FJ62 (1987) rebuild, and 1HZ diesel swap (1 Viewer)

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@Earwigg I may need you to elaborate. Is there a bezel mount on the two fenders that I replaced, that I need to recover from the old rusted panels?

I am keeping the square headlights, although I am missing a section of the chrome trim on the left side.
The tabs that the headlight surround and indicator/Park lite mount to on the gaurds are different.
A couple of spot welds hold it to the fender.
 
The tabs that the headlight surround and indicator/Park lite mount to on the gaurds are different.
A couple of spot welds hold it to the fender.
Ok cool. I will be working on it in the next two weeks... will check it out. Thanks for the heads-up
 
So... we have no more rust... Prepped and Primed for painting. I will probably wait to put the engine back in before spraying to avoid damaging the new paint job.

I was lucky the guys in our workshop had some downtime to work on this between other jobs. (my business partner's other business converts Toyota Hilux trucks into armoured Cash In Transit vehicles for moving cash around central Africa). I just covered their wages and materials which makes this job viable from a cost perspective. Thanks Mike :)

Very tempting to go with another colour... but I actually really like the white. Its going to be cooler in the bush and I will be less worried about the inevitable scratches from the devil thorns in the places we like to go.
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I
 
The tabs that the headlight surround and indicator/Park lite mount to on the gaurds are different.
A couple of spot welds hold it to the fender.
Thanks for this advice... The 60 headlight mounts definitely dont match the 62 headlights. We measured them up this week and will weld the original back on.

I am missing a piece of the left hand side shroud over the indicator. I will have to go and scour some scrap yards for a replacement.

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Finally got to disassemble the old 3F and H55F gearbox.

Wish I had searched mud before doing this... we didnt remove all the bolts inside before trying to remove the bell housing... took a bunch of time struggling with a chisel before we realised.

So steps we took:
- Removed the gearbox from the bell housing
- Undid the outer bolts for the Engine to Bell housing
- Removed the inner bolts for the clutch etc
- Had to rotate the flywheel to get to all 4 bolts (people say you can do this by hand... I ended up having to insert a crowbar into the flywheel teeth to get it to rotate so we could access the top 2 bolts
- Removed the final interior bolts holding the bellhousing onto the engine

The clutch plate was not in a good state, and the pilot bearing had no cover with half of the ball bearings missing.

Now what to do with the 3F - I was discussing turning it into a backup power generator. Our electricity supply is not stable here in South Africa. Or maybe I just sell it.

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One of your partner's armored 70 builds?
Damn that video is doing the rounds. I saw it this morning... and he told me about it over beers on Friday

Nope he only does the Toyota Hilux Builds. And mostly for North of the South African border. These are in a very different price bracket to what he makes.
 
Readying to start assembling the clutch onto the 1HZ... flywheel on and ready to start.

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Clutch is on. It was pretty straight forward... but I did just discover that pretty much nothing was re-usable from the old 3F, which was dissappointing. These were the parts I couldnt source while driving around Johannesburg. Going to have to find them next time I get to work on the truck.
1) I need 7 more of the high tensile Bell housing bolts - the 3F has way fewer bolts
2) The diesel starter motor is way bigger than the petrol one - need a new one
3) The clutch fork is different, as well as the little nobbin it levers off

I used the new fine spline / 21 spline input shaft to align the clutch. Now I have to get the input shaft into the gearbox, source the above parts and we are good to go. Baby steps.


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Ok so the H55F gearbox needs the old 3F 10 Spline input shaft removed and the new 21 spline for the 1HZ inserted.

Also the blue plastic boot for the gear lever is completely perished and half of it is missing. I managed to find the part number to replace that here on Mud, but am a little nervous about what else is perished on the seals, and where those bits of the boot have ended up inside the gearbox.

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But then when the engineer who builds the reactors for your plastic to energy business, happens to also build racing cars and offers to inspect your gear box for you, you do not say no! Mat of Nash Motorsport is checking it out... he offered to swap out the input shaft for me while he does the inspection... Thanks Mat. :cool::beer:

It was hard enough to pull that gear box out. I dont want to have to do it again. So its really great to have a pro looking at it, rather than me hacking my way through it as a complete noob. LOL.
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Hoping to get back in the workshop next week... things have been a bit busy.

