Awesome! :]
Seems like a 2 bannana job after the cutting is done
Seems like a 2 bannana job after the cutting is done
Build Clifford is home again- a 1965 FJ40 FST
- Thread starter red66toy
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #662
Hey ! Sorry for the bad updates on this. I have been going SUPER slow. Life has been crazy busy and I have limited metal skills so I have been learning as I go. 
That being said, I feel like I can see the light at the end of this tunnel... I think I finally got the last hard shape done. I'll snap some pics and upload them soon. But I have been following @Skreddy 's lead based on his pics. As he mentioned, the rods on the side interfere with the hump sidewall once you put on the adapter, so you need to push the sidewalls out a bit. Not a big deal, and you need to anyways because when you raise that top section up 2" you need to angle the sidewalls more vertical to match the new angles.
This whole project would be very easy for a someone with more skills than I... like @Skreddy But its not hard.
I do still want to make a mold of this thing once its done. I realized as I was building up my 65 hump that the later 3 speed humps are different! So we may have to make two molds, one of mine and one of @Skreddy 's .
That being said, I feel like I can see the light at the end of this tunnel... I think I finally got the last hard shape done. I'll snap some pics and upload them soon. But I have been following @Skreddy 's lead based on his pics. As he mentioned, the rods on the side interfere with the hump sidewall once you put on the adapter, so you need to push the sidewalls out a bit. Not a big deal, and you need to anyways because when you raise that top section up 2" you need to angle the sidewalls more vertical to match the new angles.This whole project would be very easy for a someone with more skills than I... like @Skreddy
But its not hard.I do still want to make a mold of this thing once its done. I realized as I was building up my 65 hump that the later 3 speed humps are different! So we may have to make two molds, one of mine and one of @Skreddy 's .
Last edited:
Whoa! That's great to hear @red66toy 
The days go by so quick and there's so many other things to do. Its hard to find the time. I'm eager to see how your tunnel is coming along!
For the molds, we're you thinking of re-creating a fiberglass or even a stamped steel version of them? It would help out a lot of people, for anyone doing a 4 speed conversion and are having issue with clearance issues.
The days go by so quick and there's so many other things to do. Its hard to find the time. I'm eager to see how your tunnel is coming along!
For the molds, we're you thinking of re-creating a fiberglass or even a stamped steel version of them? It would help out a lot of people, for anyone doing a 4 speed conversion and are having issue with clearance issues.
Skreddy
SILVER Star
To be clear, there aren’t clearance issues with a straight 3 speed for 4 speed swap are there; since you cut a hole for the shifter? My only clearance seemed to come in using the adapter to retain the column shift with the 4 speed. The tunnel only came up by the height of the adapter.Whoa! That's great to hear @red66toy
The days go by so quick and there's so many other things to do. Its hard to find the time. I'm eager to see how your tunnel is coming along!
For the molds, we're you thinking of re-creating a fiberglass or even a stamped steel version of them? It would help out a lot of people, for anyone doing a 4 speed conversion and are having issue with clearance issues.
- Thread starter
- #665
I don't think there are clearance issues with a straight swap..... But I could be totally wrong.
You guys are right..... But, in my case, something was stopping me from getting the transmission cover on. The biggest issue was having a transfer-case saver. I bought the "heavy-duty" version, which is extra long, and impeeds the top-cover from Sitting flush on the floor. It's only about 0.25 inches of clearance issue, but thats just enough to prevent it from sitting as it should.
YES, I could remove it, but in my particular case, if I were to remove it now, it would cause big issue. The main bolt that passes through the t-case saver and t-case itself is being held together with a helicoil. If I were to remove the bolt, the helicoil will come out (I already tried it). And I need that helicoil in place since the threads are stripped between transmission and t-case. So I was stuck in a rock and a hard place.
The 1st Pic you can kinda tell thst the t-case saver (black) is hitting the tranmission tunnel on the left hand side of the picture. It's hitting near the breather port of the t-case.
Also, my 4 speed transmission is an early style h41, so the top cover is totally different from the later style h42 and later h41. I had to cut the hump in a stupid shape just for it to kinda fit on there.
My future plan, to get the colum shift working, is to take out the internals of the
H41 cover and swap it over into a h42 cover. Then I should be able to do "4 on the tree". It's a long shot, and the shifter forks are different. Hopefully I will be able to.
Now for a little redemption =)
I went ahead and cut/hammered a 4-speed cover, brand new, from Topnault (Chinese manufacture). This was a 1 banana job so far. All I needed was a BFH (big fuggin' hammer) and an angle grinder.
My transfer case saver now has the proper clearance as well as the transmission itself. As discussed earlier, the 4 speed cover is 1.5 inches taller than a 3 speed cover. This 4 speed cover is also a wider on both sides, so clearance issues for the colum shift adapter "should" be non-existent (hopefully).
You have to cut the rear part of the tunnel since it's too long. I traced out the pattern using my orginal 3 speed cover.
