Finally Bought my first CRUISER! (1 Viewer)

[dkyuss]

Little bit of painting today.
Couple cracks in headlight bezels and TOYOTA sign so mix of fiberglass webbing and JBWeld and good enough!
The good, bad and ugly!

Three layer paint.
Primer, a plastic bonding paint

Then rocker guard

Then topcoat

 

[dkyuss]

Of course the oilpan needed a little TLC as well. Inside is like new (I see I need to wire wheel a couple drips through the bolt holes).

And same treatment to the outside with Zinc primer instead of the plastic bonding paint

And so after many careful measurements of the cam journals, I have determined the front cam bearing is sitting 'cock eyed' in the bore. Not too sure if there is corrosion or debris on the head casting or if my puller was not perfectly true when installing. An adjustment of the bearing position by 1/16 of an inch (oil holes in bearing are flush on one edge now instead of concentric with head casting) and all looks good. .0017 oil clearance on the front bearing and .0013" on the middle (.0012 is minimum). Cam shaft fully installs now and time for a !

And is gonna kill me when (if) she finds out I think I just bought a complete 1986 3B! Ha

 

[dkyuss]

Prepping prior to receipt of my new to me 3B....
Water pump feels solid so I will just clean the outside and call it good. I have a spare that feels just as good condition as well!
From this,

Little bit of wire wheel (man I need to get a sand blaster to satisfy my OCD)

And another test run of the carbon graphite dry lube. It looks sexy! not sure how it will last long term as far as rust /gunk build up prevention but I will find out. I do not see how it could hurt though...

And then did the same process to the aluminum intake manifold... Aluminum will not be as porous as cast iron to absorb the graphite, but looks pretty fine so call it a test and lets see what it will do.

 

[dkyuss]

Intake is all clean,

Timing cover all buttoned up,

Oil pan, Check!

Oh ya... gonna be drivin soon!

 

[hj 60]

Looks very good and new, the tolerances you mention are to much technical for me but I guess you have the fsm and you don't pick a number between 1 and 50 like some do
The good lesson is that when a part is off the cruiser we all must use that opportunity to clean and paint because it is worth every effort in time, money and rust prevention.

Reminds me I have to turn my drive-shaft now one side is released anyway (sliding part next to diff not next to transfer)

 

[dkyuss]

Looks very good and new, the tolerances you mention are to much technical for me but I guess you have the fsm and you don't pick a number between 1 and 50 like some do
The good lesson is that when a part is off the cruiser we all must use that opportunity to clean and paint because it is worth every effort in time, money and rust prevention.

Reminds me I have to turn my drive-shaft now one side is released anyway (sliding part next to diff not next to transfer)

FSM, especially the 1980 version is awesome! All the oil clearances are the same for BEB's and cam bearings (at least on my rig). And I am pleased that everything the FSM indicated measures well within spec.

Check this out
Engine section has a cut away view to start. This is a coloring book I could enjoy!

 

[pistonpete]

Nice work, keep the pics coming...

 

[dkyuss]

Nice work, keep the pics coming...

Thanks, we are getting there slowly but surely... Trying to get her operational now as I could be driving every weekend, instead if . We are gonna have a short term blitz to get running and I will come back and revisit the aesthetic body/paint/interior details next winter.
I may use your inspiration for paint job and try the 'faux patina'. Paint the beast white (or ivory/cream) and wet sand into the black on the body lines... All Black tends to be a little hot in the summer sun.


Picked up my as NEW injectors! New nozzles, another set of gaskets, assembled and tested. Comparing to the old nozzles it is obvious there was major wear requiring replacement and I should have skipped my cleaning round of these and saved myself several hours of work. Oh well, live and learn.

So I got back to looking at the interior, as I am all ripped apart before I discovered my cracked head and the it opened.
Pretty much like this, except wire wheeled rust/prep and ready, primed and 2 cans of rocker guard so its all black now and relatively rust free.

I ended up having to make two brackets to mount the rear of these seats in place at a good height. Will end up putting seat covers on these at some point. I also need to get a grab bar or rock slider? as I need to tip toe my but into the seat, trying not to use the steering wheel as my grab bar. Joys of lifting my truck!

