EBC pads on an 80

[ajax1]

I have the abs

Do you have an and light on and do you have to deal with emissions?

I have a light on , you can pull the dash then pull the bulb takes maybe 15 minutes. I do not have emissions I live in the good part of Colorado

 

[inkpot]

I have the abs

I have a light on , you can pull the dash then pull the bulb takes maybe 15 minutes. I do not have emissions I live in the good part of Colorado

I would think that ABS would not fall under Emissions testing; more like a safety inspection?
I do run EBC greens about every onther set of pads. I have a set waiting to go on now

 

[-Spike-]

I do run EBC greens about every onther set of pads. I have a set waiting to go on now

Do you notice the difference? What's your other set(s)?

 

[richardlillard1]

Do you notice the difference? What's your other set(s)?

I’ve boticed the difference when I’ve run EBC pads, but I’ve not tried OEM pads, just those Centric ones. Though every time I’ve gone to Moab with EBC pads on the truck I’ve noticed it stops easier than Kyle’s with OEM pads; Kyle has noticed and commented on this too.

That said, you can’t trust my opinion, I’ve been huffing the chemtrails these things produce for the last couple months on my current set.

Props to @nukegoat for breaking the story on this.

 

[1973Guppie]

So I went with terrain tamer discs, then oem remanned calipers and TT pads, and still the truck didnt want to stop. No mind you it sitting on 37x 13.5 heavy nitto tires but even with the ABS pulled it wouldnt stop. So before this last trip east to west and thru the rockies I got napa calipers EBC pads and still used the TT discs finally (and after gravity bleeding thanks @ajax1) Ive got brakes, they stopped my in the mountains and I went thru the rockies westbound at night in a snow storm, and they stopped my on hells revenge,metal masher flat iron mesa etc etc etc, and they stopped me 7500miles later when I pulled back in my driveway. a lot of people including myself have been trying to find real brakes for a fully modded 80 series. And this setup has been the best Ive tried by far. hope this helps.

if you have not deleted the lspv, do it, you will get much better braking, my rear brakes were literally doing nothing until I deleted that stupid little contraption.....

 

[-Spike-]

if you have not deleted the lspv, do it, you will get much better braking, my rear brakes were literally doing nothing until I deleted that stupid little contraption.....

That's kind of a dangerous suggestion, telling someone to remove part of their braking system. The LSPV does have a purpose. My brakes, with LSPV intact, are quite good. It's possible that when you deleted the LSPV, you also got some trapped air out of the system. Or your LSPV was faulty, but that's not a good reason for everyone to delete it.

 

[1973Guppie]

That's kind of a dangerous suggestion, telling someone to remove part of their braking system. The LSPV does have a purpose. My brakes, with LSPV intact, are quite good. It's possible that when you deleted the LSPV, you also got some trapped air out of the system. Or your LSPV was faulty, but that's not a good reason for everyone to delete it.

IMO the lspv is made to work on these vehicles in stock format, once they are modified things change. "trapped air" had nothing to do with it. I don't think it is a dangerous suggestion, of course anyone should consider their own situation and rig when deciding to make modifications. What I am saying is that I have benefited greatly from deleting the lspv and many others as well.

 

[jonheld]

Regarding the LSPV, it does have a limited adjustment range and the silly bar can make contact with the left upper control arm when the rear suspension flexes.

On mine, I simply bent the rod so that at normal "day to day" ride height, it is just at max.

When I changed pads on all 4 corners last week the front and rear pads were worn about the same amount (% from new) and remarkably even from side to side. The truck stops pretty well and straight.

It can't get out of its own way sometimes, but it does stop.

 

[MaddBaggins]

Do you have an and light on and do you have to deal with emissions?

I damaged my ABS lines on the driver side probably 10yrs ago. A boulder got pulled up into the wheel well. I had a pic of it somewhere. The ABS started acting wonky so I pulled the fuse. The ABS light has been on ever since and I do emissions every year. They don't care about any dash lights on my rig. Tucson, they just check my gas cap, do a visual under the hood and check for cats, then they sniff the pipe at idle. YMMV

 

[MaddBaggins]

I've been using EBC Greenstuff pads on my 80 for a long time. I'd say at least 10yrs. I like them just fine. OEM rotors.

 

[inkpot]

Do you notice the difference? What's your other set(s)?

Yes, if the EBC brakes are broken in according to their instructions they seem to help clean up the rotors a bit and subsequently they feel like they require a little less brake pedal pressure. I have not done a scientific study on this, just my humble opinion.
I alternate with whatever name brand brakes are on clearance sale at Rock Auto.

 

[Mdej3]

Now, the best will be pairing them to OEM rotors or slotted ones? Thanks

 

[inkpot]

Now, the best will be pairing them to OEM rotors or slotted ones? Thanks

I m running OEM style rotors.

 

[Qball]

Now, the best will be pairing them to OEM rotors or slotted ones? Thanks

Regular ones are best, slots and drilled holes are for looks and trapping mud.

 

[White Stripe]

Typically brake pads have a friction grade listed on them. If I remember AA is the good. Further down the alphabet is bad. Cheapo pads usually have a poor friction grade. In addition, the brake pads must be bedded in before you can really tell how well they work. Maybe this is old new to everybody, or maybe its new news. Im am not sure what rating EBC pads have on them.

 

[Corbet]

EBC yellow and DBA slotted rotors have been my preferred choice after trying a couple different combos the past decade.