I had to hammer in the corner where the gas tank goes. On a brand new 4-speed cover, it bulges out and prevents the early 3-speed gas tank from sitting all the way down. Several hard hits with a hammer and that bulging part of metal disappears. I did a s*** job, but it can't be seen once the gas tank and passengers seat get put on.
Also needed to cut where the hump sits ontop of the ribbing of the floor boards. This happened on the passenger side toward the top. It makes direct contact and stops the tunnel from sitting flat on the floor.
I then hammered on the driver side. That part of the tunnel sits on one of the "ribbing" on the floor but easily takes shape.
I had to hammer down the rear corners as well, for whatever reason, there's bulging metal there as well and won't sit flush.
Lastly, I will need to fill in a gap by welding in some metal. This will be on the passengers side under the gas tank. It will just require a small "rectangular" section of newly welded metal.
The last photo is looking down from above the gas tank. The metal bulge is gone and now the gas tank sits nicely. Awful to look at the quality work I did, but I don't care at this point =p
I went ahead and cut/hammered a 4-speed cover, brand new, from Topnault (Chinese manufacture). This was a 1 banana job so far. All I needed was a BFH (big fuggin' hammer) and an angle grinder.
My transfer case saver now has the proper clearance as well as the transmission itself. As discussed earlier, the 4 speed cover is 1.5 inches taller than a 3 speed cover. This 4 speed cover is also a wider on both sides, so clearance issues for the colum shift adapter "should" be non-existent (hopefully).
You have to cut the rear part of the tunnel since it's too long. I traced out the pattern using my orginal 3 speed cover.
I had to hammer in the corner where the gas tank goes. On a brand new 4-speed cover, it bulges out and prevents the early 3-speed gas tank from sitting all the way down. Several hard hits with a hammer and that bulging part of metal disappears. I did a s*** job, but it can't be seen once the gas tank and passengers seat get put on.
Also needed to cut where the hump sits ontop of the ribbing of the floor boards. This happened on the passenger side toward the top. It makes direct contact and stops the tunnel from sitting flat on the floor.
I then hammered on the driver side. That part of the tunnel sits on one of the "ribbing" on the floor but easily takes shape.
I had to hammer down the rear corners as well, for whatever reason, there's bulging metal there as well and won't sit flush.
Lastly, I will need to fill in a gap by welding in some metal. This will be on the passengers side under the gas tank. It will just require a small "rectangular" section of newly welded metal.
The last photo is looking down from above the gas tank. The metal bulge is gone and now the gas tank sits nicely. Awful to look at the quality work I did, but I don't care at this point =p
Just want to show that this is possibly the fastest way to go about any 4 speed swap as far as getting a taller tunnel. Even more so considering the colum shift adapter. And, it was very easy for someone who doesn't have the talent at welding things very well. I don't know why I waited so long suffering with all the exhaust/engine heat and noise from the road.
I was able to get the tunnel at a discounted "sale price" through cruiser corps, several months ago, plus free shipping.
Edit: anyone wanting to go this route, just pay attention to how the tunnel sits on your floor, mark the tunnel with a sharpie, then make the appropriate cuts. It'll take a few times to get the correct cuts and measurements, but it's stupid easy to do. Easily done in one day (minus welding up the big gap on the passengers side)
I was able to get the tunnel at a discounted "sale price" through cruiser corps, several months ago, plus free shipping.
Edit: anyone wanting to go this route, just pay attention to how the tunnel sits on your floor, mark the tunnel with a sharpie, then make the appropriate cuts. It'll take a few times to get the correct cuts and measurements, but it's stupid easy to do. Easily done in one day (minus welding up the big gap on the passengers side)
Last edited:
I appreciate this post in particular, because I have wondered for a while about the interchangeability. Other than the obvious part of cutting off the tail, that’s as much as I figured.
I had mentioned to Topnault during our consultations that IMO they should forego making the older tunnels bc so many people were/are doing the 4 speed swap.
If I were closer, I’d offer to help with the passenger side floorboard fit, out of sheer curiosity.
Look forward to seeing your progress
I wonder if you could cut that raised gap section off the passenger side of the hump, then cut that section area off your 3 speed hump so you could adapt it to the 4 speed hump so it will conform to the floor.
- Thread starter
- #672
Finally got done with cutting and welding the transmission hump! Lots of nights with just a little spare time so it took a bit. This was my first real welding project and I think it came out pretty decent!
Next step is to 2k epoxy primer, then a little quality filler, then paint. My lofty/unrealistic goal is to get it done by Tuesday for the local cruiser meeting...
Next step is to 2k epoxy primer, then a little quality filler, then paint. My lofty/unrealistic goal is to get it done by Tuesday for the local cruiser meeting...
That line from Star Trek comes to mind:Finally got done with cutting and welding the transmission hump! Lots of nights with just a little spare time so it took a bit. This was my first real welding project and I think it came out pretty decent!
Next step is to 2k epoxy primer, then a little quality filler, then paint. My lofty/unrealistic goal is to get it done by Tuesday for the local cruiser meeting...
View attachment 3985666
Boldly going where no man has gone before!