I went past my local Toyota parts dealer here in Durban. Ordered all the final items for the clutch & bellhousing to gearbox assembly. I actually couldn't a 100% find the parts numbers for all of these here on ih8Mud, but the folks in the Toyota parts department were pretty helpful and printed this image off the system for me. I think these are correct for the 1HZ - H55F combo, and I have ordered the missing Clutch Fork, Release Lever, Boot, plus all the missing bolts to attach the bellhousing. But if anyone knows for sure if these are right let me know pls :)
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@CycloSteve put this list together for his 1HD-FT (turbo 1HZ build)... and it largely ties up for the assembly... was a good sense check for me
"Here is the final confirmation of what I have put together for my 1HD-FT to H55F setup. I went with the 300mm versions of the clutch and flywheel assembly.

  • H55F = 33030-60450 from LHM Toyota
  • H55F 21 Spline Input Shaft = 33311-60170 from LHM Toyota
  • H55F Shifter Assembly = 33530-60220 from LHM Toyota
  • 1HZ to H55 Bell housing = 31111-60230 from LHM Toyota
  • Clutch Fork = 31204-36110 from LHM Toyota
  • Clutch Fork Boot = 31126-60070 from LHM Toyota
  • Clutch Slave / Release Cylinder = 31470-60161 from LHM Toyota
  • Pilot Bearing = 90363-15017 from LHM Toyota
  • Thrust Bearing = 31230-60130 from LHM Toyota
  • 300mm 1HD-T Flywheel = 13405-17020 from Akella
  • 300mm Pressure Plate = 31210-60122 from LHM Toyota
  • 300mm 21 Spline Clutch Disk = Exedy NCD 34461 from Phoenix Friction"
 
Fly wheel dowel pins - have I left something important off before I carry on...?

I was just going through @davegonz 1HZ swap... and Picked up this little detail that he has 3 of them while I only had 1 when I added the clutch and pressure plate etc. Obviously its all bolted in nicely with the clutch components.

Do I need to disassemble and add these dowels before I add the bellhousing and mate the transmission next week? Or will the other bolts do the job?
I finally sourced the correct 8mm hardened dowel pins from McMaster-Carr and installed the flywheel.

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See below I only have the one dowel (the flywheel was already on the engine)

Also - can I add these without dis-assembly?
This is what it looks like right now with those other 6 bolt holes used for the pressure plate attachment

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I can't remember if I used all three. Are there through holes on the clutch for the dowel pins to go through?
 
I can't remember if I used all three. Are there through holes on the clutch for the dowel pins to go through?
Your photo linked above shows all three. I will only be back in the workshop on Thursday / Friday to be able to check. But looking at my pics it does seem like there are holes there for the three dowels in the clutch... Looked at the schematic on the Haynes manual, and it also shows all three dowels in the diagram.

I also just read somewhere that I should have been usings some locktite / thread locker on these clutch bolts??
 
Your photo linked above shows all three. I will only be back in the workshop on Thursday / Friday to be able to check. But looking at my pics it does seem like there are holes there for the three dowels in the clutch... Looked at the schematic on the Haynes manual, and it also shows all three dowels in the diagram.

I also just read somewhere that I should have been usings some locktite / thread locker on these clutch bolts??
There are supposed to be three dowels, they will help keep the clutch centered when it is in service and has all of the torque and spring pressure pushing it around.
I accidently bought extras when i did mine, if the shipping to the other side of the globe wasnt so expensive I'd send them to you.
 
There are supposed to be three dowels, they will help keep the clutch centered when it is in service and has all of the torque and spring pressure pushing it around. I accidently bought extras when i did mine, if the shipping to the other side of the globe wasnt so expensive I'd send them to you.

Ah good to know. It sounds like something worth doing!

Would you happen to have a part number, or description for the dowels?
 

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