The rear main was much easier than I thought it would be to do. But the worst job even on the engine stand is taking the oil pan gasket off.
Build Clifford is home again- a 1965 FJ40 FST
- Thread starter red66toy
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- #502
Yeah, I left the drum attachment point alone. And even in the FSM they went this route. No one likes messing with that drum setup. Hahaha.
So yeah, the two firewall bolts. One of mine broke when I first replaced the cable last year. So definitely soak in penetrant before giving them a go. They are small bolts, I want to say M6?. Then it’s just the little cotter pin within the cable to handle attachment point. The cotter pin can be a pain since it’s way up there. But after that the pin should slide out and the whole assembly will be free.
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- #503
Yeah the oil pan is always so so fun.
I bought these little helpers since @Spike Strip recommended them. They are AWESOME when doing the pan under the truck. It made the pan install so much better.
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- #504
I layed down some penetrol on the gas tank area of the tub on the advice of @Kleatus . This stuff will seep into all the pores and seal the rust that is there. Despite the holes, it's all still very solid so I am not going to entertain that rabbit hole. There is a rust hole in the tub channel with the tank pads. I am going to cut a small square in it so I can feed in a spray hose. I am going to soak the inside of this normally sealed channel with a cavity wax or fluid film. Should help stabilize things.
@red66toy
Does the Penetrol 'Dry" ? I've only ever used it as a paint additive.
Does the Penetrol 'Dry" ? I've only ever used it as a paint additive.
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- #506
I believe it dries to a somewhat flexible film. I don't think it's like a hard dry.
In our warm climate if fully dries hard. I would use a step drill on the rust holes to cut away the rotten edges on the holes and then seal it up with Penetrol. I leave them open for better drainage but you can put a sized rubber grommet in there too
Awesome! So lets read the tea leaves here...
The overlay is still intact, no copper showing. So not put under heavy loads for long periods of time and/or you have low mileage. If copper was showing, it's likely they are all like this and your new rear main would be leaking again in short order. This is also sometimes what takes out pilot bushings from misalignment. The crank sits just ever so much lower. Also takes out the front pump on automatic transmissions.
Even wear. No shiny spots. I know this is just the rear main cap so really not the best example, but even wear is an indication your crank is relatively balanced / not bent from abuse.
Some scratches and debris embedded into the bearing surface. That sucks but your bearing is not to bad. About what I would expect with an oil bath air cleaner and our old school oil filter system. That new rear main will help keep crap out of there also.
Diagnosis... plenty of life left in that baby!
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- #509
Thanks!
Yeah hopefully there is plenty of life in the old tractor motor for a few years to come. I hate when it’s out of commission .
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- #510
Got the clutch in! Put thread sealer on the flywheel bolts and torqued to 60ftlbs. Put in the pilot bearing. Put on the clutch and pressure plate and torqued the plate bolts to 19ftlbs.
I was amazed how much dirt and rust was packed in these channels! I found an old FJ62 air pump hose that was the perfect size and used it as a vacuum extension. Hahaha. Cleaned both channels out and soaked them in fluid film!
I was amazed how much dirt and rust was packed in these channels! I found an old FJ62 air pump hose that was the perfect size and used it as a vacuum extension. Hahaha. Cleaned both channels out and soaked them in fluid film!
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- #511
Been a bit since I updated but I have been chipping away at little things in prep for the drivetrain install.
I linked up with my buddy who made the 11mm hose to 10mm slave cylinder adapter. A perfect fit! Excited to get this installed.
One thing I needed to do before I could do the drivetrain install was fix a couple captive nut issues for the hump. One I had to weld a fitting on a broken bolt so I could extract it. The second I had to cut and weld on a whole new captive nut. Its been a loooong time since I welded so it's a bit bad... but it's solid. I am going to paint it and then coat in cosmoline.
Next steps are to install a fender washer under the front motor mounts to tilt the engine a little. Plan is to install the drivetrain next week! Super excited.
