FJ62 (1987) rebuild, and 1HZ diesel swap

[KwaTeebs]

out with the old carpets -- in with the new

literally just used the old one as a template and cut out the new one. Have only done the back so far. Will get to the front sometime once I find someone who can hem the edges like the original.

 

[KwaTeebs]

Well... I painted Nelly white again. I definitely lusted after something a bit more flashy, but for many good (and probably way too practical) reasons I decided to stick with white. No rust, fresh lick of paint and she is looking sexy.

Now I am on a big parts sourcing drive... and I just need to find time off to get back into the workshop to finish up the electrical and cooling systems, and you know those minor things like the brakes.

But for now. Check her out

 

[KwaTeebs]

Ok last of the body interior stuff done...

Did carpets for the front. Cleaned up what we could of the upholstry, and re-assembled the interior. Added the Grill back on, and the replacement fuel tank cover.

With the fresh paint, she is starting to look like a complete vehicle again.

 

[KwaTeebs]

Fuel tank re-furb done... no more rust issues anywhere on this rig from what I can tell.

Ready to start putting her all together now soon.

 

[KwaTeebs]

So I am finally able to get back into the workshop tomorrow.

- I have the air intake, and missing exhaust manifold parts I will be installing
- I have the starter motor I need to install
- I have the gear lever seal to install on the top of the transmission

Some assumptions I have made (*updates now that I have done it in red)

• Brake Lines
  • I assume I can use the ones currently in the FJ62
  • * no changes to the brake lines
• Throttle / accelerator cable
  • Should also be able to use the ones in my FJ62.
  • * swapped out an accelerator cable off an 80 series. The 3F one was not quite the right length
• Airbox
  • I have the new air intake manifold
  • I assume I can just route this up to my existing air box and filter.
  • *perfect fit Just used the FJ62 parts and melded up well.
• Belts for the pulleys / fans
  • I assume Can I just get everything standard for the 1HZ. Are there any idiosyncrasies with 1HZ / FJ62 combo that I need to be aware of?
  • *standard V belts for the 1HZ. Note the second belt is only needed if you have the AC connected.

I am a bit confused about a couple of items though and would love some input on it.

1. Brake Vacuum Canister
   • I have the vacuum pump, and brake booster and fluid reservoir.
   • But I see @kevinmrowland says a vacuum canister is needed to maintain pressure. I dont see this on my parts lists. Does anyone have a part number or an example they can share?
   • *there is a vacuum reservoir on the brake booster itself. I was advised this would suffice??!?
2. Fuel lines
   1. I am assuming I need new diesel fuel lines. Can I just get one off an HZJ7*?
   2. *No need for new fuel lines for diesel. I did replace all the old rubber ones just as a refresh. Note there is also a fuel return line on the diesel (same as 3f)
3. Radiator hoses and connectors
   1. Is there a kit from a specific vehicle that helps make this easier
   2. * I got the OEM 1HZ radiator hoses, and at first glance they were a perfect fit, but as we bolted everything in, its clear they are just too short. They connect but they are stretched beyond comfort... still working on a solution for this.

Anyway, I will be playing in the workshop tomorrow, and then more driving around for parts. My plan is to have this vehicle done up fully by early December. It seems doable at this stage. Its only been 9 months since I started this restoration LOL.

 

[KwaTeebs]

I remember someone on mud saying that they wouldn't recommend the 1HZ diesel swap without having a donor vehicle. LOL I have discovered why. There are so many ancillary items to source and connect up. The good thing is that by the time I am done almost everything will either be reconditioned, renewed or new. Plus I will definitely know how it all fits together. I am learning a lot.

Found a guy on the West Rand of Johannesburg with a large stockpile of 70 series cruisers in various states in his yard and effectively a warehouse of cruiser parts off wrecks. So I managed to source a large pile of needed 1HZ ancillary parts in one go, and not having to buy all of them new from Toyota has saved me a lot of money. I also found someone literally 2 hours in the other direction who could sell me a passenger "oh s***" handle and the headlight bezel that is broken on my vehicle. The rest of the items I sourced from Toyota like bolts, and gaskets etc. It was a successful week of parts sourcing.

The used items took a fair bit of degreaser and some scrubbing with a metal scourer, but I think most of the items are in a good state. Time will tell. The AC idler adjustor bolt has a bit of rust, otherwise nothing I can see to worry about.

This was just one store room of many that was filled with parts. He calls himself Mr Landcruiser Africa, and he is sitting on a goldmine.

 

[KwaTeebs]

Put a new pivot cap on the gear shift lever, and a fresh seat / seal.

Had to cut out the carpet to allow insertion of both levers.

The high/low transfer lever was a bit more complicated because the control arm and bracket had been bolted on the wrong side of the spindle, and could not rotate to clip the cube in. Since I didn't fix it before I dropped the engine and the gearbox in, I had to strip that unit and put it back together under the car which was entertaining. I mean come on... who keeps a 27mm spanner? Luckily Mike's guys had one in the workshop. So got the high low mechanism connected up.

Then discovered the screws were too short with the carpet thickness, so was a bit of a mission getting it all finished up as we had to find new screws.

 

[KwaTeebs]

I had to make space for the starter motor, because there was a bash plate that was blocking installation. This is marginally wider than the 3F it seems.

It just covers this small pipe, which I assume is to drain water coming down the windscreen and gaps.

The current plan is to trim the bash plate down so it fits alongside the starter motor but still protects the drain hose.

 

[KwaTeebs]

First real hurdle. I remember reading there were two different aircon compressor brackets for the 1hz, and this impacted the pulleys lining up.

Well I bought the wrong one. The bolt holes don't align to my 10P15C Denso AC compressor.

The bracket has 100mm spacing (from the centre of the left bolt hole to the right) on the top two bolts, and 83mm spacing on the bottom.
The compressor is 90mm spaced on the top two, and bottom are 78mm.

I really hope I can just find another bracket, because I don't want to have to get a different compressor.

Only other alternative I can see is... if you line up the two right hand bolts, it does appear that the pulley lines up. Then We could explore how we modify the bracket to secure the left hand bolts. This is second prize of course.

Does anyone have any advice?

 

[KwaTeebs]

Ok so the guy I got the AC Compressor Bracket from has the other 1HZ bracket with the narrow bolt pattern. He has graciously offered to do a straight swap for me. I just need to arrange a courier. I can then pick up a couple of parts at the same time that I am missing on the accelerator cable assembly.

This is the longer bracket on the top and smaller bracket on the bottom (suited to DENSO 10p15c compressor)

Measurements of the shorter bracket bolts

Mr Landcruiser Africa living up to his name.

 

[KwaTeebs]

Work has gotten in the way of the updates... but I have gotten quite a bit done in the past 6 weeks.

First total fail on the Aircon compressor. We got the bracket with the correct bolt pattern, and it fits the engine and the compressor, but the pulley does not line up. It is 7mm off as pointed out on this forum elsewhere.

So mine is the 10p15c. The aircon guys thought they could extend with another pulley... but it didnt work.
His suggestion is buy a second hand one that fits, or buy a new 10pa15c Denso unit which is slightly longer.

Does anyone else have a solution that doesnt involve me getting a new unit?

Ironically the pulley lined up with that other incorrect bracket, but it only would allow the front two bolts. I guess a third option is adapt the old bracket to secure the back bolts.

 

[KwaTeebs]

But otherwise - pretty much all the necessary engine parts are in place. I will run through everything installed over the next couple of posts.

Air intake manifold installed. Plus the exhaust manifold, and heat shield, and all the pulleys.

New Accelerator cable from the 1HZ installed
- Took it out of an 80 series. Was pretty much a perfect fit. I had to replace the stopper bolt under the pedal to allow a deeper push, but otherwise it lined up perfectly.
- I had the 80 series pedal available, but I didnt need to use it (plus it would have required drilling into the firewall as the bolt pattern is not the same)
- I did get the dial & cable (looks like a choke knob, but I believe is a hand throttle for slow low range crawling) from the 80, but couldnt see how it would fit into my engine bay.

All belts and pulleys are in... alongside the fan viscose... obviously cannot attach the AC compressor ones yet.

Power steering Oil can installed... Still needs to be plumbed up. The Oil can was on the drivers side on the 3f, and is now on the passenger side, so I need to somehow run a line across the engine bay.

