DIY: Replacing heater hose pipe T's *important* (7 Viewers)

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Thanks LC Phil (you've helped me multiple times through PM)

Are the four seasons heater tees available in local auto parts stores? I googled and didn't have any luck.

Of course I have an appt tomorrow for heater T replacement and I bought OEM. :bang:
 
Thanks LC Phil (you've helped me multiple times through PM)

Are the four seasons heater tees available in local auto parts stores? I googled and didn't have any luck.

Of course I have an appt tomorrow for heater T replacement and I bought OEM. :bang:

4 seasons is a HVAC parts supplier. Maybe try your local HVAC shop.
 
Yep, take the extra 2 minutes to remove the engine cover and get a pair of pliers like this from harbor freight and it is a 20 minute job.

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Assuming you use the OEM T's and don't have to fight the brass ones.
 
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Changed mine today. It doesn't appear that they have ever been changed. 190k on the clock. Glad I didn't wait. They were ready to go at any time. I put the clamps back to make replacing them next time a bit easier. Hopefully that won't cause any issues.
 
Yeah, those hose pliers work great. However, you'd need 3 pair to clamp all three hoses for this job. At $20 a pop, you'd be better off just paying someone else to do it.

I considered using 2 inch C clamps and some wood to make my own clamps, but I just dont think you need them.

Edit: After thinking about that for a few minutes, the hose clamp pliers could work with only 1 pair. Just clamp the hose in between the T and the firewall. It will prevent the cup or so of coolant from getting out. The other hoses will have just a tiny bit of cooland in them, just leave them upright and the coolant won't spill out. Just be careful if you use the hose clamp pliers, there isn't a lot of room to clamp and you may break off the end of the T.

Old 3th world country trick..

Skinny jaw Vice-grip (Even the tiny ones work for the 10mm hoses on motorcycles really well) with two short OD diameter (around 1/2" will do) long sockets, Zero harm to the hoses, Works every time and very well since they are so small.
 
My mega machines and good friend agree to make me a pair out of TIG welded stainless steel, can somebody measure the plastic part for him please..

Ps: I love this community, is very positive and proactive, one of the main reason we end up with a Land cruiser and not some other POS.
 
Factory tee's measure 17mm X 14mm X 17 MM.
Pass through; 17mm (.67 inch) OD on shaft & 18.44m (.726 inch) OD on barb, 13mm (.50 inch) ID.
Tee (smaller down hose): 14mm (.55 inch) OD on shaft & 15mm (.59 inch) OD on barb, 10mm (.40 inch) ID.
Length of shafts are 25mm (1 inch).

I did a set yesterday on a 2000 with ~300K miles, factory originals by the looks of them.

I notice a sweet smell during a test drive. Upon inspection I saw tiny bit of seepage on the tee closest to DS. I pressed on camp lightly with a finger to see if I could rotate, and plastic tee fell apart.

Sunday, so I just pick up two 3/4x/3/4 x3/4" brass tee's and six ASS screw claps, cost ~$20. The smaller hose side fit snugly over the 3/4" tee, but I could have gone with 7/8" or greater on pass throughs. The originals factory clamps probably would have worked fine. But felt with old hoses (expansion) screw clamps would a good idea.

Drain off a little coolant first thing, didn't lose any during replacement of tee's.
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All hoses where swollen a bit. I'll schedule for replace on next flush, all though rubber felt good.
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The person on that apparatus weighs about as much as my left leg. Pretty sure I'd be kissing the firewall if I got up on there... Is there a more "confidence inspiring" version out there?
 
Quick job like this I just lower AHC, which was perfect for me on DS, and I use a step stool on PS.

Now for the starter, I'd really like one of the above creepers.
 
has anyone thought about making some real braided lines for this? It seems to me someone would have in the past for such a big single point failure.

My hot side, or (DS) heater T collapsed upon inspection of the one I bought last week.
I've made fuel, oil, reference signal lines for porsche engines in the past from this place, British American Transfer
if anyone wants to look. I"m sure it's possible but not cheap. I probably will make a solution in the future. Just not until I really start getting into this truck.
Watching one burst at idle pressure did not give me any warm feelings about those at all. LIke a bad nightmare with girlfiend driving on the freeway in the middle of the night.
 
I forgot, can someone tell me the ID of those black hoses and the ID of the tee.... straight though side.
 
Just went through finding parts for going the non-OEM route, figured I'd share what I found... Because I went with smaller-than-OEM-tees, I thought it prudent to source the proper size hoses in as close to stock shape as possible rather than just clamp down as hard as I could on OEM hoses and hope for the best. Like I mentioned in my personal thread, I don't like the idea of getting stranded somewhere and not being able to get specialty hoses; I would much rather be able to use a hose that any redneck at any shop can get me on a day's notice.

Tees: 84543. Can be bought multiple places, including but not limited to Amazon (as mentioned above), Advance, O'Reilly, and Napa. I bought mine locally at O'Reilly Auto Parts and got them same day, ymmv.

Hoses: Gates 19082 and 18622.

Hose 19082 is 5/8" ID (same as the pass through OD on the 84543 tee fittings), and can be cut up to replace the four upper hoses that connect the engine to the heater core, and gets rid of the 90 degree bend hose.
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Hose 18622 is 1/2" ID (same as the tee OD on the 84543 tee fittings), and can be cut up to replace the two lower hoses that connect to the rear heater lines.
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