Builds Body work - fixing my '79 floors and other stuff (6 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Between the holidays, getting a cold, and sub zero temps not a lot of progress. I did brace the rear fenders a little, remove the rear sill and remove one of the roll bar supports.

IMG_4533.webp


IMG_4536.webp


IMG_4534.webp
 
Working on the driver's side wheel well. Cut out the rusty spots. The paint looks funny cause I sprayed the white over wet primer. It's going to get sanded back down.

Removed the roll bar supports. I am going to go with metal tech's frame tie in for the cage. Can I just skip putting the supports back? Doesn't seem like they are needed. I don't think the earlier 40s had them (pre roll bar years).

IMG_4555.webp


IMG_4599.webp


IMG_4600.webp


IMG_4534.webp


IMG_4536.webp
 
Last edited:
Slow progress, got 2 hrs in the garage on Sunday. A little more progress on the inner fender. Not going to get anything done this weekend as I have a business trip to Japan (first time). I will be in Tokyo, Koriyama, and then Osaka.

IMG_4621.webp


IMG_4622.webp
 
Tried out my $400 Amazon plasma cutter. It goes through 16 gauge like butter. My cuts were freehand and I was wearing my welding helmet so couldn't see well but damn it's fast. Any suggestions for eye protection when cutting? Tacked in a couple more patch pieces.

IMG_4685.webp
 
Tried out my $400 Amazon plasma cutter. It goes through 16 gauge like butter. My cuts were freehand and I was wearing my welding helmet so couldn't see well but damn it's fast. Any suggestions for eye protection when cutting? Tacked in a couple more patch pieces.

Try this. They say it even works under water
Screenshot_20170221-155921.webp
 
Another trick is to drill holes and weld through the hole. Often with practice you end up with the weld being about flat when done. Or, what I did often when I was restoring my Bronco, get the body part secured in place with self tapping sheet metal screws, then remove a screw and weld through the hole. Looks like a spot weld. And the metal is cooling while you are removing the next screw. You don't want to build up too much heat for fear of warping the metal. Then once you have the part secured in place, use a tube of body sealant and run a bead to seal all the gaps. You can buy a caulking gun size tube of body sealer. If you do the sheet metal screw method, you will have some weld build up on the back side, but you don't see that side. Drilling a hole in one body part and welding through to the other part means no mound on the back side.

Use a weld through primer if overlapping metal so your welds work good.
Called rosette weld's, strong and make a great looking fab process.
 
For eye protection I have eyelids :meh:

I close my eyes when welding ... my welds btw suck :hmm:

Time to do shopping or siteseeing when in Japan? Or was it all business

Making headway on the cruiser !!!

Looking good

A few hours of site seeing near Tokyo station. The rest was all work. Several nice business dinners.
 
You cut all that with plasma cutter? Those edges look super clean!!!

I used Real Steel corner channels and I noticed they were narrower than stock. I can see where you cut the fender and I think Real Steel may be too narrow.

I dont know it CCOT channels are any wider.

I cut it with a grinding wheel. I am going to put a piece of 1/8" x 4" plate in there to replace the part I cut out. I have a stock tailgate so I will just run square corners and not round it like the factory and your piece does. I left about 1/8" on the edge. I bought pacol rear quarters. After I got them I decided to use them for patching instead of full replacement. The inner fenders I will sell. I made a piece for the well lip that I will weld on. There holes are for welding the outer piece on. I will cut patches from the fender. I need to rework the wheel well since my rear springs are flipped.

IMG_4788.webp


IMG_4789.webp


IMG_4791.webp
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom