Builds Cruisermatt's FJ62 Build-up (1 Viewer)

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Brakes are a little better with the rear discs. Any vehicles brakes are 70% in the front any way so improving the rears usually doesn't make a HUGE difference.

The 80 axle is about 1.75" wider on both sides. Before the swap I had 1.5" spacers all around so now I just run them in the front. The rims are from a Tacoma and have 5.5" of backspacing. Any less and they stick out way past the fenders. Even these stick out about an 1/8", I haven't flexed the rear to full stuff but I bet it hits the rear outer fender lip.

If I was doing it again I'd narrow it on the short side and run a factory 60 series full floating shaft, or custom Nitro chrome.
 
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Started college, not living at home so it's hard to tinker on the truck during the week, managed to get home this weekend and do an oil change, the break-in oil which I was still on (~1500 miles) looked perfect.

And I washed it. The paint/body actually look sort of presentable when it's clean, imagine that.

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So, KM2's or MTR's? :)
 
KM2s are solid tires. Mine have held up for quite a while (40,000 ish) and still have some life. They wear good if rotated every 5k miles. Never have had a flat (knock on wood)!

I have nothing against MTRs but one of my jeep buddies has blown out 2 in the past couple years... Both were sidewall tears.
 
I also have a friend that's had two MTR's blowout. It's hard to resist that tread pattern though...
 
Also have my eyes on Nitto Trail Grapplers and Hankook MT's.
 
Or if I should just get the new KO2's (the cheapest "good" tire and endorsed by Woody) and get a set of something radical for Offroad.
 
If you don't drive much on the highway just get the KM2. One set of tires will get the job done. My KM2's are really not that loud on the highway, but I'm just sorta tired of them. They shine off-road when aired down, but I just want another AT. Better fit for my driving preference. Less mud, more dirt.
 
I have KM2's now! But I bought them at 25% tread lol.
 
I also went with the km2, seems like a solid choice. If they live up to half of what users claim, I'm gonna be satisfied.
Glad you didn't go with the hankook.
Good tire for less money, but lost their edge after short usage.
They were awesome as an all terrain, and good in winter. Just didn't live up to a MT name.

Pics!
 
Going with a KM2 in 315/75r16.

Ordered a pair of 2" spacers for the front (I have 1.25" now). The 33's have 3/4" of clearance off the leaf at full lock both ways so bumping them out 3/4" should clean 35's fine on the street. Not too concerned with off-road, not a whole lot here to really articulate the suspension on.

35's will be way better on the highway, so I'm excited about that.
 
Also, developed a MASSIVE oil leak.

And planning to go wheeling/camping this weekend with the club.

So I ordered:
1. Oil pan gasket
2. Side cover gasket (it's leaking from both of these)
3. Trail Gear Super Metal hub studs
4. trail Gear chromo-spindle lock nut
5. One New OEM knuckle stud (one has been stripped on the drivers side for ages)
6. 2" wheel spacers (for the new tires)

And I need to pick up new tires!

Test fitting my friends 35's of Saturday to ensure fitment is clean.

Busy week :)
 
Are the larger tires being planned in-line with future mods? i.e. More lift?

Big tires are cool and all. Just wanna make sure you're not gonna hate swapping to them.

Also you might want to get an 8" wide wheel. (I don't think the Tacoma steelies are that wide, could be wrong though.)
 
Yes, little more lift in the FAR future when I link the front and SOA the rear.

It's sounds wrong but I'm going to bigger tires for street performance. I really need the rubber over drive until I swap in an NV4500. And when I do that I'll gear down to 4.88's.

Oh, by the way, I have plans to swap in an NV4500 transmission and Dana 300 transfer case.

And I want to link it!

I see NV4500 happening before this time next year, and the suspension miss probably in two years.
 
Isn't the Dana 300 a center output? You'll need a centered rear axle. Do you have a good hook up for a used NV4500? Plus the adapter? H55F bolts in. Smaller overdrive IIRC but not by much. Just food for thought.
 
Believe me, I've put had a buffet of food-thought.

You should see the text message conversation GLTHFJ60's and I have - some serious tech in there!

H55f over drive is 15%. First gear is the same as I have in my H41. All I'll be gaining is a 15% overdrive. I'll need driveshaft mods, and another transfer case (I have the earliest split-case).

All of that said and done is in the ball park of $3000.

NV4500 has a 27% overdrive! Nearly twice as much as the h55f! And first gear is either 5.61:1 or 6.34:1 depending on Dodge or Chevy respectively. I haven't decided which to use yet, considering a custom adapter to mate it to the 3FE will be made both versions have their advantages and disadvantages in that realm, I'll dive more into that in another post.

The Dana 300 is beefier that the split-case. There is better parts availability. There's a handy 4:1 low gear kit that costs half that of the equivalent kit for the split-case. There's some handy production flanges out there to replace the Spicer style yoke in favor of a flat Toyota pattern. Center output? You are forgetting I already have a centered rear axle :)

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All said and done it's cheaper and an improvement on the Toyota drivetrain. Heavier duty, more parts availability, and cheaper. There's three NV4500's on Craigslist right now. All for $1000 or less.
 

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