Builds Box Rocket 1995 FZJ80 Build

[Box Rocket]

Some may also notice that the center caps are off the Icon wheels. I removed my 1.5" spacers just to see how much they affected tire clearances. Tires stuff into the fenders with quite a bit of room after losing 3" of track width. Probably better, but I miss the extra width already.

 

[Box Rocket]

Great pictures, i have also installed the front Timbren bumps and the axle is about an inch from hitting the Timbren. The tires were not hitting the front bumper as i did not extend my LCA. My front wheel is free from any sheet metal and no contact on fender lips so far.

You have 37x12.50's right? That's an inch narrower tire.

 

[Marco Lau]

You have 37x12.50's right? That's an inch narrower tire.

Yep, also my wheels are 17 x 8.5 w/ 4.75 bs

 

[Corbet]

Adam,

I’m about to go down this path but with 37x12.5 and 17x9” -12mm offset wheels. My rear lowers are also longer but don’t recall the LandTanks spec. Any words of wisdom? Already have Timbrens, prefer to trim as little as possible. Slee 4” Heavies.

Thanks Corbet

 

[Box Rocket]

Adam,

I’m about to go down this path but with 37x12.5 and 17x9” -12mm offset wheels. My rear lowers are also longer but don’t recall the LandTanks spec. Any words of wisdom? Already have Timbrens, prefer to trim as little as possible. Slee 4” Heavies.

Thanks Corbet

Well after wheeling for the past 10 days straight and testing my fitment in a variety of scenarios I still have a small amount of rubbing but nothing I’m too concerned about.

I had significant rubbing at the back of the front fenders/firewall area when I first put the 37’s in. This required some flare and inner fender trimming but I was able to keep the flares and a “stock” appearance. The biggest help in the front was moving the axle forward. This solved any of the rubbing at the back of the fenders. But it required me to trim some off my front bumper wings and inner fender. I think I cut about 2” off the front bumper wings. I replaced the inner fender bolts with button heads and that helped. I still rub the tips of the inner fenders when the tires stuff but he button heads are smooth. Keep an eye on the edge of the inner fender where it meets the outer fender. It was making small cuts in the tire tread when stuffed. I did a little hammer work to help that.

In the rear I cut about 2” off the rear bumper wings and trimmed the flares back to the metal bracket at the bottom of the fender. This will leave the metal fender as the area that will likely rub first. I used a hammer to flatten the inside edge of the fender. The back edge of the fender (metal) is polished after this week of wheeling but hasn’t damaged the tires at all.

I have a 1” body lift sitting at home that I may install and I think that will help with the remaining rubbing but none of it is causing any damage or limitations Offroad at this point.

 

[Corbet]

Thanks, that is good info. With my slightly smaller 37’s I should be in a little better shape. I just need to get the axle relocation right the first time. I’m not against massaging and minor trimming, I just don’t want to open up a cavity that then promotes rust.

 

[GW Nugget]

You have gone through great detail with this thread to fit these wider 37s... very impressed with the new bump stops. Do they have part numbers?

 

[Box Rocket]

You have gone through great detail with this thread to fit these wider 37s... very impressed with the new bump stops. Do they have part numbers?

I’ll have to look and see if I have part numbers.

 

[Box Rocket]

Had some additional trail time recently to further test the Timbren bumpstops with the 37s. I'm feeling satisfied with the steps I've taken to properly fit the 37's with the 3" Slinky lift. The truck worked well in Moab at the limits of flex. There is still light rubbing of the tires. The rear tires are rubbing the forward face of my rear bumper wings but its minor and doesn't cause any tire damage. The front tires have some light rubbing on the tops of the inner fenders near the fender lip. Replacing the bolts that hold the inner fender to the outer fender with button head bolts was a good move.

I have a 1" bodylift sitting on the shelf that I don't think is even necessary now, but I will probably still install it soon. It would mean I could reduce the bumpstop height a little.
IMG_3161 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

IMG_3254 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

IMG_3246 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

IMG_3252 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

My boys getting some driving time.
IMG_3250 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

IMG_3275 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

IMG_3285 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

Dragging the bumper on Gold Bar Rim. haha
IMG_3341 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

 

[Box Rocket]

I've found that the Trail Tailor front recovery points have done a good job of protecting my AC Dryer. I know they aren't designed for that specifically but numerous times now I have hit them on large rocks or big ledges. Had they not been there the AC dryer would have likely taken some damage.
IMG_3258 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

 

[Box Rocket]

Added a mount to my second swingout for my CO2 tank. I have some rear drawers that will be going into the back of the truck soon and the tank has been mounted inside the truck in the cargo area. So I needed to move to tank to make room for the drawers. Simple one hour mod.
CO2 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr


CO2 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

CO2 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

 

[Corbet]

I've found that the Trail Tailor front recovery points have done a good job of protecting my AC Dryer. I know they aren't designed for that specifically but numerous times now I have hit them on large rocks or big ledges. Had they not been there the AC dryer would have likely taken some damage.
IMG_3258 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

I believe a Camary dryer from same year will work as replacement and is half the height.

