Finally Bought my first CRUISER!

[dkyuss]

Well guys, Thanks in advance. I have learned so much here already!

I have been drooling over these things for years (40's and 60's) and about a month ago I finally bit the bullet and picked up a relatively cheap 81 BJ60, drove 200kms home and parked it has been ever since.

First some initial pictures.....

 

[dkyuss]

As I have been crawling around it thoroughly inspecting as much as possible, I have seen some signs of abuse I wish I noticed prior to purchase.... but too late for that s***, on to making it all right and climbing the (not so) steep learning curve!

495kms on the odometer. 3b Diesel has been turbo'd (within 50K) with a Mazda 3 unit. PO was a welder, which initially was a good thing, as much rust was already repaired, but I have found the rear seat welded to the body, front hood latch is welded to the cross member and various other welder inspired surprises.

I knew going into this that she was going to be a bit of a project truck. I was kinda looking for this. Now have all I could want and more!

Some more pics of the not so pretty parts

 

[dkyuss]

A few more ugly parts;

On this last pic, you can see the frame is bent (last 12-14" of the rear c-chanel). The Body mount visible is not being used as that rear cross member that the tailgate mounts to is reinforced with tubing but rotten!

OMFG what have I gotten myself into!

 

[dkyuss]

My hopes for this summer is to get her safely operational and drive it to learn her quirks and what not.
This winter will likely see rear frame rebuild/repair of some form.... debating on a frame off.... but not sure if I am ready for that.
Any major special equipment required to do a frame off restoration other than say an engine hoist and multiple jack stands?

My initial to do list;
Replace turbo. Noticed some small (1/8" or less) missing pieces of fins on the intake of the compressor turbine.... hope they are not blocking some small oil passageway somewhere.

Full rebuild of knuckles, includes bearings, bushing and 30 spline longfields (yes the original birfs are shot)

Suspension bushings as they are heavily worn. OME suspension is hopefully in her new future.

All Fluids/filters.

Re-core radiator (yes its shot too), new thermostat

Check valves for adjustment

temporary support? for rear c Chanel until I can fix it right.... Any help or thoughts are always appreciated


Am I missing anything?

 

[cruiser enthuiser]

Grats and Welcome

Looks like a cool rig. Got a brand new roof rack it looks like. Amused by the front 'bull-bar.'

PO of my 40 also turned to his welder for many fixes making it much harder to un-fix. Oh, well ...part of the fun

Good luck with it.

Ed

 

[cwwfj60]

congrats on the truck, I really like the roof rack, looks heavy though what is that 1.5" tubing? How does that thing drive? Does that turbo help that 3b any? Looks like you will be finding a lot more surprises on this truck, good luck!

 

[Heckraiser]

Cool lift blocks, lol. Looks like a rat's nest. Good luck!

 

[hj 60]

Good luck fixing it to road worthy, maybe first get it right for the 4x4 tracks and have fun driving it.
If you spend a lot without driving it is all gone without fun-return.

The rear c-channel can be welded or boxed, enough room to weld plates on it or stuff.
There is so much to do, here is the maintenance manual to get an indication (they dont mention rust..)
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6D936BcfemZTGpOcFNSdWxNX1E/edit?pli=1

If the turbo is missing blades aint that a sign of wrecked?

30 spline longfields, dont know how much they are but mine drives fine with standard stuff, maybe search for a wrecker and get some missing stuff.

so I dont know if this is the right money pit project or just make sure it drives and save the money?

 

[Freewheel]

Oh boy, I thought I had a lot to do on mine! Big project!
It looks like the rear frame inner C channel has been removed?? On the back of the frame in the C channel there should be two layers, one inside the other- looks like the inner one may be missing with a resulting big loss of strength. That would explain why the frame is bent- that and the rust perforations.
Good luck!

 

[dkyuss]

Grats and Welcome
Looks like a cool rig. Got a brand new roof rack it looks like. Amused by the front 'bull-bar.'
PO of my 40 also turned to his welder for many fixes making it much harder to un-fix. Oh, well ...part of the fun
Good luck with it.

Ed

She's my new beastie! Ya front and rear bumpers are also on the list to do...

congrats on the truck, I really like the roof rack, looks heavy though what is that 1.5" tubing? How does that thing drive? Does that turbo help that 3b any? Looks like you will be finding a lot more surprises on this truck, good luck!

Ya roof rack looks sharp and is very solid. 1.5" tubing sounds about right. I havent had it off yet so not sure how heavy or tubing wall thickness but Im guessing 400lbs. Hoping it will hold three kayaks + some more.....
Other than some mild hiway steering wander, she drives pretty solid. I wasn't underpowered on any hills coming home through interior of BC but haven't driven her since. Parking lot steering produces a clunk which with the help of this forum I have narrowed down to the leaf springs shifting on very worn bushings. Engine runs smoothly, 'typical' diesel sound, but again this is my first diesel ever.

Cool lift blocks, lol. Looks like a rat's nest. Good luck!

Shes a beast!

Good luck fixing it to road worthy, maybe first get it right for the 4x4 tracks and have fun driving it.
If you spend a lot without driving it is all gone without fun-return.

The rear c-channel can be welded or boxed, enough room to weld plates on it or stuff.
There is so much to do, here is the maintenance manual to get an indication (they dont mention rust..)
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6D936BcfemZTGpOcFNSdWxNX1E/edit?pli=1

If the turbo is missing blades aint that a sign of wrecked?

30 spline longfields, dont know how much they are but mine drives fine with standard stuff, maybe search for a wrecker and get some missing stuff.

so I dont know if this is the right money pit project or just make sure it drives and save the money?

I agree I want to be able to drive her this summer. I have no plans on winter driving or using as a daily driver, but will expect her to get me to the places I want to go, and more importantly back home. Not planning any major 4x4 crawling, but definitely off road.
Not looking forward to the C chanel fix...... gonna be lots of cursing.
I hope the turbo/engine is not wrecked..... Not missing blades, but small fragments on the pickup edge. Almost looks like it was lightly hammered on? Shaft is tight and spins freely, although with a slight 'clicking' noise that sounds like dirt? in a bearing? Either way, I dont trust it and out it is due for replacement. I do plan on picking up a compression tester for diesel pressures and test the cylinders.

Im sure the 30 spline longfields are overkill for what I need, but I don't want to tear into those knuckles again for a long time! And the seal surface on my shafts were well grooved along with the birf itself. Think it was 350+shipping.

Money pit it is already. PO said it was his daily driver, obviously never heard of maintenance. I thought all TLC owners were like you guys here on ih8mud? Live and learn. I couldn't sell this to anyone now knowing what I know know! Not without disclosure or proper repairs.... Ever heard of Karma?

Oh boy, I thought I had a lot to do on mine! Big project!
It looks like the rear frame inner C channel has been removed?? On the back of the frame in the C channel there should be two layers, one inside the other- looks like the inner one may be missing with a resulting big loss of strength. That would explain why the frame is bent- that and the rust perforations.
Good luck!

Correct! no inner rear channel at all. Looks like someone started a repair and aborted. Or the inner piece completely corroded away? Couple of the rivits have been drilled out. of course welded back to the body below the tail gate (open hole on the rear body mount), in its crooked position (seen in last pic of my last post). OMFG!


I will update with more pics and progress later tonight. Thanks again for starting this journey (or maybe I should be cursing at all you mother 's). I would have never considered a project like this if I didn't have the support and info available on this site!

I run a small manufacturing shop with a welder, lathe, CNC mill etc so very confident the solution will be solid, breathing some new life into this girl.
Craig

 

[rrv333]

Show her the love and she'll love you back in return.

 

[dkyuss]

First thing I did inspect the tach for fault. Following the manuals and wiring diagrams brought me to the bell housing where I find a smooth, untapped casting where the tach sensor should have been. I assume this is not stock? off an FJ? but I didn't think they were the same.... Either way, I have no sensor to pick up the teeth on the OD of the flywheel, so installed the Autometer 2888 tach gauge and sensor that picks up the poles on the alternator. Woo hoo! working tach! Nice clean install makes my original gauges look soooo dirty!

With the tach I picked up a boost and EGT sensor from Autometer, 2 1/8" dia fits perfectly into the vents, even swivel! In hindsight I should have only got 15-20 psi max on the boost but at least get some feedback on the turbo now.

Also Ebrake does not return. I have read from forum members all the symptoms and I think I have them all! Cable is unmoveable by hand in its sheath even after removal from the truck. Every swivel and pivot point is solidly seized and does not move. Sorry no pics but after complete removal of the cable from the truck, lots of brake clean and penetrating oil, placing one end of the cable into a vice and putting my full body weight on the outer sheath got it to move! Switch sides, more brake clean, more oil and pull untill it moves! After about 10 more times it is moving freely! I continued to clean, wipe the dirty and now oily cable with paper towel each time it pushed through the sheath. Finished it off with pushing as much dry graphite by spray can through the sheath and I think I am in business! Still in pieces as I wait for new brakes to arrive. The old ones are delaminating from the steel backing due to overheat. I assume dragging on the drums as it doesn't release. I will try to get pics of the RE and RE on brakes this weekend.

 

[dkyuss]

Next task was fluids.
Coolant is full and doesn't look too bad.
Other than transfer case, all oils are black and old but full. Front diff was gooey birf soup
Transfer case had about 2/3 to 1 cup of oil, thats it. Is this an indication of a seal leak between tcase and transmission? I didnt pull the fill cap first on the transmission so not sure if it was overfull...
All fluids except coolant are now new and full.

Took a look at the rad the other day from inside the fan shroud and found a rotten radiator that looks decent on the outside (sorry no before pics). Got it back after 2 days with a new core..... better than new. I am pleased!

I am planning on flushing the block this weekend, install rad and new coolant. I am good at the search thingy but if you know any tricks im all ears!

 

[dkyuss]

From old to new. seals, wipers, Brass bushings, knuckle and wheel hub bearings, axles and longfields

 

[dkyuss]

And turbo.... I picked up a suitable turbo from cxracing and last weekend modified the manifolds/downpipe and got er installed!
Not the prettiest welds but Im getting better. Prepping my skills for the rear c channel repairs

 

[hj 60]

Very nice to see the pics, I wanted to say do the discs while you're there lol. (grooves, minimum thickness)
Flushing there is a bolt in the engine left side rear (only know 2H) to release to empty properly, might need a littte nail to push trough some dirt that blocks.

I only use coolant and no water but mud community seems to agree water must be used

Good luck with other work, I now need to go outside and pressure wash the HJ: was leaving a trail of mud clay on the highway.

 

[cruisermatt]

No pictures of shiny new Longfields before you put them in?! Now we have no way of knowing whether you are telling the truth or not.

If you don't know how much time/distance is on the transmission-transfer seal then a "equalizing" hose from transmission to the transmission might be a good idea. I'd assume that you are willing to rebuild the transfer case without fear, if you plan on doing that soon I wouldn't run the hose.

Also you might want to reconsider that air filter if you plan on off road time, most have reported that they don't stand up to elements as well as OEM.

Nice work saving another.

 

[dkyuss]

Very nice to see the pics, I wanted to say do the discs while you're there lol. (grooves, minimum thickness)
Flushing there is a bolt in the engine left side rear (only know 2H) to release to empty properly, might need a littte nail to push trough some dirt that blocks.

I only use coolant and no water but mud community seems to agree water must be used

Good luck with other work, I now need to go outside and pressure wash the HJ: was leaving a trail of mud clay on the highway.

Thanks! Pulled the bolt and flushed the block today with a garden hose through every hose I could push water through. No issues with blockage and everything flushed nicely!

Got the Rad installed today as well! Topped up with 3 parts 50/50 pre mix and 1 part concentrate, to conver any residual water left in hoses etc.

No pictures of shiny new Longfields before you put them in?! Now we have no way of knowing whether you are telling the truth or not.

If you don't know how much time/distance is on the transmission-transfer seal then a "equalizing" hose from transmission to the transmission might be a good idea. I'd assume that you are willing to rebuild the transfer case without fear, if you plan on doing that soon I wouldn't run the hose.

Also you might want to reconsider that air filter if you plan on off road time, most have reported that they don't stand up to elements as well as OEM.

Nice work saving another.

Ahhh But I have Longfield Stickers!
I will likely rig up an equalizing hose. Thinking of just pulling the two filler caps, tapping 1/8 or 1/4 NPT and put together fittings and hose.
I would take on a complete transfer case rebuild, if I have to. Would love to get at least the summer out of her first

I have kept the OEM air filter housing. Thanks for the heads up....If I have issues there is lots of room there to get it back in place.

 

[dkyuss]

So today I took out the pressure washer and about 30 mins blasting every nook and cranny I could access.

With better than new Rad installed, she is ready to fire up and test run.
Installed two new batteries I picked up two weeks ago, both were topped up with a charger before install.
Put the key in, everything but the starter works..... It clicks, but no cranking at all. Cable terminals and connecting points have all been cleaned/dielectric greased and reassembled. 12.4+ V is measured after the fusible links.

Could this be the cables themselves? corrosion between terminal end and cable itself? Anything else I can look at????







I also picked up some new wheels. 300 bucks for rims and 33x12.5 tires! I couldn't resist. Only thing, is 15x11" wheels (off a 86 chev P/U). I hope they are gonna fit! They are offset and measure about the same from hub face to wheel edge as the bald MT's (also 33x12.5) that were on the old girl.

With everything else needing a fix, I'm hoping to get a summers driving out of these and upgrade to a M/T or A/T tire when she is sturdy enough to handle them.





I also started the drum brakes. First tire off and.... not too bad looking. Dry, lots of brake dust and partially delaminated brakes likely due to sticking e brake.

Now take it all apart.... Its been a long time since I worked on drum brakes, but this is pretty simple stuff and comes out like clockwork.
Off with the two bolts holding the e brake tensioning pivot.... and muther er both of them snapped like it was a #10 grade 5 bolt. !

I will pick up some 8mmx1.25 heli-coils tomorrow and see if we can get this back together.

Not as productive as I was hoping to be today. Time for a

 

[Freewheel]

Dude. Your commitment is amazing. Keep up the good work.