Drain and Fill Brake Fluid Reservoir, Fruitless or Genius? LC100 (1 Viewer)

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Every bleed screw on my Tundra is seized, I’m afraid I’ll snap one off and be forced into an entire brake system refurb which I don’t have the time for now. I’m going to suck out the reservoir and refill a few times, it’s better than nothing.
Smart move! So my shop broken several rear sway bar bolts, advised me to bring her back after I get several new links as needing to be cut off. Also they are afraid to break the fuel tank straps bolts. I spray PB blasts and Kroil on the bolts for several months now. Last week I gave it a try and the bolts came off easily. I think I’ll need to soak the bleed screws too, once I bleed them this time I’ll get new rubber caps and spray some WD40 in it. I am hoping once I do a complete flash the next several years will be just suck out and refill the reservoir annually.
 
Every bleed screw on my Tundra is seized, I’m afraid I’ll snap one off and be forced into an entire brake system refurb which I don’t have the time for now. I’m going to suck out the reservoir and refill a few times, it’s better than nothing.
The stem/threaded length of the bleed valve is not that short, unless the corrosion is that bad but the component itself is stout for its size. I’ve never snapped one before but I did unintentionally rounded a few because of how bad the corrosion and how the previous person strong handed it that it was already close to round and stuck.
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The corrosion/rust on the brake hard lines is primarily from the chemistry composition of fluid. The lower DOT rating it has (glycol-based) the more susceptible it is to moisture hence oxidation = corrosion = rust. The higher the dot rating, the lower the chance for it to absorb moisture or even repel it (DOT5 silicone-based).
 
Smart move! So my shop broken several rear sway bar bolts, advised me to bring her back after I get several new links as needing to be cut off. Also they are afraid to break the fuel tank straps bolts. I spray PB blasts and Kroil on the bolts for several months now. Last week I gave it a try and the bolts came off easily. I think I’ll need to soak the bleed screws too, once I bleed them this time I’ll get new rubber caps and spray some WD40 in it. I am hoping once I do a complete flash the next several years will be just suck out and refill the reservoir annually.

The stem/threaded length of the bleed valve is not that short, unless the corrosion is that bad but the component itself is stout for its size. I’ve never snapped one before but I did unintentionally rounded a few because of how bad the corrosion and how the previous person strong handed it that it was already close to round and stuck.
View attachment 4006636
The corrosion/rust on the brake hard lines is primarily from the chemistry composition of fluid. The lower DOT rating it has (glycol-based) the more susceptible it is to moisture hence oxidation = corrosion = rust. The higher the dot rating, the lower the chance for it to absorb moisture or even repel it (DOT5 silicone-based).

I’ve given the screws many dousings of Kroil and liberal applications of heat, no dice, they ain’t budging. I can’t take the risk so a lazy man’s fluid exchange it is.
 

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