FJ80 Budgeted Project Build (1 Viewer)

[PrinzChaz85]

Hey Guys,

First time poster here. Wanted to get your general thoughts on my future project build. I currently have a 92' FJ80 I bought from an impound yard for $1500. Truck is in pretty rough shape cosmetically but runs great. Solid body, No rust, faded paint, no power steering, shredded dash + front seats. No lockers the older underpowered engine with 208k on the clock . Still runs like a top.

I'd like to convert her into an overlander / camping rig project build with a budget of about 15-20k . And going with that budget wanted to see how you guys would best go about it. Here are my major thoughts below:

( Note: Price Estimations include shop labor )

Engine Swap Upgrade -
Cost: 5k ?
Would like to swap in a Toyota V8 from either the 100 series or a Toyota Tundra. I guess out of brand loyalty / reliability I prefer to stick with a Toyota powerplant vs something like a Chevy 350. Has anyone done this to their rig and would you recommend?

Front + Rear Lockers
Cost 2k ?
Being the 92' version , the truck doesn't currently have lockers. Was thinking of just swapping in some factory lockers from a 100 series, but does anyone recommend any aftermarket upgrades for this ? ARB ?

Old Man Emu 3'' Suspension
Cost 1.5k ?
Seems to be the industry standard

ARB Front + Rear Bumpers
Cost 2k ?
Again seems to be industry standard.

New Paint + Interior elements
Cost 2k ?
Price fluctuating depending on how much of this I can just do the labor for myself.

What do you guys think????

 

[pengfinn]

I'm no expert as I've not done one myself, but judging from some of the engine swaps done here on mud, I'd be it would run much farther north of $5k, diesels laughably more; but since you're looking at a V8 it won't consume your whole budget. Maybe not, anyway.

Everything else seems ballpark, depending on what kind of a deal you can get for some of it, you may save some money.

 

[PrinzChaz85]

* Also quick addendum. What are your thoughts on transmissions and gearing for this. Truck would definitely be on the highway a good deal for long-range trips. Also a pic :

 

[suadero]

Flip that one for a few K and get something that isn't toast inside. Spending 15-20 grand, including mods, should get you a friggin' palace.

 

[ZackR]

^^^ I'd second suadero. if you have a budget of $15-20k it would make way more sense to buy a truck thats already outfitted and dialed in, then fine tune to your needs from there. If you are really intent on the build process then go for a clean one with lockers at $8-10k and start from there.

Search the classifieds here and do as much research as you can.

 

[scottryana]

Sorry but your budget isn't even close to realistic unless you can do every aspect including building bumpers, all of the fabrication and wiring for the engine swap, etc.

 

[PrinzChaz85]

Sorry but your budget isn't even close to realistic unless you can do every aspect including building bumpers, all of the fabrication and wiring for the engine swap, etc.

Thanks , that's basically why I made this post. What do you think is a ballpark realistic budget for those above goals?

 

[scottryana]

My additions are in red.

Engine Swap Upgrade -
Cost: 5k ?
Would like to swap in a Toyota V8 from either the 100 series or a Toyota Tundra. I guess out of brand loyalty / reliability I prefer to stick with a Toyota powerplant vs something like a Chevy 350. Has anyone done this to their rig and would you recommend?
Tripple this.
Sourcing a 2UZ-FE with ECU and Trans $2k,
Engine rebuild, custom exhaust replacing sensors, etc $6k
Labor to build engine mounts, trans mounts, wire, etc $6k+

Front + Rear Lockers
Cost 2k ?
Being the 92' version , the truck doesn't currently have lockers. Was thinking of just swapping in some factory lockers from a 100 series, but does anyone recommend any aftermarket upgrades for this ? ARB ?
Front and rear ARB lockers $2k
Rebuild kits $1k
Labor $600

Old Man Emu 3'' Suspension
Cost 1.5k ?
Seems to be the industry standard
This is reasonable

ARB Front + Rear Bumpers
Cost 2k ?
Again seems to be industry standard.
$3.5k, the rear alone is over $2k. Then if you want to add a winch etc, it will be additional cost

New Paint + Interior elements
Cost 2k ?
Unless you are spray painting this is way way low. A real paint job will be closer to $8k, doing a bedliner will be $1500-$3k. Not sure how bad the interior is but if you need seat covers, or seat and want a drawer system etc probably another $3k

Price fluctuating depending on how much of this I can just do the labor for myself.

What do you guys think????

SO probably, $34k

 

[mehbohdi]

Listen to ^ I think he has already done it all, and has had lots of experience at spending $.

 

[PrinzChaz85]

Thanks guys! Sound advice all around.

