I'll have to take your word for it. I can't imagine it provides enough thickness to keep the feet from becoming metal on metal after a fairly short time even with no movement.
Builds Box Rocket 1995 FZJ80 Build
- Thread starter Box Rocket
- Start date
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I'll have to take your word for it. I can't imagine it provides enough thickness to keep the feet from becoming metal on metal after a fairly short time even with no movement.
Captain Sanuk
WAMPA
I wonder how hard it would be to get it to fit a 60? Sharp lookin rack that's for sure
Box Rocket
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- Thread starter
- #183
I'll try to answer several of the recent questions all at once. It does not and will not have any type of "padding" under the rail. You could easily add something on your own if you wanted to but the rack isn't moving around so I don't expect it to wear on the rain gutters.
The factory rack MUST be removed. the production racks will be 1" taller than mine to clear the roof ribs on trucks with factory racks, but the main outer rails of the factory rack need to be removed.
PrInSu is already talking with a local FJ60 owner and I would expect a 60 version sometime in the future. The curvature front to back of the gutters are different on a 60 so the 80 series one won't fit properly.
The factory rack MUST be removed. the production racks will be 1" taller than mine to clear the roof ribs on trucks with factory racks, but the main outer rails of the factory rack need to be removed.
PrInSu is already talking with a local FJ60 owner and I would expect a 60 version sometime in the future. The curvature front to back of the gutters are different on a 60 so the 80 series one won't fit properly.
My Inti came with some simple flat rubber that went under and in the gutters with with mounts. I haven't taken the rack off to see how the rubber has held up but it looks like something you could find just about anywhere.
danadog
Storm Trooper
I think a strip of a bicycle tube would work if you wanted to go this route.
1973Guppie
Supporting Vendor
not sure why you would want to keep those stock ribs on your roof anyhow?? personally I like how it fits tighter to the roof line anyhow......
NLXTACY
Wits' End
Exactly. I'd prefer to have it hug the roof more. Getting access to the nuts and bolts of the thing is only a very temporary issue.
Box Rocket
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- Thread starter
- #188
Sure. lots of possible solutions if you wanted to do something like that.
I can't remember if I mentioned this but I'll point out that if you plan to use a RTT on the rack, it can be a little bit of a challenge to tighten all the nuts to secure the tent to the rack since they are between the bottom of the rack and the roof. It's not too bad, but just a trade-off to the low-profile design. I'll gladly accept the challenge of those nuts as trade for the low-profile aspect of the rack. Just wanted to bring it up for those looking at it.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
@Box Rocket you may want to just start a new thread on this rack because its going to wind up overtaking the rest of your build which is a shame since your truck is nicely built. Of course the rack is nice too but the only people that know it exists are those that happen to be reading this thread. Just sayin' 
Box Rocket
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- Thread starter
- #190
Not a bad idea.
So glad I clicked into this thread- and the one about the rack itself. Awesome info in both. Thank you.
Box Rocket
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- Thread starter
- #192
Ordered a blue fan clutch from CDan today. (Thanks again Dan!). My truck has been getting a bit warm on steep climbs so I check the stock fan clutch and it spins with almost no resistance so it was a good time to upgrade. Hope to have it installed this weekend. I still need to find time to dig into my front axle and get it rebuilt. If anyone has a spare birf (or 2) or spare inner axles they'd be willing to part with, let me know. I'm trying to round up all my spare parts before CM.
Box Rocket
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- Thread starter
- #193
coolant temps have been a bit warm for my liking. Replaced the fan clutch and drive belts last night. Looking to do a preventative HG replacement this week.
ive got spare birfs and axles. give me a shout. i also have a number of other spare parts including new oem drive flanges.
Holy cow man how do you find the time?!?!coolant temps have been a bit warm for my liking. Replaced the fan clutch and drive belts last night. Looking to do a preventative HG replacement this week.
Box Rocket
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- Thread starter
- #196
Oh man. it's tough since I'm already working an 80 hour week. Usually just get a couple hours late at night or early in the morning once or maybe twice a week if I'm lucky. Fortunately the fan clutch and belts were pretty simple and didn't take long.
Box Rocket
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- Thread starter
- #197
Ok guys I need a little advice. I've been going through a million threads on the topic but I'm chasing some minor overheating. Most of the time the coolant temps seems normal, between 185-195*. But climbing long steep grades the coolant temps are rising to close to 215*. Little history. I purchased the truck in December so I don't have a clear picture of is past, but the radiator was replaced not long before I bought the truck. It's a Koyo Radiator that was installed by Safari LTD. Just a few weeks ago a good friend of mine who happens to be a Toyota Master Technician and a Toyota Regional Trainer took care of the PHH for me. While he was there he did a complete coolant flush/swap using Toyota Red (since there was Green in the truck when I bought it). He also replaced the thermostat upper and lower radiator hoses with OEM parts. I have also replaced the fan clutch with a new Blue fan clutch (didn't change the fluid in the new clutch and I'm using it as is), and I put new drive belts on while I was there.
I have no visible coolant leaks and have not noticed any coolant loss. But even with those changes the truck is still heating up on climbs. Today I went to try it again and it reached 212*. If I turn on the heater controls and the heater fan it will cool down to around 200*
I am thinking it is possibly a head gasket on its way out but could use some additional thoughts if anyone has any. Thanks!
I have no visible coolant leaks and have not noticed any coolant loss. But even with those changes the truck is still heating up on climbs. Today I went to try it again and it reached 212*. If I turn on the heater controls and the heater fan it will cool down to around 200*
I am thinking it is possibly a head gasket on its way out but could use some additional thoughts if anyone has any. Thanks!
Take an oil sample send it off to Blackstone.
Jack up the front end and make sure there are no air pockets in the system.
Check and make sure you have a "good" thermostat, even though it is new Toyota it could be faulty. Pull it put it in water see when it opens.
If everything checks ok pull the fan clutch add thicker fluid.
Jack up the front end and make sure there are no air pockets in the system.
Check and make sure you have a "good" thermostat, even though it is new Toyota it could be faulty. Pull it put it in water see when it opens.
If everything checks ok pull the fan clutch add thicker fluid.
+1 for oil test. I have had slight cavitation issues in a few rigs in the past and have used redline water wetter with positive results. I kind of doubt it's an issue in your case but it's worth 10-15$ just to check that box. I also had a -10 to -15℉ in overall operating temps on average when using it. Where you having issues with it spiking before the thermostat replacement? If not that'd be the next thing I would check.
I sure this is why OEM temp gauges have a bit of numbness built in to them. If we saw how temps fluctuated during normal driving we'd always think it was overheating. It's also why aftermarket digital gauges will turn you into a OCD crackwhore. IMO, seeing 215º on a steep climb is completely normal. On really long, steep grades I've gotten past 220 on a hot summer day but it quickly cools down afterwards. I wouldn't worry about it unless you see 215 in normal driving or stopped at a light.