 

[KwaTeebs]

Air intake box installed. I got a new OEM toyota elbow because my last one was cracked. It was a bit of a fight to get it in there, and it is touching the Clutch booster fluid intake lid. So hopefully it wont cause a problem by knocking that lid off. Time will tell.

and then found a spot for the Fuel Filters (fresh filters on both). I got the primer pump and brackets from Mr LandCruiser Africa. The arm / hinge for the bonnet blocks the normal 70 series mounting spot on the right hand side, so I placed it on the left side. The bracket is not quite a snug fit there, so we will fabricate up something to fill the gap. I have not tried it yet, but I may be able to bend the entire bracket so I can bolt in the far side.

I had to move the AC receiver dryer? from that spot. I will find somewhere else to place that item.

And then for the fuel lines. The input and return lines run on the RHD drivers side, and the Injector Pump (& filters) are on the left hand side.
I purchased some soft fuel lines (10mm for input line, and 8mm for return line). My intention is to run these along the top of the engine bay. with some clips like in the pic below. Is this a bad idea?

 

[KwaTeebs]

Then I installed the Fan and its starting to look fairly complete in the engine bay.

One thing I have not got right though is the Fan Shroud / Cowling.

All the suggestions of just flipping the one I removed off the 3f upside down dont seem to work. Its alignment gets shifted off to the side, and I am not sure how to fix that as the bolts dont line up. It also feels like the shroud may be a bit of a tight squeeze for the 1HZ fan (its possible I was not holding it straight, but there is limited clearance for the blades).

I wonder if I could just buy a shroud off an old 70 series / 80 series and if it could fit into that slot?

This is holding me back from plumbing the cooling systems, so its probably my most urgent item to find a solution for. Otherwise I would need to find someone to fabricate a fan shroud, but its not obvious who is good to do this.

 

[roscoFJ73]

First total fail on the Aircon compressor. We got the bracket with the correct bolt pattern, and it fits the engine and the compressor, but the pulley does not line up. It is 7mm off as pointed out on this forum elsewhere

You have a mixture of 70 series and 80 series parts. The 80 series has more room between the engine and radiator, so the aircon unit, fan etc is further forward.

 

[KwaTeebs]

You have a mixture of 70 series and 80 series parts. The 80 series has more room between the engine and radiator, so the aircon unit, fan etc is further forward.

Thanks @roscoFJ73 - so my compressor is just short by 7mm.

Does that mean there may be another 1hz bracket that would be suitable here out of a 70 series? I have tried two already, so possibly a third exists.

To repharase my question... do you think I can find another suitable bracket, or am I looking at buying a new compressor?

 

[roscoFJ73]

Does that mean there may be another 1hz bracket that would be suitable here out of a 70 series?

Im only aware of 2 brackets, but there may be a thrid. I went through this with someone else years ago, and I come to the conclusion it was about 7m-10m difference.
What is the toyota part number on the compressor? Are you sure its from a landcruiser?

 

[KwaTeebs]

Im only aware of 2 brackets, but there may be a thrid. I went through this with someone else years ago, and I come to the conclusion it was about 7m-10m difference.
What is the toyota part number on the compressor? Are you sure its from a landcruiser?

Thanks for the replies. Yes its definitely a Cruiser. I pulled the compressor off my old 3F engine on this FJ62 which has a very different bracket.

Its a DENSO 10p15c. and its exactly 7mm short on the pulley.

At this stage my plan is to buy a new compressor -
I measured it with the aircon guys, and the 10pA15c is slightly longer, and it seems thats the one we need. I will just make sure its the right fit on the day I pick it up and return it if its not right.

I am more concerned with getting my fan cowling sorted out right now tbh. Its going to require some tap dancing to make that work.

 

[roscoFJ73]

I pulled the compressor off my old 3F engine

I used the compressor off my 3F when I put the 1HZ in the FJ73. It fitted perfect with the 1HZ bracket. Maybe the FJ62 is like the 80 series with the radiator further away from the engine than the 7* series.
Just looking in the parts manual and the FJ73 aircon compressor and I can see it is different to the FJ62 in the way it mounts to the engine

 

[KwaTeebs]

Prop shafts off for a checkup and balancing.

We really struggled to remove the main prop shaft when we pulled the old engine and the gearbox... the shaft had no play to slide it off the bolts. Once we did eventually remove it there was way too much play afterwards, so sending them off for a refurb.