 

[noahfecks]

1994 *Toyota* *Land* *Cruiser* 4WD - Over 500 Vehicles to Choose From!

have it taken down the road to Slee, keep the motor and let him spend the rest of your $16K and you will end up with a really slick cruisy

 

[Marine7]

Sorry but your budget isn't even close to realistic unless you can do every aspect including building bumpers, all of the fabrication and wiring for the engine swap, etc.

Sell yours, and start with a newer, shinier, locked one. Forget about the v8, and do a super charger on yours. V8's are so 1990! These 4's and 6's can make 4 times the HP of the heavy, boat anchor, v8's!

 

[Tremek]

That's ... not how it works. A bone stock 1FZ-FE longblock is 600 lbs. A 450hp+ GM 6.2 LS3 is about 400 lbs. Nothing about an aluminum cam-in-block v8 is a boat anchor.

 

[120mm]

Keep the engine. Baseline it. Get better tires. Drive it around some to get used to it.

Make an el cheapo plywood platform for the back and camp out in it just to see if you like it.

Add armor and bumpers if necessary.

Drive some more.

Add a lunchbox locker in the rear.

Drive some more.

Add a lift if you must.

Drive some more.

I bet you can get a shed load of actual expedition and actual camp cruising for way under your budget, and you probably won't pay for a bunch of crap you really don't want.

 

[scottryana]

^^^ this is the best advice.

You don't need $3500 of bumpers and $3500 of lockers to get out and overland. You don't need a V8 swap. You just need to get a newer 95-97, get it baselines, pull the running boards, put some 33's on it and go explore.

 

[LS1FJ40]

^^^ this is the best advice.

You don't need $3500 of bumpers and $3500 of lockers to get out and overland. You don't need a V8 swap. You just need to get a newer 95-97, get it baselines, pull the running boards, put some 33's on it and go explore.

Why go to a 95-97? Because of HP? Many would contend that for overlanding the 91-92 is the ideal platform. While the motor is slow as hell it is certainly a hell of a lot less worry and easier to work on than the 93-97.

Any 80 is going to be a pig in the mountains when loaded down unless you supercharge or v8 it. And that's a whole other set of concerns.

Pour beer in the gas tank and piss in the crank case. 3FE is ready to go!

 

[Marine7]

That's ... not how it works. A bone stock 1FZ-FE longblock is 600 lbs. A 450hp+ GM 6.2 LS3 is about 400 lbs. Nothing about an aluminum cam-in-block v8 is a boat anchor.

Your right, I just remember the aluminum GM engine I had...... great until abused, then problematic. If it were me (and it ISNT!) I would make HP out of the existing heart. Whichever way you go....... good luck! Cant wait to see it.

 

[Marine7]

Why go to a 95-97? Because of HP? Many would contend that for overlanding the 91-92 is the ideal platform. While the motor is slow as hell it is certainly a hell of a lot less worry and easier to work on than the 93-97.

Any 80 is going to be a pig in the mountains when loaded down unless you supercharge or v8 it. And that's a whole other set of concerns.

Pour beer in the gas tank and piss in the crank case. 3FE is ready to go!

I agree with you! I'll take my 3FE any day over the newer power plants! 3FE is..... by far.... the MOST dependable engine I've ever experienced. Just go around the campfire in the morning, and pickup all the "half beers", and any other leftovers, and pour them in the fuel tank..... take a leak on the crank case, and your set to "Overland" for another day!

 

[LS1FJ40]

Keep the engine. Baseline it. Get better tires. Drive it around some to get used to it.

Make an el cheapo plywood platform for the back and camp out in it just to see if you like it.

Add armor and bumpers if necessary.

Drive some more.

Add a lunchbox locker in the rear.

Drive some more.

Add a lift if you must.

Drive some more.

I bet you can get a shed load of actual expedition and actual camp cruising for way under your budget, and you probably won't pay for a bunch of crap you really don't want.

This is the best advice. Drive it and find out what you NEED. A lot of the mods are for cool factor. I really want a rear bumper with two swingouts. Do I NEED it? The only time I NEEDED it was on a trip to Baja where I blew two tires on the trip. Yes it is really nice to get the spare out from underneath the vehicle but there are multiple ways to do that.

I have a stock 92. I've driven it all over North and Central America with stock height and 31x10.50s. Without front and rear fancy bumpers. Basically stock. Never let me down. The only time I ever felt like I wanted more power was in the mountains. But I just stayed in the right lane and cruised along. On flat ground I go 75 no problem.

The definition of overlanding is pretty broad and has been beaten to death. There are people that "overland" in Lincoln Town Cars, Subarus, and Land Cruisers. It depends on what you consider "overlanding" as to what you will NEED.

 

[suadero]

Saw a guy over landing in El Salvador in an 800 dollar Ford Escort. I was impressed. He had made it over some of the same bad roads we felt fortunate to have our 80 on.