout assembly for it.

 

[wearsabrowncoat]

Clean off the ABS sensor and re-install it. Torque the bolts to 13 ft-lbs.

Should it just be wiped off with a rag or is this something for one of the 4 cans of brake cleaner?

 

[GXO]

just make sure the magnets dont have any metallic dust or debris. Grease doesnt matter as it lives in the stuff.

 

[Romer]

just make sure the magnets dont have any metallic dust or debris. Grease doesnt matter as it lives in the stuff.

Correct

 

[DHwreckage]

gahhh subbing this, im going do a front and rear rebuild when i re-gear. Not sure if im going to have slee just do it all which is a very big pretty penny or try it on my own. whats the consensus in terms of difficulty if you have to do it in your townhouse parking spot?

 

[bajaphile]

It wasn't bad really. Just time consuming. The one side might take you a few hours to most the day... Then the other side will be half the time. I feel that you need all your tools, seal/bearing driver kit (used one from Harbor freight and worked great), seal puller (not needed but nice to have), c-clip pliers, axle socket and brass hammer or drift. I used my vice a few times as well. Hardest part I felt was driving out the trunion bearing races and wheel bearing races (i replaced by bearings, only cause I felt like it). Other than that it was straightforward.

 

[Chris FJ80]

Agree with bajaphile exactly

 

[GXO]

Brass drifts are the key to those races, they come right out with a nice drift and a big hammer.

 

[Brewsterfire]

Install a bolt in the axle shaft and pull it out to hold it while you install the snap ring.

Using a snap ring expander, install a new snap ring and remove the bolt.

After the drive flange is fitted and the cone washer nuts are torqued, the circlip can be fitted. Screw an 8 x 1.25 pitch bolt into the axle to pull it out and expose the circlip groove.



Install the drive plate (part cap goes into)






Coat the inside of the cap with MP grease and tap it on using a rubber hammer or a drift and hammer.

Re-install the brake caliper. Torque bolts to 90 lb-ft

during the re-installation of the caliper is a great time to replace the brake pads if required. 100 series pads last longer on the front

Re-install the tires. Make sure you torque the rims to the following specs depending on which rim you have:

Steel wheel and alloy wheel with conical seat lug nuts, 109 lb-ft.
Late alloy wheel with shank nuts, 76 lb-ft.


Don't forget to refill the front Diff with 90wt gear oil. I prefer synthetic. Re-install the Drain plug first and then remove the fill plug on the front outside of the Diff. You can accidently swap these, so be careful not to.
View attachment 55920

 

[Brewsterfire]

Thanks for the info!!

 

[rfakhrai]

I'm finishing up this project currently and you might want to add that the hub to rotor bolts need to be broken while everything is still put together, otherwise you won't be able to break them once it's off the truck without air tools (or at least I wasn't).

 

[Hornd]

I'm finishing up this project currently and you might want to add that the hub to rotor bolts need to be broken while everything is still put together, otherwise you won't be able to break them once it's off the truck without air tools (or at least I wasn't).

Drop it in the Tire with the lugs in the holes, then put knees on tire.

 

[rfakhrai]

Thanks that's a good tip, wish I had thought of it when I was in there. Oh well. I'll just replace the rotors when I re-pack my bearings next time.