This particular bag is sold as a Hino part, but the number is the same for the Toyota part.
Toyota number is 90250-10192
FJ62 (1987) rebuild, and 1HZ diesel swap
- Thread starter KwaTeebs
- Start date
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- 1hz fj60 fj62 landcruiser
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Toyota number is 90250-10192
- Thread starter
- #42
perfect - ordered some today!
- Thread starter
- #43
Back on the build this week.
I received my gearbox back from Matt, who very kindly checked it out, changed the seals and swapped out the input shaft for me. Its looking great.
The radiator had a re-core rebuild, and it also looking good.
The aircon radiator had to be turfed out though. Need to buy a new unit.
Mr Radiator
Rebuilt radiator
aircon radiator to the scrapyard
I received my gearbox back from Matt, who very kindly checked it out, changed the seals and swapped out the input shaft for me. Its looking great.
The radiator had a re-core rebuild, and it also looking good.
The aircon radiator had to be turfed out though. Need to buy a new unit.
Mr Radiator
Rebuilt radiator
aircon radiator to the scrapyard
- Thread starter
- #44
Next we put the gearbox, bellhousing, engine together. I had already done the clutch and pressure plate before.
Bell housing clutch fork
Then to add the gearbox to the engine / bellhousing
But then we have an engine to put in the truck
- First i replaced the two missing dowels on the fly wheel (previous post). They just hammered in there nicely.
Bell housing clutch fork
- Added the Clutch slave cylinder to the outside of the bellhousing
- Inserted the pivot bolt inside
- Inserted the clutch fork and dust boot through the input hole
- Clipped the fork to the pivot bolt (after adding a bit of high temp grease)
- Clipped the thrust bearing to the pivot fork (also with high temp grease)
- and then bolted the bellhousing onto the engine... there were a lot of bolts and they are on there fast now.
Then to add the gearbox to the engine / bellhousing
- Added some grease to the 21 spline input shaft
- put some blocks under the engine and gearbox to get them level and at the same height
- shimmied the gearbox in so the input shaft lined in with the bearing
- and then kicked and shoved and grunted till they started getting close together
- had to rotate the input shaft so it lined up with the clutch teeth
- more shoving and pushing and we could get the bolts in...
But then we have an engine to put in the truck
- Thread starter
- #45
Now for the interesting part of getting the engine in the truck,
We got the engine level with a spirit level, and put the angle finders on the engine mount brackets. 34/35 degrees angle.
hoisted the engine up on the gantry and started lowering it down to get a sense of where everything could fit together.
Its clear the engine mounts are going to have to move... we will grind them out in the morning
and had to remove the exhaust manifold...
Has anyone got a picture they can share of the standard 1HZ exhaust manifold? This is clearly someone's custom job and I dont think it is going to fit as it jutts out so far to the side.
We got the engine level with a spirit level, and put the angle finders on the engine mount brackets. 34/35 degrees angle.
Its clear the engine mounts are going to have to move... we will grind them out in the morning
and had to remove the exhaust manifold...
Has anyone got a picture they can share of the standard 1HZ exhaust manifold? This is clearly someone's custom job and I dont think it is going to fit as it jutts out so far to the side.
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- Thread starter
- #46
ok - it started getting interesting quite quickly.
Once the exhaust manifold was removed we could lower it in to the vehicle. The engine mounts are in the complete wrong place. We will grind those off and are picking up steel in the morning to fabricate up a new mount.
So this is our approach... can anyone sense check if this makes sense.
We will use the 34.5 degree angle to make sure the engine mounts align.
The cross member gear box bolts are close to aligning. Our theory is if we get this lined up and the shift lever centred we are in a good place. Hope that logic is sound!?
Once the exhaust manifold was removed we could lower it in to the vehicle. The engine mounts are in the complete wrong place. We will grind those off and are picking up steel in the morning to fabricate up a new mount.
So this is our approach... can anyone sense check if this makes sense.
- Lowered the engine and gearbox into the vehicle
- slowly rolled the vehicle forward as we jacked up the gear box to the get the lever input in vaguely the right place
- jacked it up some more so we could re-insert the cross-member
- Next we are going to get the gearbox / cross member bolts aligned
- based off that alignment we will then decide where the new engine mounts need to be
We will use the 34.5 degree angle to make sure the engine mounts align.
