Builds FitzJ60 1983 FJ60 Build

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Man I need to schedule this with some of the guys in my club. I got some touch-up work to do on my truck after spraying last fall. Might as well knock this out while I am at it since I will have the paint and whatnot already (and have most of the paint prep stuff anyways).
 
Hey Nook, I'm looking to gather parts for a rear 80 axle. I was wondering what Wilwood prop valve you used, p/n ? I liked the way you set up your brake lines so I'll be doing all this slowly. Any tips? Thanks.
 
C54E41A6-B7C7-4FCA-B468-74FC44E76A8D.webp

He’s what I bought and a new master cylinder for disc brakes from @cruiseroutfit.
 
The part @Hojack posted above is what I used.

I upgraded the booster to a dual diaphragm booster off a Supra.

And a brake MC off a Supra as well. Many use the booster and MC of the FJ80 w/o ABS with good success.

For grinding on the 80 axle I used PFERD cutting discs. They worked really well.

I spent a lot of time learning about brake lines. If I had to do it again I would get a better brake flare tool. I used a $30 one and I would have easily gotten back 12-24 hours of my life with a better one.

Buying the lines pre-made for the aprox lengths you need would also make things possibly go faster.

When you tack the perches take care to do it with the weight of the rig on the suspension. Then pull the axle and burn them on well.

Don’t try and drive over to a buddies and do this in one night, and then drive home the next day. It’s a lot of work.
 
I seen your post of the prop valve and was wondering what was the brass adapters you had screwed into the prop valve. did it take the inverted flare type or did you have to reflare a new type of flare on the old brake lines in order to fit properly?
I'll get all the brackets cut off and rebuild the brakes but will have to get someone to weld in the perches. Thanks for your help.
 
As a data point, I’m running 80 series discs front & rear, with a non-ABS 80 master & no proportioning valve and I have yet to lock up the rears.
 
@pandasfj i’d run the city racer proportioning valve to eliminate the extra fitting.

It would be a cleaner install and one less thing to deal with/bugger up. @gt7058a take note yo!
 
As a data point, I’m running 80 series discs front & rear, with a non-ABS 80 master & no proportioning valve and I have yet to lock up the rears.

You haven’t tried hard enough then
 
Oil Galley plug done a couple weekends ago with a crew from the Seattle Cruiserheads. Feels good to know that oil won’t start spewing out at an inopportune time.

Photo shameless stollen from @gt7058a as his photo came out much better.

EAE2210E-18C0-4659-BA36-E8CD85778297.jpeg


We also spent the day cranking out new battery /ground cables.

16EBB007-E571-4FA0-98B6-43F3616A80F1.jpeg
 
Oil Galley plug done a couple weekends ago with a crew from the Seattle Cruiserheads. Feels good to know that oil won’t start spewing out at an inopportune time.

Photo shameless stollen from @gt7058a as his photo came out much better.

View attachment 1985868

We also spent the day cranking out new battery /ground cables.

View attachment 1985872
That battery/ground cable is legit. How'd you make it?
 
That battery/ground cable is legit. How'd you make it?

The beers were talking last night.

Hydraulic crimper, lugs, 1/0 welding cable, protective sheathing, and marine adhesive heat shrink was all from amazon. PM and I can send you links to everything.

Your pretty local to me, so if you want to borrow the crimper your welcome to it. I have another friend in Ballard who has one as well.
 
The beers were talking last night.

Hydraulic crimper, lugs, 1/0 welding cable, protective sheathing, and marine adhesive heat shrink was all from amazon. PM and I can send you links to everything.

Your pretty local to me, so if you want to borrow the crimper your welcome to it. I have another friend in Ballard who has one as well.
Thanks - that's super helpful. Will PM you.
 
The beers were talking last night.

Hydraulic crimper, lugs, 1/0 welding cable, protective sheathing, and marine adhesive heat shrink was all from amazon. PM and I can send you links to everything.

Your pretty local to me, so if you want to borrow the crimper your welcome to it. I have another friend in Ballard who has one as well.

Bring it to SAS and have a cable session
 
Moving forward on the split case.

F134DA9A-284F-419E-861B-B439161678F9.jpeg


Vaccum actuated case was off a HJ61 needed to drill out the blank boss up to 1/2 bit then tap with a M15 x 1.5 in order to hold the ball dent on the AA shift rod.

DB86EEF4-9FEB-41F2-B4A9-38DC9C70CABD.jpeg



721AF25E-3F4C-4598-AD80-7CED07C15874.jpeg


Don’t drive the split pin in to hold the shift fork on backwards. They aren’t much fun to back out and re-use.
 
Is that just a core that you’re rebuilding and installing? Looks like twin sticks?
 
Is that just a core that you’re rebuilding and installing? Looks like twin sticks?

Yah, hope to have this 38mm converted to twin sticks and mates to the h55.

Drop and swap. 🍻

Plus new RMS, all clutch parts, & oil pan gasket.

The plan is to get this finished in June.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom