Drain and Fill Brake Fluid Reservoir, Fruitless or Genius? LC100 (1 Viewer)

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And which fluid and how much do we need for full flush?
Has anyone gives you an answer on this?

I am about to do this myself.
 
Anyone know the brake fluid drain and fill interval? I think this would be the best thread to post it in.

Thanks in advanced!
 
Typically about every 3 years, I flush 5 to 7 Toyota bottles through.

How often depends on climate and use. You can buy a tool, that measure moisture content. Moisture drops boil point temp, reducing pressure. It also darkens the fluid. So as color begins to changes, flush it out.
 
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Is there a technical reason or just preference that Toyota Dot 3 is preferred over another quality brands like Amsoil, Lucas, Valvoline, etc?
 
What would be typical symptoms of never changing brake fluid?
 
Dark color, stained reservoir, bake fades after heavy use are due to moisture lowered boiling temp of fluid. Which if reservoir stained, you'll also very likely have weak seals. Junky old fluid is damaging also, to the rubber used in brake system seals. Also, gunk build-up which can clog screens in reservoir and screens & valves of ABS.

You can buy a brake fluid tester, which test for moisture. I don't have one. But I was told, they have: DOT I, II, III, IV, 5.1 & Toyota specific test line.

Toyota fluid is different, which became known when Toyota/Lexus recalled 2005-07 (not 100 series) for brake master seal failure. TSB stated, due non Toyota brake fluid added to reservoir. A fact even Dealerships have forgotten, which (all I've seen) are using bulk (not Toyota) brake fluid. Which may be why they're having a very high number of master failing.
 
I ask because I have never ever bled or changed brake fluid in any of my LC/LXs and never had any braking issues that I know of. Short of all four systems failing by sundown, I wonder if it has anything to do with never having any ABS/master cylinder failures. Prolly just lucky Lexii.
 
been using this stuff in all my Toyotas for over 10 years, with great results. its cheaper, and comes in quarts. I flush my Brake fluid once a year. I know it's a bit excessive. but .. i guess thats me

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Same here. I flush a bottle of that Valvoline Synthetic through all four corners once a year if not more often. Been using that fluid on my 100 for 11 years.
 
Never replace, no! They have and electric motor with commutator and bushes, which will fail one day, As do all these types of electric motors. Also the accumulator with deplete its N gas. Additionally it has rubber and moving parts

But you can get the longest life possible, with 3 smiple steps.
  1. Frequent flush (with only Toyota fluid, IMHO!)
  2. Never overfill or spill fluid on master.
  3. Make sure battery voltage always good, which means good clean battery post & clamps, good battery, good grounds.
I placed a link on OP page, and will do again here, for those that missed it:
 
Only one good way to clear/clean out the reservoir tank; With IG key ON, hold down brake pedal, open a rear caliper bleeder.

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Once reservoir very near the bottom. Close bleeder, turn off IG key then pump brake pedal 40 times (empties accumulator).
Accumulator dumps fluid back into to reservoir as you pump brake pedal with IG key off, to about level seen below.
Now add new Toyota brake fluid, doubling the amount currently in reservoir. (50/50 mix of old and new)
Now again clear/empty reservoir though rear bleeder. Repeat this 5 times.
After above flush, keep reservoir above low line at all times.
Now move to other rear, for a short flush of its line/caliper.
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Now move to FL, pump pedal 20 times IG key on. IG key now stay on until done.
Hold down pedal and open FL bleeder. Close bleeder and then pump pedal 5 times. Repeat 10 times. Only needing to pump pedal 5 times between each bleed., after the first 20 pump.
Never release brake pedal until bleeder closed, or air is suck in to caliper.

Now move to FR (front right). Bleed it, a minimum of 7 times.

Torque bleeders to 9 to 11ft-lbf. Blow out bleeder with brake clean (straw) than add WD-40 (w/straw) and cap them.

I use a minimum of 5 Toyota bottles, maximum 7 bottles. How many bottles depends on how much used to flush accumulator, the more the better. Also if caliper piston clasped, to get max out of calipers.
I must read all the posts so many times and yours is the easiest to understand. Should I suck out the old fluid I. The master first would that helps and how much fluid do you think is in the accumulator? I don’t have a scan tool but some debits a closed system and I’m not disturbing abt components it should be ok, right? Thanks a lot!
 
How many of those? Get's pricey


I ordered 3 not sure if will be enough. Probably need 5? I haven't done this yet.
So after reading @2001LC posts, I’m convinced that he’s right about flushing and to be safe with OEM Toyota. In 2019 I had a brake light and eventually replaced the brake assembly $2800 plus labor. Research the invoice, the shop used Liq Moly, and 3 years ago I had another shop flush it for $300 so I was going to let them do it again and finding out unknown fluid? So may as well do it myself for less than $100. If it’s not because of the high cost I would use other brand but I don’t want to replace this expensive part anymore so to be safe I’m using Toyota. However, I was having problem locating the OEM fluid! My local dealers Longo largest in US does not stock them. No sure what they are using, a lot of out of state dealers have them less than $10/12oz but will not ship to California. Luckily I found this small dealer in Manhattan Beach got them at good price and one shipping charge regardless of quantity so I ordered a dozen. Hopefully if I don’t open it will be still good on the shelf.


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Every bleed screw on my Tundra is seized, I’m afraid I’ll snap one off and be forced into an entire brake system refurb which I don’t have the time for now. I’m going to suck out the reservoir and refill a few times, it’s better than nothing.
 

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