FJ40 Full Floater Axle Build (IH8C-CLIPS) (1 Viewer)

[LAMBCRUSHER]

Again- I'm no expert, but I'd say that a solid weld is all that is needed- if anything, just making sure to not overheat/underheat is key. I made a total of 3 passes(with a 120 volt buzz box) which over a long period of time and distance traveled/hard bumps/washboards/big tires and a heavy foot, have proven to be enough. I was concerned at the onset, but after many many miles without a hint of a problem, my mind has been set at ease regarding this axle mod. My feeling on the addition of metal, is that it is one more place for rust to start unnoticed. I thought about adding some 3/8 bar gussets, but never did... Again- I am no expert- Dave may agree with you more than me.../this has been MY experience, however...

 

[jstncse]

Warping those flanges is nearly impossible. I tacked mine in and insured that everything was square then welded a 1/4 of the way around 180* from each weld switched sides and repeat. Once a root pass was done on both flanges, I capped it with a filet weld without much regard for heat. I did still alternate sides but I was done with the welding in less than an hour.

 

[peesalot]

Just curious, IIRC you can not get a 35 spline axle thru a Toyota spindle so are you using a 30 spline custom axle , splined on both ends , with a seal surface machined in the right spot ? what material and axle maker ?

 

[Stumpalama]

Just curious, IIRC you can not get a 35 spline axle thru a Toyota spindle so are you using a 30 spline custom axle , splined on both ends , with a seal surface machined in the right spot ? what material and axle maker ?

Yes, exactly as you described. I reached out to RCV and they said they can do it and @J Mack posted a picture of the custom axle RCV made for his build.

I am working on the measurements for my axle now. I need to figure out the spline length for the outer drive slug connection.

 

[peesalot]

I am sure RCV knows but you wanna make sure they use the Toyota 30 spline pressure angle on the diff end . Not sure what pressure angle TG has on the pucks but I would guess it's the same as the other Toyota stuff, may not be though.

 

[Stumpalama]

I am sure RCV knows but you wanna make sure they use the Toyota 30 spline pressure angle on the diff end . Not sure what pressure angle TG has on the pucks but I would guess it's the same as the other Toyota stuff, may not be though.

Good to know... I didn't know that. I plan to ship them my drive slugs so they can match the fit exactly.

 

[67azcruizr]

It's now time to get rid of those c-clips forever and move up to a full floater with chromoly axle shafts.


why didn't you just install Chromo Semi Shafts?

 

[Stumpalama]

Because noone is making them...

 

[J Mack]

I am sure RCV knows but you wanna make sure they use the Toyota 30 spline pressure angle on the diff end . Not sure what pressure angle TG has on the pucks but I would guess it's the same as the other Toyota stuff, may not be though.

Good to know... I didn't know that. I plan to ship them my drive slugs so they can match the fit exactly.

Don’t assume RCV knows anything or the sales staff gives the engineering staff all the info they need to make your shafts correctly. Get prints “before” they cut steel and confirm your numbers.

I am by no means saying I’m unhappy with RCV or the final set of shafts they sent but luckily Cruiser Outfitters was the middle man with my deal or I believe the outcome could have been very different.

 

[fountainhead]

Because noone is making them...

And, because they break too! I broke a long side Poly shaft a couple of weeks ago. While it didn't grenade like the stock shafts do, the splines twisted a ton before it snapped clean. So much so that the we had to beat on the broken part of the stub from the outside just to move it inboard enough in the carrier to remove the c clip. Then, of course, with the c clip removed it wouldn't move back out of the carrier. So we had to pull the short side shaft, run a rod through the housing and carrier and beat out the stub from the opposite side. A fun little trail repair.

I love this thread and can't wait to see how it all finishes up...really eager to to see how the studless hubs work out for you.

Nice work!

 

[Stumpalama]

It's coming together slowly. Hopefully, I'll make some significant progress in the next week or so. I pick up the alignment bar today and ordered the 3/8"x 1.75" fine pitch bolts and Stover lock nuts from Fastenal.

I have a bunch of measurements for the studless hub which, are probably worthless, but I took them as I was trying to figure out what my axle measurements should be and whether or not I should have a groove cut in the end of the axle for a c-clip, or should I just have a threaded hole in the end of the axle for the bolt and washer that came with the TG kit. It is probably a case of 6 in one, 1/2 dozen in the other.
I am assuming that the design of the hub cap is such that it prevents the axle from walking out by retaining the drive slug, so I just have to make sure my total travel of the drive slug (3/16") + the axle end + spline depth does not exceed 11/16" (depth of the cap).

 

[fountainhead]

I'm not following your 'total travel' calculation.

If the machined snap ring groove in the hub is designed such that, when installed, the cap is butted up next to the drive slug, shouldn't drive slug travel be eliminated?

 

[Stumpalama]

I probably did not explain it well enough. The cap's interior height (from base where it sets in the hub body) is 11/16" and there is 3/16" of an inch between the outer face of the slug and the base of the cap.
Does that clear it up? Perhaps pictures would better explain this.

 

[fountainhead]

Makes perfect sense. I'm just surprised the assembly is allowed that much movement.

 

[Stumpalama]

Yeah, i'm not familiar with drive slugs, so I have no point of reference. It is interesting that they make the cap so deep, it seems the D60 ones are flatter and about flush.

 

[White Stripe]

Man I totally would have just went with an 80 rear axle, all you would have to do is put perches on it, new traction bar mounts, swap the diff, drill the driveshaft flange, connect the brake line and put some shock mounts on it. About 6 hours of work and 400 bucks. Oh and add about 2 hours to cut all the fj80 mounts off and clean up the housing.

 

[Stumpalama]

Maybe so, but then my rear is way wider than my front.
It isn't that much work, I'm just slow and trying to fit this in with the rest of the craziness that come with a busy life.

 

[fountainhead]

Torching all the brackets off an OEM rear 80 housing and grinding it all down smooth is no joke...2 hours is a bit of a stretch. And, in the end, you still have a hub stud based FF setup.

To me, the most interesting part of this project is that he's going to test the studless hubs in a rear FF application. I, for one, am pretty fired up to see how it all works out.

 

[pjohnson]

Interested to see how the brakes line up with the FF Flange and the TG hub. The TG hub is intended for the front, but theoretically it all should line up since the FF flange is meant to utilize front axle parts.

Lots of pics please!

 

[Stumpalama]

The TG FF flange "should" have the identical disc mounting measurements. I will be measuring them against the stock hubs.