Now the section of floor under the rear seats was completely replaced by a PO. I dont think this matches the OEM plate very well as PO's solution for the rear seat was to cut off the legs and weld directly to the floor . Did the same to the back of the rear seat, welded directly to the wheel wells and pillars..... This is a pain any time you need to remove seats and does not allow the fold away functionality. So we are moving back towards more original.
To make up for dimensional differences in the floor, I had to bend the 90º hinged seat mounting bracket to about 135º. I drilled and tapped the floor plate and bolted the seat hinges and latch in place. Now I need to extend the bumpers on the back of the seat as the latch holds the back of the seat about 3/4 inch off the floor but it is an easy fix.

And seated. Dont really like the hinges that far into the floor/foot area, but what can ya do?

Now I need to get the back of the seat figured out. The bottom hing mounts must have rusted out as PO has welded them shut at the wheel well relatively smooth. I do have a new to me back seat and latching hardware so the top latches should be easy.... Just that bottom hinge will take some figuring.

Still lots to do!

 

[dkyuss]

Gonna sleep well tonight now that I can see the light at the end of the tunnel....
Got a near complete refund on my chinese head and dont have to return ship! And picked this old girl up tonight.

Head was rebuilt 'not long ago' (forgot to ask how long ago was...) and is near complete 86 with 5 bearing camshaft etc. A good candidate to rebuild for a spare, one day...

So owned it about 5 minutes now,
So far so good.

Bit of sooty build up bot dont think this is abnormal.... 41mm exhaust valves!

And at least prior to cleaning, appears to be no cracks between valve seats or combustion chambers!

I am very pleased I may be soon!

I have found this though,

Injectors were installed with copper crush washers, like a thin sealing crush washer. This one must have fallen/misaligned when installing the injector and was a biatch to remove!
I was debating on just dropping the head on as is but think I will take the time, as Im in here and after finding this, and inspect/grind valves if required and clean all the things so it matches the rest of the 3B!

 

[dkyuss]

Some progress today.... but much quicker the second time around!
She cleans up pretty good!

But it does look like I will be replacing the precups (Head is good! )
In attempt at pulling the precups from my chinese head my puller arm broke. Not sure I trust them in my nice 'new' head and maybe I should just get 'real' ones???

Debated on painting and ended up trialing the dry graphite again (almost dry). I do intend on wiping down the sealing surfaces but not sure I have to??

Think I should replace the valve spring washers while im here.

 

[pistonpete]

The bigger valves are from when to when ?? if i can ask ?

 

[dkyuss]

The bigger valves are from when to when ?? if i can ask ?

As far as I can tell, from (september?)81 are all 41mm exhaust. But the whole part number thing has confused me several times now so im not too sure.

 

[dkyuss]

Stainless precups are ordered, Hope to see them this week!
Spring washers are NLA apparently...

 

[hj 60]

So the head was wrong for you but good for others (to sell?) ?
Very nice progress again.

 

[dkyuss]

So the head was wrong for you but good for others (to sell?) ?
Very nice progress again.

The head *may* be good to others who have the 37?mm exhaust valves. If I can sell I may, Or I will use it to cut chunks of cast iron from... or scrap metal? 38kg or something.

My concern is the lineup of the 4 coolant holes, 3 of them 'D' shaped and the headgasket as they are about 1mm under the HG, about 2mm too low on the casting. These 4 specific ports are blanked at the 3B head (where cylinder mark number is stamped) and I am not exactly sure why they are even there?
Close up of port in question

one of the many images sent to indicate the problems that led to my refund!

Where the ports line up.

A shame really, and it may even work fine, but I wasnt taking the risk.... Close but no cigars!

So unfortunately I think it is junk? may push out the valve guide bushings to keep for spares? but already decided against putting the precups in.

Someone is more than welcome to it if they think their luck is better than mine.

 

[dkyuss]

Bent up a new pre cup puller from 1/2" x 1/8" flat bar, basically a hook on the end to stick inside the angled hole. Placed a 6" length of 2x2 square tubing so the flatbar pierces it and then a big set of vice grips on the end of the flatbar. Near instant slide hammer!
Worked really well on the first three...

Im running out of horizontal space! is freeking out over my extended mess I have created...... Time to clean up soon!

But that 4th one (murphy prevails) did not want to budge! Ended up going to a 20" length (about 30#) of tubing for a heavier hammer and putting a zip cut on a dremmel to give some relief. Finally she gave up. Quick clean and the head is ready for new STAINLESS cups!

Valves are in fairly good shape, but while I am in here I will kiss with a grinder on the lathe again and lap into the seats. Cant start skipping details now.