I tried to install this OEM cover on the bellhousing but the fit is terrible! I designed a new better cover that bolts in and still has a vent. Waiting for it to get done printing.
I linked up with my buddy who made the 11mm hose to 10mm slave cylinder adapter. A perfect fit! Excited to get this installed.
One thing I needed to do before I could do the drivetrain install was fix a couple captive nut issues for the hump. One I had to weld a fitting on a broken bolt so I could extract it. The second I had to cut and weld on a whole new captive nut. Its been a loooong time since I welded so it's a bit bad... but it's solid.
I am going to paint it and then coat in cosmoline. Next steps are to install a fender washer under the front motor mounts to tilt the engine a little. Plan is to install the drivetrain next week! Super excited.
I tried to install this OEM cover on the bellhousing but the fit is terrible! I designed a new better cover that bolts in and still has a vent. Waiting for it to get done printing.
Green Bean
SILVER Star
Chase: Very interested in the shimming of the front motor mounts to lower the rear of the T-Case in order to clear the parking brake/cross member issue. I'm glad that you are paving the way! My one-banana mechanic skills are being sorely tested.
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- #513
Alright! So I have been busy tackling the shimming of the engine. After talking with @Skreddy I knew I needed at least two thick fender washers under each front motor mount and then needed to shim the radiator support up 3/8" (or two extra OEM fabric pads).
For the motor mount shims I used these two washers ( one is 1/8" thick and the other is 7/64" thick), and I stacked them on top and bottom of the motor mount. This gave me a 0.23" lift at the front motor mounts. The top washer has a 3/4" opening to clear the top stud and the bottom has a 1/2" opening to clear the 12mm stud. I also used new motor mounts from City Racer.
Not surprisingly this resulted in the fan hitting the shroud. I added two more OEM fabric pads to each side of the radiator shroud and used two OEM 40mm long M10 bolts to secure it all down. The fan now is perfectly aligned in the shroud!
While I was in there, I noticed the gasket on the water pump was weeping a little, so I took the pump back out, made new gaskets and sealed it all up. Pressure test to come soon.
So now the plan is drivetrain next week. Big thank you to @Skreddy for answering my questions. 
For the motor mount shims I used these two washers ( one is 1/8" thick and the other is 7/64" thick), and I stacked them on top and bottom of the motor mount. This gave me a 0.23" lift at the front motor mounts. The top washer has a 3/4" opening to clear the top stud and the bottom has a 1/2" opening to clear the 12mm stud. I also used new motor mounts from City Racer.
Not surprisingly this resulted in the fan hitting the shroud. I added two more OEM fabric pads to each side of the radiator shroud and used two OEM 40mm long M10 bolts to secure it all down. The fan now is perfectly aligned in the shroud!
While I was in there, I noticed the gasket on the water pump was weeping a little, so I took the pump back out, made new gaskets and sealed it all up. Pressure test to come soon.
So now the plan is drivetrain next week.
Big thank you to @Skreddy for answering my questions.
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- #515
Holy moly what a fiddly operation! But the assembly is in! Took a friend and I 2 hours to get done. I unfortunately didn’t have the parking brake parts reinstalled since I assumed you could take all that off and on once the tranny was installed… but nope. Hits the rear cross member. So I’ll have to tilt the rear end down so I can install the drum. But that is small potatoes. Happy this is finally in. Shimming the motor gave the transfer case juuuuust enough room to clear the tub. Thanks @Skreddy for that key tip. Also, thank you to @Green Bean for tips as he was installing his.
Driveshafts and linkages are next on the list!
Driveshafts and linkages are next on the list!
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Green Bean
SILVER Star
Congrats. It’s like squeezing 10 pounds of potatoes into an 8 pound bag.
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- #517
Indeed!
Skreddy
SILVER Star
I did the same thing with the parking brake and had to lift the front of the engine to tilt the rear down. Doesn’t take much at all.
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- #519
Yeah I learned the hard way when I was installing my 4 speed on my 71.