Builds Box Rocket 1995 FZJ80 Build (1 Viewer)

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Goose-Gear drawers have been getting some good testing over the past few weeks since putting them in. Organization of gear in the truck is much improved. Tried them as a sleeping platform, and with the second seat backs folded down they are just the right height to match the height of the drawers. I have an extra RTT mattress that I use if we use the drawers as a sleeping platform and it's worked out really well and very comfortable.
IMG_4284 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

IMG_3972 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

IMG_3982 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

IMG_3989 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

Untitled by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
 
Goose-Gear drawers have been getting some good testing over the past few weeks since putting them in. Organization of gear in the truck is much improved. Tried them as a sleeping platform, and with the second seat backs folded down they are just the right height to match the height of the drawers. I have an extra RTT mattress that I use if we use the drawers as a sleeping platform and it's worked out really well and very comfortable.
IMG_4284 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

IMG_3972 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

IMG_3982 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

IMG_3989 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

Untitled by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
Those drawers are super slick. Where do you put your fridge when you sleep on the full platform? Just on the ground?
 
Those drawers are super slick. Where do you put your fridge when you sleep on the full platform? Just on the ground?
For now, yes. Exploring other solutions but we've just been putting it outside the truck but keeping it plugged in.
 
We just scored this '97 non locked 80 in sage green. It's completely stock minus the PIAA lights and head unit. This thread is just incredible. Thank you to Box Rocket, your build is truly inspirational as others have mentioned. Looking forward to building it up and exploring with it.
80.jpg
 
We just scored this '97 non locked 80 in sage green. It's completely stock minus the PIAA lights and head unit. This thread is just incredible. Thank you to Box Rocket, your build is truly inspirational as others have mentioned. Looking forward to building it up and exploring with it.
View attachment 2109697
Very nice! Looks like a great truck and one of the best colors too. Best of luck with your build. Don't hesitate to reach out if I can help in any way. Thanks
 
welp, first page of your build thread, love the bumper, I google "custom homebuilt front bumper"...…… turns out its just a custom home built front bumper you probably made at home..... page one, about to kill 2-3 hours going down this 38 page thread ....lol
 
We just scored this '97 non locked 80 in sage green. It's completely stock minus the PIAA lights and head unit. This thread is just incredible. Thank you to Box Rocket, your build is truly inspirational as others have mentioned. Looking forward to building it up and exploring with it.
View attachment 2109697
I thinking to pickup a lx450. Your look nice.
 
Very nice! Looks like a great truck and one of the best colors too. Best of luck with your build. Don't hesitate to reach out if I can help in any way. Thanks
Box Rocket almost finishing reading up on your build,
 
Finished up the leather replacement on the second row over the weekend. The original leather was in bad shape. Got the leather from Lseat and chose to do black leather. Overall the new leather seems pretty good. Fitment was good (few places a bit on the loose side, but better than too tight) and stitching looked good. It's not the softest leather ever but seems very durable and the price is good. I'm sure there is better leather out there but overall I'm happy with the result.

Rear seats by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

Rear seats by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

Rear seats by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

Rear seats by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

Nice to have the back seats match the front seats again.
IMG_3420 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

IMG_3421 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

IMG_3422 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

IMG_3424 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

IMG_3426 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
Where do you got the seats cover? looking great!
 
Just got done reading through your thread (for a second time :) ). I've got a question on the front axle relocation. Could you have pushed the axle forward less (say 3/4"), still gained enough firewall clearance, and avoided some of the front wheel well alterations?
 
Just got done reading through your thread (for a second time :) ). I've got a question on the front axle relocation. Could you have pushed the axle forward less (say 3/4"), still gained enough firewall clearance, and avoided some of the front wheel well alterations?
Yes it's possible to do that. But I don't know if it would eliminate the front wheel well rubbing completely. Based on the amount I trimmed, I think it would still rub. However, that's with a 3" lift and 1" over stock height bumpstops. A taller lift and/or more bumpstop could solve it. My goal was to keep the truck as low as possible with the lift and not limit travel with bumpstops if possible.

Where do you got the seats cover? looking great!
Got them from Lseat.com
 
On your goose gear drawers did you also buy the rear plate system or were you able to install without it?
Using the base plate. The way they are designed the plate system is necessary. Basically the base plate bolts down to the floor with the 3rd row seat bolts on the floor. Then the drawer module bolts to the plate with captured t nuts that are part of the base plate.
 
Was able to sneak away from family holiday commitments for a bit a couple days ago and finally got my LCP heavy duty rear swaybar links installed. To Phil's chagrin, I painted over the clear zinc coating. I'm sure the paint wasn't necessary but I wanted to make them a bit less "flashy" with bit of black paint. Seriously impressed with the "Beef" of these things. Should be substantially stronger than stock ones (which I've broken twice because of the HD Blackhawk swaybar).

My 80's stock link brackets were the strap bolted to the side of the frame rather than the bracket that bolts to the bottom of the frame. The holes are there on the bottom of the frame but mine only had holes, no captured nuts or threaded holes. So I ordered the new links with the Nutsert kit that Phil offers. Phil includes all new hardware and an ingenious way of setting the nutserts. A long "nut" gets used as a spacer with a longer bolt that squishes the nutsert in place as you tighten it. Once it's set, remove the long bolt and use the supplied hardware to attach the bracket. However, I had a bit of an issue. On the first nutsert the supplied long bolt snapped before the nutsert was set. It wasn't too difficult to remove the broken bolt and I had another one on hand that I was able to use to finish it up. Wasn't a huge deal for me and a real nutsert installation tool would be a bit easier but also quite a bit more cost if you had to add the tool.

In any case I chose to run a weld bead along the front and back edges of the bracket just as a second level of security. I can always go back to my other links/brackets if these were ever to break, but I highly doubt these will be breaking anytime soon.

The Blackhawk swaybar was pretty chipped so I hit it with a fresh coat of paint before bolting everything up. Looking forward to putting this through some testing. I already know what to expect in term of performance with the Blackhawk swaybar (which is awesome) but without the worry of snapping the stock links. Here's a few pics.
Swaybar links by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

Swaybar links by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

Swaybar links by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

Swaybar links by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

Swaybar links by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

Swaybar links by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

Swaybar links by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
 
Phil hit a Grand Slam on those brackets.
 

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