Nice work!Finally got done with cutting and welding the transmission hump! Lots of nights with just a little spare time so it took a bit. This was my first real welding project and I think it came out pretty decent!
Next step is to 2k epoxy primer, then a little quality filler, then paint. My lofty/unrealistic goal is to get it done by Tuesday for the local cruiser meeting...
View attachment 3985666
- Thread starter
- #675
Boldly following @Skreddy ‘s lead
Thankfully had his modification pictures to guide me on how to tackle this.
Super excited to have this completed and drive the 40 again.
:] That looks perfect!
Also, I really want to add something again. This entire process is taking so long to do. I'm using a 4 speed cover. Still not yet converted to 4 on the tree. I test fit the cover with foam gasket and it fits and drove it.
But also..... A big BUT. I added some heat insulation to the underside of the transmission tunnel. And wow. It made a huge difference. Granted, the weather outside is cooling down, but holy heck, I remember driving around and putting my hand on the transmission tunnel before and my hand hurt from how hot it would get. Now imagine all that heat transferring into the inside of your cab and making you uncomfortably hot. And aside from that, it really made things quiet inside the cab. At least I noticed a big difference. I 100% recommend you doing this. The most I can feel now is some warmth, but thst was after long time highway use. And I said "some" warmth. This thing blocks heat very well
A few things to note though, if you plan to be driving where's there a lot of Puddles of water and you do not have your transmission skid plate in place, there is a big chance that water will get splashed onto the underside of your transmission and get the foam/aluminum insulation wet. It does state that it is water resistant, but we all know that is not true most of the time or at least it will end up trapping water. Luckily for me, I live in a dry desert and hot environment where rain and water Crossings are not a common occurrence. So there is long-term testing to be done here. But I am 100% satisfied with the way this insulation has performed.
With your four on the tree adapter, I do not know how close the insulation would get to the linkages for the column shift on the driver's side. But if it does end up rubbing too close to the insulation, you could still place the insulation on at least 75% of the transmission tunnel and still see a big difference and temperature and Noise.
Insulation material
The the link that I posted is for Amazon purchase, and it is for the large size insulation mat. I've calculated this one will cover two entire transmission tunnels based on what I have left over . Perhaps you would be able to find the same brand of material but in smaller size/quantity if you only plan to cover one transmission tunnel
Original 3 speed on the left. Modified 4 speed on right
Also, I really want to add something again. This entire process is taking so long to do. I'm using a 4 speed cover. Still not yet converted to 4 on the tree. I test fit the cover with foam gasket and it fits and drove it.
But also..... A big BUT. I added some heat insulation to the underside of the transmission tunnel. And wow. It made a huge difference. Granted, the weather outside is cooling down, but holy heck, I remember driving around and putting my hand on the transmission tunnel before and my hand hurt from how hot it would get. Now imagine all that heat transferring into the inside of your cab and making you uncomfortably hot. And aside from that, it really made things quiet inside the cab. At least I noticed a big difference. I 100% recommend you doing this. The most I can feel now is some warmth, but thst was after long time highway use. And I said "some" warmth. This thing blocks heat very well
A few things to note though, if you plan to be driving where's there a lot of Puddles of water and you do not have your transmission skid plate in place, there is a big chance that water will get splashed onto the underside of your transmission and get the foam/aluminum insulation wet. It does state that it is water resistant, but we all know that is not true most of the time or at least it will end up trapping water. Luckily for me, I live in a dry desert and hot environment where rain and water Crossings are not a common occurrence. So there is long-term testing to be done here. But I am 100% satisfied with the way this insulation has performed.
With your four on the tree adapter, I do not know how close the insulation would get to the linkages for the column shift on the driver's side. But if it does end up rubbing too close to the insulation, you could still place the insulation on at least 75% of the transmission tunnel and still see a big difference and temperature and Noise.
Insulation material
The the link that I posted is for Amazon purchase, and it is for the large size insulation mat. I've calculated this one will cover two entire transmission tunnels based on what I have left over . Perhaps you would be able to find the same brand of material but in smaller size/quantity if you only plan to cover one transmission tunnel
Original 3 speed on the left. Modified 4 speed on right
Skreddy
SILVER Star
I second the insulation. I’ll be adding it to mine this summer. The tunnel and driver floor was over 115 degrees driving around this summer (checked with IR gun). 30 degrees warmer than the passenger side floor when I checked.
@red66toy those 2k paints and primers are awesome! I used Wesco when I had them mix my color into a 2k rattle can. 2 cans did my tunnel and whole front floor. Tunnel looks great!
- Thread starter
- #679
Excellent, nice work! I was thinking of a strategy for heat shielding. My plan right now is to make floor mats using the pyramid rubber and having a layer of insulation under it. I am still worried about moisture between the floor mats and the floor so material choice will be key.
Thank you and thank you for providing the key template.
Yeah the 2k is pricey but hoping it will be worth it in the long run.
- Thread starter
- #680
Got the bottom painted today. Did heavy body seam sealer on the welds then top coated in 2k black that was nearing expiration so it was good I finally used it. Top next!
Last edited: