Builds Clifford is home again- a 1965 FJ40 FST (2 Viewers)

[red66toy]

Unbolted the front motor mounts one more time. Lifted it up a good couple inches and it was enough to get the drum on. Now to torque those two important shaft nuts down.

 

[red66toy]

I realized I was missing the OEM spring bracket for the slave cylinder. I also wanted to preserve the slave cylinder against the heat from the exhaust pipe just below, so I made a new stainless bracket for myself that incorporated a heat shield. If there is interest we can make a run of these.

I needed a new spring. The OEM spring for the later 40s with the driver's side slave was too short and the longer early one is NLA. Thankfully someone on mud suggested this generic Doorman spring set. Worked a treat!

Got the 4wd switch all hooked up using our boot kit . I always love refreshing these old electrical components.

I filled the T-case, Tranny and Engine with the appropriate oils. Next is to work on linkages, drivelines and fix a bent looking drag link... But it could be the whole rod. Argh.

 

[red66toy]

Curious, how close are other people’s throw out bearings to the pressure plate. Does this look about right?

 

[mattressking]

Chase I can't tell - are you using the adjustable slave or fixed rod slave? The TO bearing is based on that so either:

1. set the adjustable slave according to FSM then adjust pedal height OR
2. if its non-adjustable, just set the pedal height as they aren't adjusted at the slave.

Update: it looks like your slave is the adjustable type, which would make sense. Have you set the length?

 

[red66toy]

Chase I can't tell - are you using the adjustable slave or fixed rod slave? The TO bearing is based on that so either:

1. set the adjustable slave according to FSM then adjust pedal height OR
2. if its non-adjustable, just set the pedal height as they aren't adjusted at the slave.

I have about 15mm of travel to the pressure plate. I think that is too much the more I messed with it. I am at about the end of the pushrod with that end nut on the slave. I may make a longer end nut to make up the rest of the ground. FSM stipulates about 3-4mm of end play.

 

[pb4ugo]

1st adjust pedal height, then pedal freeplay, then adjust the rod at the slave. All per fsm. Pedal freeplay is the distance the Pedal moves and whrn the slave starts to move. You might need someone to watch the slave for intial movement.

 

[red66toy]

1st adjust pedal height, then pedal freeplay, then adjust the rod at the slave. All per fsm. Pedal freeplay is the distance the Pedal moves and whrn the slave starts to move. You might need someone to watch the slave for intial movement.

View attachment 3579625

I'll confirm the pedal part of the issue. I have no hump on so I can see everything moving from the seat. Engagement seems almost instantaneous with pedal push so likely within factory spec, but I'll go check.

This all boils down to the 4speed swap. Using 4 speed clutch system with a early driver's side mount location. I have a feeling I am just pushing the limit of the part as designed since it was made to mount closer to the fork.

 

[red66toy]

Pedal is within spec. Plan now is to extend the pushrod so I can get the adjustments to factory spec. I also have parts on the way to extend the t-case shifter rod.

 

[red66toy]

A project frozen in time:

First time I have laid eyes on it in a few weeks. Life can change very very quick. It was good to see the old steed again though. Future drives in it are good thoughts and goals to hold onto right now.

 

[Goldbug]

Hope everything is going ok. Great thread, lots of tech with a good story mixed in.

 

[EWheeler]

Hope everything is going ok. Great thread, lots of tech with a good story mixed in.

Ditto from me Chase.

 

[red66toy]

Ditto from me Chase.

Hope everything is going ok. Great thread, lots of tech with a good story mixed in.

Thank you both! I haven been helping a family member deal with a sudden cancer diagnosis. Unfortunately it was caught too late and we are just working to make sure they are comfortable. One of those terrible life lessons on how fast things can change and to not take your time with your family and friends for granted.


I have slowly been doing cruiser things here and there to take some needed distraction time. I think the next major step I need to take with the 40 is getting driveshafts made. Might be able to get those dropped off next week. I’m going try out drivelines NW here in the Seattle area.

 

[firemanj92]

Chase Ahh bummer. We'll keep your family in our prayers!!