The cross member gear box bolts are close to aligning. Our theory is if we get this lined up and the shift lever centred we are in a good place. Hope that logic is sound!?
Since you have a later year 60 with the extended tail housing on the 4 speed, you should be good to go. Everything should line up once the crossmember is bolted in. The transmission mount should locate the back half of the assembly so all you should need to do is decide on the angle to set it at before mocking up your mounts.
Here's what the original exhaust manifold looks like. I believe you can get them new, but they are a two piece manifold so you will need to get all of the seal rings too.
- Thread starter
- #48
Ah we had a good afternoon on the truck. Thanks for the advice @The Machinist - I am definitely going to have to replace the exhaust manifold it just does not fit.
We cut out the old mounts, and using a bottle jack on the front axel, and some kicking managed to get the cross member bolts to line up perfectly.
We bolted the gear box to the cross member, and got it level on the spirit level. Slight incline at the front. I think the bonnet / hood should have enough space to close. (I hope at least)
Then we measured the angles again, and made some cardboard templates... And we found some nice 6mm scrap metal to make up the new mounts. Hopefully will have the engine mounted in there tomorrow!!
We cut out the old mounts, and using a bottle jack on the front axel, and some kicking managed to get the cross member bolts to line up perfectly.
We bolted the gear box to the cross member, and got it level on the spirit level. Slight incline at the front. I think the bonnet / hood should have enough space to close. (I hope at least)
Then we measured the angles again, and made some cardboard templates... And we found some nice 6mm scrap metal to make up the new mounts. Hopefully will have the engine mounted in there tomorrow!!
- Thread starter
- #49
I pulled this old Aircon compressor off of my 3F engine. Its a Denso 10p15c,
I believe that it should work on the 1HZ from what I can tell... and was one of the suggestions on another thread
It also seems like there is a bolt above the alternator that would make sense as a spot for the bracket. Does anyone know a part number for the bracket? Or have any advice on that front. Thanks
OK EDIT - I found some pics on @davegonz build which shows the bracket. I am looking for one of these
I believe that it should work on the 1HZ from what I can tell... and was one of the suggestions on another thread
It also seems like there is a bolt above the alternator that would make sense as a spot for the bracket. Does anyone know a part number for the bracket? Or have any advice on that front. Thanks
OK EDIT - I found some pics on @davegonz build which shows the bracket. I am looking for one of these
Part number for the compressor bracket: 8843160150
PartSouq Auto Parts Around the World - https://partsouq.com/en/catalog/genuine/unit?c=Toyota&ssd=%24%2AKwGKvq-hzfvJ987M-uaY39LG5uH_joGMjZ-Bs8Obyp2Cm-Sezc2QmoOKwsbM19ihlNHb0Nqdgo2SnoeGl5qDnIePiIeezc2a1puEnYCOjIrS3LKaxMDJ0d3-x8OMkJqDnp2PgY-N0t_RlJmc1sybhJzDv7Lq-POdlJmc0YLNyZib9uXyjon0t8K-_eyck5ibyN_D1dPWzNLTlJmc2oiL0YKZj4nFAAAAAKh5p3Y%24&vid=0&cid=4&uid=328188&q=
PartSouq Auto Parts Around the World - https://partsouq.com/en/catalog/genuine/unit?c=Toyota&ssd=%24%2AKwGKvq-hzfvJ987M-uaY39LG5uH_joGMjZ-Bs8Obyp2Cm-Sezc2QmoOKwsbM19ihlNHb0Nqdgo2SnoeGl5qDnIePiIeezc2a1puEnYCOjIrS3LKaxMDJ0d3-x8OMkJqDnp2PgY-N0t_RlJmc1sybhJzDv7Lq-POdlJmc0YLNyZib9uXyjon0t8K-_eyck5ibyN_D1dPWzNLTlJmc2oiL0YKZj4nFAAAAAKh5p3Y%24&vid=0&cid=4&uid=328188&q=
- Thread starter
- #51
Pat did an excellent job of welding up new engine mounts off his templates using 8mm x 100mm steel from the scrap yard. Made sure to add the full length extended bolt hole otherwise there would not have been space to drop the engine in at those angles.
We measured it up one last time, marked the chassis with chalk, then dropped the cross-member off again so we could raise the engine and weld in the new mounts. They are looking strong.
