DIY: Replacing heater hose pipe T's *important* (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter paflytyer
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Phil, I gotta disagree with the "put and end..." Feel free to PM me if you would like my rational (dont' want to hijack....).
Dont see it as a hijack and Im sure your input will be appreciated by others if it has to do with heater T. If you feel otherwise PM your rational or findings.
Hi Lcphil: I'm on it (via PM) as it's more of a political (probably wrong word) point I want to make. However, I agree on the Ts, whatever fix is chosen, it will surely out last our lives. On that note, I 
the thread!
the thread!
Hi Lcphil: I'm on it (via PM) as it's more of a political (probably wrong word) point I want to make. However, I agree on the Ts, whatever fix is chosen, it will surely out last our lives. On that note, I
Hi Lcphil: I'm on it (via PM) as it's more of a political (probably wrong word) point I want to make. However, I agree on the Ts, whatever fix is chosen, it will surely out last our lives. On that note, I
All your post are politically correct......................its the internet. If its posted 3 times its the internet truth
2001LC, 109k, swapped oem T's to brass. Bought worm clamps but thought better of it and used the constant torque oem clamps. Repositioned clamps just in case I ever need to adjust.
Quick 30 minute job, but what a pain in the arse! I'm 5' 10" and had all the right tools for the job, but I had to put my right knee on the battery and left knee on the intake manifold to get in the perfect position to move some of the clamps. Glad I never have to do it ever again. Original T's actually looked to be in pretty good shape. It looks like the PO used oem red coolant changed regularly and the truck had been garaged in SoCal all of it's life, so I'm thinking good preventative maintenance and fewer extreme temperature fluctuations helps to extend the life of the T's.
New brass!
Quick 30 minute job, but what a pain in the arse! I'm 5' 10" and had all the right tools for the job, but I had to put my right knee on the battery and left knee on the intake manifold to get in the perfect position to move some of the clamps. Glad I never have to do it ever again. Original T's actually looked to be in pretty good shape. It looks like the PO used oem red coolant changed regularly and the truck had been garaged in SoCal all of it's life, so I'm thinking good preventative maintenance and fewer extreme temperature fluctuations helps to extend the life of the T's.
New brass!
SierraWheel, where did you find those brass T's ????
Luke111
Supporting Vendor
Not sure of the size needed but a quick Google search
Dixon 179-1010 Brass Hose Splicer Fitting, Tee, 5/8" Hose ID Barbed: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
Dixon 179-1010 Brass Hose Splicer Fitting, Tee, 5/8" Hose ID Barbed: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
These were the ones I used from post 75. Just make sure you get the 5/8" variety.
12mm hose on a 5/8 barbed brass fitting?2001LC, 109k, swapped oem T's to brass. Bought worm clamps but thought better of it and used the constant torque oem clamps. Repositioned clamps just in case I ever need to adjust.
Quick 30 minute job, but what a pain in the arse! I'm 5' 10" and had all the right tools for the job, but I had to put my right knee on the battery and left knee on the intake manifold to get in the perfect position to move some of the clamps. Glad I never have to do it ever again. Original T's actually looked to be in pretty good shape. It looks like the PO used oem red coolant changed regularly and the truck had been garaged in SoCal all of it's life, so I'm thinking good preventative maintenance and fewer extreme temperature fluctuations helps to extend the life of the T's.
New brass!
I'm not necessarily endorsing those specific brass T's for anyone else... I recommend thorough research and to choose the approach that works best for you. Someone else described the 5/8" brass T's earlier in the thread and there was also a discussion about the discrepancy in sizing for one of the hoses, so I won't re-hash everything here. Like others have mentioned previously, one of the hoses is snug but it does slide on. Personally, I think it is a good idea to inspect the hoses and connections at each 90k service regardless if you have metal or plastic T's. My hoses were also in great shape, but FWIW I plan on inspecting and possibly replacing all of my hoses when I get to the next service.
This is the constant torque/tension clamp I am talking about. The OE clamp is also a CT design. The one pictured go for about $5-6/ea though. Here is some additional info...
"Virtually all rubber hose compresses "cold flow" after installation of a clamping device, resulting in an almost immediate torque loss that can exceed 80% of installation torque. Similarly, virtually all metal connections expand as a system heats up, and then contracts as the system cools. Conventional worm-gear, T-Bolt, and other clamps are passive, in that expansion and contraction of components cannot be compensated for without retightening or loosening the clamps. This Breeze clamping system is an "active" clamp mechanism, which monitors and then compensates for the temperature changes by actually changing diameter through a unique worm-gear Belleville assembly."
http://www.breezeclamps.com/ct.htm
If anyone has used these, what size, or part number did you use?
Thanks,
Shawn
From what I can tell from my '98's service records the heater T's were original. So here's what Southern Oregon T's look like with 280k miles on them. One was seeping and easily broke apart during disassembly. The other wasn't much better:
Replaced with stainless T's and OEM hoses:
Replaced with stainless T's and OEM hoses:
93yotasr5
Come and take it
Just ordered stainless T's, gates hoses and new radiator hoses. I'll be tackling that job next weekend.
I went a little different route (size wise) than most other folks here. My hoses were still in great shape, so I elected to not replace them with new. Consequently....the ends of the hoses were all slightly 'belled' which would have resulted in a loose (or looser than I would like) fit had I gone back with OEM Tee's or their equivalent.
I found a source for Tee's that were 3/4" x 5/8" and these provided a good tight fit even before installing the hose clamps. They would NOT have worked with new hoses (would have been too tight) but were just right in my case.
I found a source for Tee's that were 3/4" x 5/8" and these provided a good tight fit even before installing the hose clamps. They would NOT have worked with new hoses (would have been too tight) but were just right in my case.
Muddy Bean
Breaking something or fixing something
For perspective: yes I'm the guy who still has his original timing belt, hasn't ever flushed his power steering reservoir, is still stopping happily with his original master brake cylinder, has never replaced his steering rack, and runs 15,000 miles between Mobil 1 extended oil changes...and my truck still drives better than any of my friends suvs. Their words, not mine. #endrant
I think I finally caught the wisdom in this question. I learned today that my hoses are leaking at the connection to my new brass T's. My reserve tank was getting low when I found out, but luckily I still had coolant in the system. My theory is that the OEM constant torque clamps simply can't put enough torque on the BARBED fitting to seal the high pressure connection. I'm also hesitant to torque down a worm clamp on a BARBED fitting and ruin an otherwise decent hose.
For whatever reason it never even crossed my mind that I was switching from the OEM SMOOTH fitting to a BARBED fitting!!
Decided while I'm at it (again) I might as well move up in the world. Just ordered the Four Seasons 84543 Heater T's and Breeze CT clamps from amazon. If there's anything I hate more than re-doing a "fix", it would be breaking down on the side of the road because my first "fix" failed.
Hope someone else learns from my mistake. Brass, stainless, plastic, whatever you go with I would stay away from barbed fittings and triple check to be sure your connections are tight!
Took your experience, and ordered the same.
93yotasr5
Come and take it
One T disintegrated when I removed it and the other was brittle and was on its way out as well. I used the gates hoses method and cut the pieces from the molded hose. i used the constant torque clamps on the stainless T and reused the other clamps. So far so good!