 

[red66toy]

Took a little time to occupy my mind with something different and went to play with the cruisers. I missed them.

I still need to get the driveshafts done. But I took the time to finish the clutch slave pushrod length issue. I ended up using the long extension nut to get the length I needed. Then I inserted a little threaded stub extension with threadlock to act as a saftey stay. This way the pushrod wont slip off the clutch arm. Also, the interwebs lied to me! (shocking I know). So the return spring I had used before was too weak. I found this unit from Amazon that worked perfect. I think its a little stronger than stock, but it works great so going to run it for a bit. It had to be about 6.5" long and a pull of about 7-9lbs/in.

Working on getting the T-case linkage set and then onto the shifter linkages!

 

[Roastchestnuts]

Took a little time to occupy my mind with something different and went to play with the cruisers. I missed them.
View attachment 3624646

I still need to get the driveshafts done. But I took the time to finish the clutch slave pushrod length issue. I ended up using the long extension nut to get the length I needed. Then I inserted a little threaded stub extension with threadlock to act as a saftey stay. This way the pushrod wont slip off the clutch arm. Also, the interwebs lied to me! (shocking I know). So the return spring I had used before was too weak. I found this unit from Amazon that worked perfect. I think its a little stronger than stock, but it works great so going to run it for a bit. It had to be about 6.5" long and a pull of about 7-9lbs/in.
View attachment 3624647
Working on getting the T-case linkage set and then onto the shifter linkages!

I know its too late but I had a hell of a time getting that spring on then I realized I could pull it in place using zip ties on the fork end of the spring. It was a glorious hack.

 

[Green Bean]

I know its too late but I had a hell of a time getting that spring on then I realized I could pull it in place using zip ties on the fork end of the spring. It was a glorious hack.

Ha. I'll have to remember the zip tie hack! The last go around, I used a small pair of needle nose vise grips and was able to manipulate the spring into place that way. But it put up a pretty good fight.

 

[red66toy]

Ha. I'll have to remember the zip tie hack! The last go around, I used a small pair of needle nose vise grips and was able to manipulate the spring into place that way. But it put up a pretty good fight.

I know its too late but I had a hell of a time getting that spring on then I realized I could pull it in place using zip ties on the fork end of the spring. It was a glorious hack.

I wish I had known about that! I did the pliers too. I had a lot of internal frustration I was able to harness.

 

[Roastchestnuts]

I wish I had known about that! I did the pliers too. I had a lot of internal frustration I was able to harness.

Yeah I had to adjust the slave cylinder rod a couple of times and needed to undo the spring several times. it was frustrating until I figured out the zip tie trick.

 

[red66toy]

Finally took the driveshafts into Drivelines NW here in Seattle.
Excited to get these done and back in the truck.

Next step is getting the shifter linkages done.

 

[red66toy]

Things are nearing completion, at least for this one project. I pick up the drivelines tomorrow, and a couple other small linkage mods need to happen. But while I am waiting on parts I turned my attention to the gas tank. I knew it was going to need some love.

This tank has been in the 40 without pads for a looong time. Metal on metal baby.
Soon after I first bought this 40 over 20 years go, my father and I went on a camping trip. Well once we got to the camp it started leaking gas! Thankfully there was a little town not too far away and it had a Napa Auto parts (love that place!). On the way to the store the truck started running like absolute crap and it would barely idle. We pulled to the side of the road and popped the hood. Looking around we finally found the issue. One of the two carb mounting nuts had worked its way loose and was just sitting precariously on the manifold. Phew! We righted that sucker back down and we’re back on our way. Now with some tank repair epoxy and some gas cans in hand we went back to camp . We took the tank out and fixed the pin hole. Mission accomplished. It didn’t have pads so we put it all back together and the rest is history until now. Time to put it back together right with pads this time.

It’s funny to see the old epoxy on the tank still. That stuff really held!! No one would pay any attention to it, but I like that to me, this random patch of stuff has a good story.

I am going to clean it up and try to re-patch it. There doesn’t seem to be any tank repair places near me, and this epoxy lasted 20 years… so seems worth another shot maybe. The rest of the tank still seems very solid thankfully.