 

[dkyuss]

So glad I kept digging.. In an atttempt to grind the valves that came with this head, it would appear a couple are slightly bent. Noticeable runout on the OD of the valve face. Also they were ground off center (or it is more likely the bend) at 44.5º but from the wrong reference point (the axis of the valve) so ultimately 1 degree off. I checked 3 times to make sure.
Visible in this pic before disassembling the head

So, I think I am back to my already ground valves.... I know you are not supposed to intermix engine components, but in efforts to get er going I may put my old valves in my new (to me) head.

But...Also found a prior repair (I did see this earlier) and cracked valve seat but I think I am still in the clear.
I will bring the head to get magnaflux'ed and if passes just replace the valve seat. 2 steps forward, but one back.

Well I lapped the valves anyways and ready to go...

Water pump is installed.

And thats all for today.

 

[dkyuss]

I got some awesome news today! Took the head to a engine rebuilder and head pressure tests with flying colors! Although the one valve seat needs replacement as it is confirmed cracked. Looked like a scratch but after lapping the valves the 'line' was still there and now confirmed. The shop is busy so I wont see my head back until next week but that is fine.... got too many other things to tidy up before I am ready to 'seat the rings'.
Speaking of, anyone know any details on how to or how not to???? Seat the rings.... see my last post here
Couple questions for the engine rebuilders


Well got my stainless, non magnetic (I checked!) precups in the other day.

Lookin fine... But this at first looks like an insert? on the bore of the 'throat'? But then I think it is part of the casting?
I want to grind it smooth...... OCD. Maybe I should just leave alone?

And then looking close, the little dimple to indicate orientation into the head had a stainless metal chip just dangling there, waiting to score up a cylinder... EEk. plucked it off with a small screwdriver and will be examining the rest ever so thoroughly.

And I slapped together a couple hinge mounts for the rear back seat so that my fold away rears may be a functioning reality again. Much more interior work to be done.....

And while I was waiting on other paint to dry... I taped up the lettered grill pieces to give some bling... some definition.

 

[dkyuss]

An interesting side thought, as I now have 3 heads in my hands. My original 58010 casting, my chinese defective? head with small valves (no casting marks what so ever!) and my new to me 58012. The chinese head has ferritic (magnetic, I assume cheap mild steel?) pre combustion chambers, while the other two have cracked stainless precups.

My new precups are supposedly 'upgraded' stainless. Is OEM a carbon steel? Anyone know the grade of stainless? IS it a standard stainless? Or some exotic duplex stainless super alloy (I got to play with many fancy alloys in a previous job)? One thing I learned many years ago is steel is not all the same... Precups in these engines seem to be a weak link so any improvement is a bonus! If these are just a 'run of the mill' 304SS than something more like an exotic superalloy tuned to this application could achieve good long term reliability improvements. Just thinking out loud here. See the chart/graph on page 5 here https://www.nickelinstitute.org/~/M...tureCharacteristicsofStainlessSteel_9004_.pdf

And what temperatures are reasonable to expect at the precups? 300ºC? 500ºC? This is a critical piece of the puzzle.

It is possible all these heads have been previously upgraded to the 'new' stainless but the fact they are all cracked does not lead me to believe the stainless upgrade is all that great.

Thermal expansion differences between stainless and cast are 1.6 (6.0 vs 9.6 (10-6 in/(in R))*) )factor www.engineeringtoolbox.com/linear-expansion-coefficients-d_95.html
This could be a contributing factor to all the cracked precups I have in my hands...
Although I then find this Thermal Expansion Chart | Lucas-Milhaupt which indicates 'cast stainless' (pretty vague....) has a CTE nearly identical to cast iron (6.0 vs 6.4 (10-6 in/(in R))*) ) ? So I dont know about this.... All depends on specific alloys.

Will probably follow @gerg 's lead PreCup temp .. and maybe not go as dramatic but just polish sharp edges to remove stress risers and maybe dimple the contact surfaces to minimize heat transfer between precups and head. I believe the dimples would also provide some relief to the stresses generated by CTE's minimizing potential cracks. But all speculation my friends...

Anyway, The 'DIESEL' emblem I painted the metallic color first and then 'sponge painted' the black to save a lot of time masking... and finally got the rad and front grill slapped together. Left out the lower piece for now as it needs work before it is worthy to go on the beast

So from this (old pic)

To this

 

[cruisermatt]

Pardon my lack of knowledge, but when 3B's drop precups, are they whole or in pieces? I guess they probably get pretty deformed in the process of smashing the piston but do you know the answer to that?