"Lola" FZJ80 Build - (eventual) 2UZFE and 5-Speed Swap (1 Viewer)

[ZackR]

I wasn't planning on doing a whole lot to the 2UZ, it already makes around 33% more power (factory numbers) in stock form...while the 1FZ can take more boost, I wasn't planning on spending money to boost either. It would cost way more money to boost the 1FZ than to swap in the 2UZ, and from what I have seen, a TRD supercharger only adds about 30% to the 1FZ anyway, still less than a stock 2UZ and would also then need premium gas, which adds a continued higher cost of ownership...boosted engines are inherently more expensive to upkeep, the list goes on...



I would not say my 1FZ is well running, and if I'm going to spend the money on a rebuild, I would rather pay the same/nearly the same on a better starting platform.

Running higher RPM, bumping timing, and leaving the ETC button on may make it run with more power and give it a nice pep, but at the cost of even more fuel...and I can almost guarantee it would still not be nearly as peppy and powerful as the 2UZ.

That list is crazy to me...a TRD Supercharger is ridiculously expensive, while you can throw on an M90 on the 2UZ for less than a grand. Throwing a turbo on either engine would cost close to the same. (probably a bit more for the 2uz, because of dual exhaust, and space around it) and there would be more bang for the buck in the 2UZ anyway supercharger or turbocharger. As far as other swaps go, I would more than likely be looking for different options if I didn't already have the entire donor vehicle at next to no cost, an LS would obviously allow for more and cheaper power addons, but I would have to figure out transmissions, adapters, etc...I would love to do any Turbo Diesel and the Cummins is up high on that list, but that swap is expensive. The builds I have followed have all been well over 12K+ for that swap, which I am in no position to even entertain an amount like that.

The 2UZ is a great platform to begin with, I've got lots of experience with UZ engines and I love them. And I am unwilling to spend the money to keep the 1FZ when dollar for dollar it will still not be as good in the long run. Like I said, it would be a totally different story if I didn't already have the donor vehicle, and that I know the running and maintenance history on. But since I am going to have to spend the money to fix the engine up anyway, I'd rather put the better/more powerful engine and better transmission in.

Fair enough - if your current 1FZ isn't running well then it's not an apples to apples comparison.

As for as the 12k figure don't be surprised if you creep up to that amount or more once the swap is complete, even with having a donor vehicle and doing all of the work yourself. Here's a thread about the swap you are planning and it looks like a lot of custom parts need to be made, sourced or figured out along the way.

***WANTED*** 4.7 2UZFE/FZJ80 swap info ONLY. - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/wanted-4-7-2uzfe-fzj80-swap-info-only.1085910/

Good luck man!

 

[PrydeFall]

Good luck man!

Thanks, i know that there is quite a bit of custom stuff that has to be made, none of it really scares me though. I will handle it as it comes along, and I am a total DIY nutcase...like I will go out of my way and end up spending more money to make the tools I need to make a thing myself if I can. But those tools can then be used in the future, so its worth it. Any part I need for any project, I always try and find a way to DIY it if I can. This of course leads to the ADHD trail of tears, you know I've been trying to replace that lightbulb for years now...(I hope someone gets that reference).

 

[Marvelicious]

So, I'm not as down on the 2uz swap as some on here. I own a 2uz Tundra and it's great, but it's also lighter and more importantly, geared properly for the tires I have on it. My 1FZ powered Cruiser seems down on power comparably, but it's heavier and I haven't adjusted the gears to the 35" tires as of yet.

If I were you, before I considered ANY other mod, I would correct the gearing for the tires. The 2uz is going to feel gutless as well, because you're running the wrong gears.

That said, if you do go ahead with it, I'd love to see what solution you come up with for the transfer case. What I'd really LOVE to see is for NWF to offer a version of their "Ecobox" that bolts up to a 2AV in the rear. You could run the A750F, keep the 2AV and have extra gearing options (if you're into the offroading stuff). I'd figure out the bellhousing to put a 750 behind my 1FZ if I could buy one. It's probably a pipe dream since they'd probably sell like 5 of them... they'd rather off a range box that costs about as much as an Atlas.

 

[Fj80oregon]

I’ll buy your 1fz if it’s priced right help you recover some of your money from the swap.

 

[PrydeFall]

There is definitely a ton of stuff I need to do before I get to the swap itself. (I should probably change the title to eventually...lmao), the funny thing is, I didn't feel much of a difference in power going from the 33's to the 37's. It didn't feel any more luggy or gutless than it already did. I only drove it for about a week before putting the 37's on, but I had put over 500 miles on it in that time. But I also didn't take any kind of empirical data, like 0-60 or top speed, etc... Just based on feeling, I honestly thought it was going to hurt it a lot more.

 

[PrydeFall]

I’ll buy your 1fz if it’s priced right help you recover some of your money from the swap.

Well, once I get to the pull I will keep that in mind, I'd be happy to pass it along to a loving family. Where it belongs.

 

[PrydeFall]

So I have officially gotten my answer about the transmission/transfer case...after much research, looking through many threads, and many, many pictures. The HF2AV will not mate to the 750F from the Sequoia. The tail housing and shaft are different. They can be changed over, if I could find someone selling those parts for cheap. (Not likely). It would be easiest to find someone parting out a LX470 or 100 series and grab the transmission from that. With or without the transfer case, as it is the same transfer case as the 80. Once again, it needs to be cheap enough. Based on the prices I am finding online, my only two options are to find someone parting out a LC100/LX470 and is willing to part with the trans cheap, or to swap in different axles. Like 1 tons that will match up to the sequoia's transfer case. That second option has some merit on its own. I could sell the locked 80 axles to pay for a good chunk of the axle swap...something to think about.

 

[baldilocks]

This thing is moving very fast.

 

[Box Rocket]

FWIW, you might check with NWToys for the oilpan. They make a rear sump pan. I've got one of them on my 1UZ that's in my minitruck.

 

[PrydeFall]

Unfortunately, all of their oil pan stuff for the UZ swap is currently unavailable. Also the price for the DIY kit and Precut flange are outrageous to me. I am in the process of finishing my plasma table, and I will be able to make most of that kit for much less. I think they may be out of or going out of business according to their website, they have no parts available, period. Weird.

 

[06reg4x4]

FYI u can run 1” spacers. Sits almost flush and aftermarket wheels usually have an opening anyway where the studs would stick out. I run Toyota ifs spec wheels to 17x9 -12 with 1” I actually want wider. But as of now I can still tuck the wheels.

Looking forward to the swap I don’t know why there’s not more doing it. Honestly I feel the 80 only really needs a little more. And having a good ole Toyota v8 is just cool.

 

[PrydeFall]

FYI u can run 1” spacers. Sits almost flush and aftermarket wheels usually have an opening anyway where the studs would stick out. I run Toyota ifs spec wheels to 17x9 -12 with 1” I actually want wider. But as of now I can still tuck the wheels.

Looking forward to the swap I don’t know why there’s not more doing it. Honestly I feel the 80 only really needs a little more. And having a good ole Toyota v8 is just cool.

I originally had 1 inch spacers when I bought the wheels for the Sequoia. They worked on the front, not the rear. No where close. I could have probably made 1.25" spacers work with cutting down the studs.

These are the offending studs in this case. They hit the inside of the wheels.

Right on that portion there. These wheels do not have a hub opening large enough to fit through, the cap/hole is only like 2.5 or 3 inches wide. Like I said, maybe 1.25" spacers if I cut them down. But even if I replaced the studs with bolts, I don't think 1" spacers would have fit these particular wheels.

 

[PrydeFall]

In other news, I have an exciting potential development, and some info on the MPG front. I made a big trip up to the north of Washington, from the Tacoma area to the Port Townsend area. I filled up to the click before we left, and I kept track of miles travelled with google maps. I made a total of 231 miles driven, and when I got back I filled back up to the click, at the same gas station and even at the same pump. I realize that none of this is perfectly accurate, but more than good enough to get in the ballpark. I did have several stops along the route, including getting pulled over and a ticket just outside of Port Townsend ...and I let her idle for most of the time we were stopped. But overall, not too much time spent at idle. The fill-up upon returning was 18.086 Gallons. Which the math for those miles equals just over 12.77 Miles to the Gallon. It was pretty much entirely Highway driving, no traffic, at 60-70ish mph the whole time. So my Highway MPGs are over 12.5, which is nice. I am now keeping a miles log for city driving for this next tank to see what I get for that. I'll update again once that is done.

 

[PrydeFall]

As for the exciting potential development, the whole reason for the long trip north and back was to pick up these:

I picked up a pair of R150F Transmissions with the Transfer Cases.

One is fully working, every gear and hi/lo on the transfer. The other is stuck in reverse but the transfer works in hi/lo...

Either way, I am excited to look into 5-speed swapping now. It opens its own can of worms to do that, and double the expense if I want to 5-speed swap now with the 1FZ and then also with the 2UZ. But I think I am going to. I really would love to have the 5-speed as soon as I could. Also should save on fuel, better power to the ground, etc...

Of course it does have its own drawbacks, but I love having a manual, and the idea of the 80 being manual is so exciting to me. I think I saw that the 1FZ has a manual behind it offered elsewhere, of course not here. Also, not the R150, I think I saw it was the H150/151, which is not similar at all. But still, maybe an easier route to a flywheel/clutch vs custom. We shall see. I would also like to adapt to the HF2AV if I can to retain the center diff, but they are pass drop transfer cases, so I could make it work in the short term if needed.