We measured it up one last time, marked the chassis with chalk, then dropped the cross-member off again so we could raise the engine and weld in the new mounts. They are looking strong.
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- #52
We have an engine!!
Dropping the 1hz engine onto the new mounts… we made two mistakes, which made the process longer than it needed to be, so I will share these here.
Freshly reconditioned 1HZ, and H55F transmission.
Dropping the 1hz engine onto the new mounts… we made two mistakes, which made the process longer than it needed to be, so I will share these here.
- From measuring, we left the engine mount cushion bushings on the chassis mounts (instead of on the mounts attached to the engine). This makes your job 10x harder if not impossible, because the engine mounts on the chassis have the elongated holes allowing enough play to allow the bolts access at an angle that is not the final resting angle. So we returned the engine cushions to the engine itself for fitment. Took us a while to realise duh, but that helped loads.
- We also forgot what we had done to line the engine for measuring the first time… Which is, we got the gearbox underside bolt holes lined up with the cross-member underneath and used that to guide the rest of the placement of the engine itself. It removed the weird corked out twist that we were fighting against. With a bit of kicking, using the jack and twisting from underneath we managed to get all the cross-member bolts lined up.
Freshly reconditioned 1HZ, and H55F transmission.
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- #53
Been a while since my last update... I had to get back into my day job, and then we went into the craziest run in South Africa, of a COVID third wave lockdown (worst one yet), and then political, and pandemic poverty related rioting and looting. Crazy times. I have made some progress on the bodywork and I will share this here 
COVID protocols in the workshop
COVID protocols in the workshop
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- #54
Happy to report that the vehicle is officially rust free...
Grind out the rust, and cut out any bad steel, and welded in replacements where possible. Everything treated with rust-inhibiter.
Replaced the two front fenders where the rust was worst with rust-free panels off a donor FJ60.
Long may it last!! Its a big difference from where we started
Before
After
Grind out the rust, and cut out any bad steel, and welded in replacements where possible. Everything treated with rust-inhibiter.
Replaced the two front fenders where the rust was worst with rust-free panels off a donor FJ60.
Long may it last!! Its a big difference from where we started
Before
After
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- #55
Ok so sound and heat insulation installed. I used a product that came recommended from the UK called SilentCoat. It was half the price of the American product available here (that I cannot remember the brand name of, but I have read about a number of places).
Stripped all the carpets and the felt beneath it. Gave it a good scrub and put a shed load of this butyl lining.
Cleaning the felt liner in progress.
Looking clean. This OEM liner was in pretty good condition, so we just left it in there. Not 100% sure why people strip this off, unless its damaged?
Insulation everywhere
Stripped all the carpets and the felt beneath it. Gave it a good scrub and put a shed load of this butyl lining.
Cleaning the felt liner in progress.
Looking clean. This OEM liner was in pretty good condition, so we just left it in there. Not 100% sure why people strip this off, unless its damaged?
Insulation everywhere
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- #56
She is primed and ready to paint... 1 step at a time
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- #57
So it seems that the fan from the 3f is not going to work on the 1HZ engine. The blades are too close, and bash on the pulleys.
Does anyone know if I could use a spacer and keep the old fan, or do I need to get a new fan for the 1HZ?
I am also looking for a part number for the 1HZ air intake that crosses over the top of the engine, but I should be able to get this from my local Toyota dealer.
Its touching, and the fan wont rotate. Possibly a spacer? More likely a new one needed.
Does anyone know if I could use a spacer and keep the old fan, or do I need to get a new fan for the 1HZ?
I am also looking for a part number for the 1HZ air intake that crosses over the top of the engine, but I should be able to get this from my local Toyota dealer.
Its touching, and the fan wont rotate. Possibly a spacer? More likely a new one needed.
Do both fans turn in the same direction? I seem to remember some landcruiser engines are different in that regard
The metal or rubber bits?
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- #60
Thanks Rosco.
The metal bits... I have the air intake manifold... I dont have the Metal piece that runs from the right hand side (looking at it from front) over the top of the head to the left side. See my marked up pic below
I am assuming (hoping) I will be able to use the rubber bits and air filter box from the 3F engine.
Then on the fan spinning direction. I have no idea which direction it turns. Been busy with other stuff and have not had a chance to play around. I do know that this fan is a good 1-2 cm too close to the engine... so something has to change