 

[baldilocks]

Had some additional trail time recently to further test the Timbren bumpstops with the 37s. I'm feeling satisfied with the steps I've taken to properly fit the 37's with the 3" Slinky lift. The truck worked well in Moab at the limits of flex. There is still light rubbing of the tires. The rear tires are rubbing the forward face of my rear bumper wings but its minor and doesn't cause any tire damage. The front tires have some light rubbing on the tops of the inner fenders near the fender lip. Replacing the bolts that hold the inner fender to the outer fender with button head bolts was a good move.

I have a 1" bodylift sitting on the shelf that I don't think is even necessary now, but I will probably still install it soon. It would mean I could reduce the bumpstop height a little.
IMG_3161 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

IMG_3254 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

IMG_3246 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

IMG_3252 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

My boys getting some driving time.
IMG_3250 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

IMG_3275 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

IMG_3285 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

Dragging the bumper on Gold Bar Rim. haha
IMG_3341 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

The last pic is where I snapped a Nitro axle shaft. How’d That go? I ended up winching to that buried axle shaft up top.

 

[Box Rocket]

The last pic is where I snapped a Nitro axle shaft. How’d That go? I ended up winching to that buried axle shaft up top.

I've never had trouble with that obstacle until that trip and it was just poor line choice. Rear bumper got hungup on the big boulder at the bottom and couldn't go forward or backward. Winched about 10" to dislodge the bumper and crawled right up.

skip to 1:30 if you don't want to watch winch line setup.

 

[Box Rocket]

I believe a Camary dryer from same year will work as replacement and is half the height.

That's good info. Thanks

 

[TYM4FUN]

Just bend it up out of the way...

 

[Lumpskie]

@Box Rocket How is wheeling on 37s compared to 315s? Can you get over stuff you previously couldn't?

 

[Box Rocket]

@Box Rocket How is wheeling on 37s compared to 315s? Can you get over stuff you previously couldn't?

Good and yes

 

[Box Rocket]

Finished up the leather replacement on the second row over the weekend. The original leather was in bad shape. Got the leather from Lseat and chose to do black leather. Overall the new leather seems pretty good. Fitment was good (few places a bit on the loose side, but better than too tight) and stitching looked good. It's not the softest leather ever but seems very durable and the price is good. I'm sure there is better leather out there but overall I'm happy with the result.

Rear seats by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

Rear seats by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

Rear seats by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

Rear seats by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

Nice to have the back seats match the front seats again.
IMG_3420 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

IMG_3421 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

IMG_3422 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

IMG_3424 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

IMG_3426 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

 

[Box Rocket]

Another weekend project was installing the new rear drawers from Goose-Gear. I chose a basic two drawer 50/50 split setup. Goose-gear's design uses a wall to wall perfect fit base plate that bolts down using the factory holes for the third row seat and corner tie downs. The drawers came with all new hardware so there's no need to reuse any of the factory bolts.
The base plate has t-nuts in all the right location to bolt the drawer module to the base. The base plate has more holes than what I needed so it's universal for any of the rear module configurations that Goose-Gear offers.
Latches are clean and strong.
There are side panel compartments with quality 5-way adjustable hinges for the perfect fit and it completes the top for a wall to wall platform that also runs from the tailgate to the back of the second row seats.

Truth be told Goose-gear is one of the more expensive options for drawers but the quality workmanship shows. It's obvious that these have been built after thousands of miles of testing offroad. They are solid and the construction is sturdy using an internal aluminum 80/20 extrusion frame, and quality sealed bearing drawer slides.

I'm looking forward to figuring out what items I will move to the drawers and then get out and use these things. Last thing to get sorted is a fridge drop slide. Hoping to have a solution for that soon.

Drawers arrived well packaged in a nice shipping crate and on a pallet.
Drawers by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

Everything was well protected inside.
Drawers by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

Installation is pretty straight forward and the drawers went in easily and all the holes lined up perfectly.
IMG_3419 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

Don't mind my fingerprints. All latches are locking so you know whatever you put inside can be locked away safely.
IMG_3414 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

IMG_3415 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

IMG_3413 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

IMG_3411 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

IMG_3412 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

IMG_3417 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

IMG_3418 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

Drawers by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

These are 8" high drawers. If the second row seats backs are folded down the seat backs are level with the top of the drawer module and could be used as a sleeping platform. But Goose-Gear does have a second row seat delete sleeping platform that can be added to this rear module and will go all the up the back of the front seats.