If anyone has any info of doing this swap right off the bat, please let me know. I haven't looked into much, the opportunity to grab them for a decent price, plus the opportunity for a road trip with the wife in Lola was too much to pass up. So I pulled the trigger on them quick. If I have to fix and clean them up and sell them up without using them, oh well. I can definitely make some money off them if it comes to that.

 

[06reg4x4]

I originally had 1 inch spacers when I bought the wheels for the Sequoia. They worked on the front, not the rear. No where close. I could have probably made 1.25" spacers work with cutting down the studs.

These are the offending studs in this case. They hit the inside of the wheels.

Right on that portion there. These wheels do not have a hub opening large enough to fit through, the cap/hole is only like 2.5 or 3 inches wide. Like I said, maybe 1.25" spacers if I cut them down. But even if I replaced the studs with bolts, I don't think 1" spacers would have fit these particular wheels.

Ohh your talking hub studs not wheel studs. Gotcha!

 

[PrydeFall]

Ohh your talking hub studs not wheel studs. Gotcha!

Yeah, sorry if I was confusing.

 

[PrydeFall]

I think I saw that the 1FZ has a manual behind it offered elsewhere, of course not here. Also, not the R150, I think I saw it was the H150/151

Quoted from Supra Forums:

1FZ-FE & 2UZ-FE 5-Speed manual Inside

www.supraforums.com

1FZ-FE & 2UZ-FE 5-Spd manual Trany Part #'s Inside

Hi Guys,

After Reading This Thread : 1FZ-FE TH400 Adapter? - http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=472330

I've gone to the dealer and got for you guys the part number for 1FZ-FE 5 speed trans and 2UZ-FE 5 Speed Trans....

First they share the SAME trans.....The trans Code is H151...that on the Land Cruiser 100 seris.....

So here it's :

1FZ-FE : 4.5L I6

Trans : H151 5-Speed Manual.

A442F 4-Speed Auto.

BellHousing Part # : 31111 - 60302

Clutch Disc Part # : 31250 - 0w032

Clutch pressure Plate # : 31250 - 0w031

Clutch Throw Out Bearing # : 31230 - 60181

FlyWheel Part # : 13405 - 66030

FlyWhell Bolts (x10) : 90913 - 01021

2UZ-FE 4.7L V8

Trans : H151 5-speed Manual . The same Trans As The 1FZ-FE
Also the same clutch disc-prussrer plate and throw out bearing
Auto : ?

Bellhuosing Adapter Plate (Betwhen The H151 Trans And The Block) Part # :
31011-60010

FlyWhell Part # : 13405-50020

Pin (Must Repalce With New FW: 90250-10192

Fly Whell Bolts (x8) : 90910-02127

Clutch Disc Part # : 31250 - 0w032

Clutch pressure Plate # : 31250 - 0w031

Clutch Throw Out Bearing # : 31230 - 60181

---------

These Part #'S Are Taking From the dealer here in saudi arabia (yes i'm in KSA)....I'll E-mail Curt And He Will Chim In Later .....

Hope This Help,

Ali

If all of this is accurate, that will make so much of this process easier. It looks like there are part numbers for parts for both the 1FZ and the 2UZ...amazing.

I was already able to find a bunch of this stuff for sale online. So good signs!!!!

I wanted to post it up here for a reminder for myself as well as for general info dumping.

 

[PrydeFall]

Another thing I was paying attention to was my RPMs. I was consistently cruising around 2200RPM at 70MPH. Based on what I understand and putting it through a calculator, I believe that I may have 4.56 gears installed. If I am using the formula correctly.
(RPM x Tire Diameter Inches) / (Final Drive Ration x Transmission Gear Ratio x 336) = MPH
(2200 x 37) / (4.56 x 0.756 x 336) = 70.27MPH

So that's a bonus i guess. Although I would like to have 4.88s already. I can't complain about it.

 

[ZackR]

Are your speeds and miles traveled gps or from the speedometer? With 37" tires you'll need to correct if they are from the speedometer.

 

[COYS]

With the 2uz, what are you going to do about all the electronics on the dash like tach, warning lights, etc? I recall watching an old slee 2uz 80 conversion vid on YouTube years ago and it was a megaton of work to get it dialed in oem style. But then I’m presuming this ain’t that type of build.

I also understand that a made in Japan truck 2uz is different than a made in USA truck 2uz? Never chased this down myself since I’m not the type of owner with a proclivity toward heart transplants.

Pls disregard if too off course. Gracias!

P.S. fwiw my all new oem 1fzfe is measurably more powerful than the og 287k mile engine it replaced