Choke cable variations (2 Viewers)

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hello
i need choke and throttle cables for a 66 fj40.
anyone?

thanks

hey carlos ,

If U have not found your choke & throttle yet Contact @65swb45 , He will have both parts in-stock for U
 
1965 FJ40 USA spec. LHD

- Refurbished Choke Cable assy. W / New solid core wire & new coil spring liner

- Aluminum trim ring polished out

- New Reproduction Brass Hex dash Retainer nut


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The 78310-90A02 is one of the most Rare Land Cruiser Choke Cables I have come across .............o_O

It's USA spec. technical application is 1981-1982 FJ60 & is the predecessor of the electric equipped & Amber Lighted knob equipped Chokes introduced in the 1983 Model year , A same in kind but shorter version was installed in the FJ40 in the 1982 Model Year USA spec for Only a few later production months prior to the 1983 Amber knob choke

It also has a removable knob and small diameter shaft

Take note there is No longer a ratchet stop , rather a ball bearing and spring made into the plastic main body housing that is no longer metal , this now provides the ever more familiar and increased numbers of " clicks " when pulled in and out

The ever increasing number of ratchet stops on Land Cruiser choke cables into the early 1980's was done in efforts to curb emissions in thought by giving the driver more control over the needed choke positions @ cold start / warm up cycle

The more ratchet stops the newer the choke cable , the less or simply one , the older Siamese F = NONE

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In this Restored example we have a 1/79 FJ40 , The Overall length Of the Black Housing or Liner was 450mm , the guide tube from knob to tail is 150mm

This is a Phillips Head set screw Type Choke Cable assy. , it attaches to the Choke Butterfly on the Carburetor Via a set screw type crimp , this style was used By Toyota on the 2F engine From 1/75 - 7/80 , Also on All Older F engines

The set screw takes it's toll on the Original mild steel strand wire cable , and after a few good "Sinch-downs"
would begin to fracture & splay the individual strands

I apply a Post Production / Pre-Restoration phase Remedy for this by Brazing the last 2 inches of the strand wire cable SOLID in 56% Pure " troy-weight " Silver Alloy

In addition I have upgraded to Marine Grade JIS Stainless Steel strand wire cable , witch is stronger and less prone to impact crush damage by the set screw

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I know where that one goes!!!


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Thx Matt

Your Welcome !

Side Note Related To Choke Cable removal & Install, Im assuming Your wiper switch is pulled to gain access to the hex nut retainer , make sure U Polish the flat ground contact strip and the rotate ground contact on the front of the switch too , use a mild emery cloth

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Your Welcome !

Side Note Related To Choke Cable removal & Install, Im assuming Your wiper switch is pulled to gain access to the 17mm hex nut retainer , make sure U Polish the flat ground contact strip and the rotate ground contact on the front of the switch too , use a mild emery cloth

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I had to do that to get my wipers to work a few months ago!
 
Aluminum Trim-Face bezel's Polished-out to Bright on Mini-Lathe

before & after ...



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Matt

I honestly don’t know how you make any money doing these. People just don’t realize how many hours that level of detail takes. I often end up doing the same with my carbs, as does coolerman with his harnesses, so we know. ;)
 
Matt

I honestly don’t know how you make any money doing these. People just don’t realize how many hours that level of detail takes. I often end up doing the same with my carbs, as does coolerman with his harnesses, so we know. ;)


It takes on Average of 7-8 Hours Per Choke Cable assy. from start to finish
 
I have to ask, I tried to fix my choke cable a few years ago and had some trouble. It was the metal wire/rod style in the metal wound sleeve. My dad and I had cut it shorter for a Holley conversion. Went back to stock years ago but it was binding because it was too short. So I tried to repair it using a generic mower throttle cable.

What got me in the process was how the original wire was attached to the inner handle piece. It wasn't solder, as a propane torch would not melt it. I had to carefully cut out the fill material to open the hollow end of the barrel and remove the wire. I reinserted the new and tried to reproduce the factory crimp there and tried to puddle some solder on it, but it did not really want to stick. Of course crimping the housing back in was not bad. Cable worked all of a few months until the wire slipped out of the inner shaft. Had to take it all back apart and try again. I think I bumped it with the mig welder this time around. So far has held, but I'm very gentle with it.

I just couldn't figure out what they used from the factory, didn't seem copper colored like brazing, but maybe it was, curious what it was and how you do it?
 
I have to ask, I tried to fix my choke cable a few years ago and had some trouble. It was the metal wire/rod style in the metal wound sleeve. My dad and I had cut it shorter for a Holley conversion. Went back to stock years ago but it was binding because it was too short. So I tried to repair it using a generic mower throttle cable.

What got me in the process was how the original wire was attached to the inner handle piece. It wasn't solder, as a propane torch would not melt it. I had to carefully cut out the fill material to open the hollow end of the barrel and remove the wire. I reinserted the new and tried to reproduce the factory crimp there and tried to puddle some solder on it, but it did not really want to stick. Of course crimping the housing back in was not bad. Cable worked all of a few months until the wire slipped out of the inner shaft. Had to take it all back apart and try again. I think I bumped it with the mig welder this time around. So far has held, but I'm very gentle with it.

I just couldn't figure out what they used from the factory, didn't seem copper colored like brazing, but maybe it was, curious what it was and how you do it?


The Solid core & strand wire cable is factory pressed into the D Groove shaft , then crimped
 
Hmm, sure seemed like something was melted into the groove with the solid wire. As I said, I thought it was solder, but it wouldn't melt out. I'll crimp down harder next time it fails.
 
This is what a choke knob looks like from a 1981 FJ43 imported from Columbia.

And of course after 38 years the cable broke!
Now it’s with Matt who seems just thrilled to repair it because he’s never seen a choke knob like it.

Keeping it interesting!





devo

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While Not a Choke Cable , related never the less


Todays Projects included wrapping up a 1977 FJ40 WARM PULL cable ,

- New Black Cable housing

- refinished Pull Knob ( New white Painted text Font , entire knob Polished out )

- Polished-Out Guide Tube , Brass & Copper

- New ( Thicker then Stock ) Solid Brass End Cab Ferrell

- Refinished solid core cable

- It Pushes , Pulls & slides Like Toyota Intended it to
 

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