Builds Body work - fixing my '79 floors and other stuff (4 Viewers)

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Thanks, I appreciate the compliment. I recently replaced the rear quarter panel on my BJ74. It's in my signature line.
For normal fab work I use .030 wire, but on advice of a couple of welders I went down to .023 wire. Some test spots were
needed, ( like 40-50! ) and I kept listening for the perfect buzz you hear when its' right.
I also in the past rebuild an entire FJ40 body. It was thicker metal, and I used the .030 wire but my spot welds were all
poor and in need of redoing.

I went down to .023, it was much better. Thanks for the tip. Still have 9# of the .030 to use up though.
 
Post grinding

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Got a few hours in the garage yesterday. Cut out the rusted areas and used those pieces as templates for the patches that I cut from the replacement floor pan. Got them welded in and started grinding. Didn't get to finish as my wife had plans for me. Only got a pic when I was done.

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Uhhhh, looks like a rear sill is in order...:hmm::hmm::hmm:

Luckily I have one of those, from Awl_TEQ. Also have full rear quarters with inner fenders and the floor. Not sure yet how much I will completely replace and how much will get patched. The whole sill will get replaced for sure. Maybe I will get some more pictures tomorrow and get some feedback.
 
I think you need to plan a trip to Arkansas to help me with my floors. They look about the same as what you started with. I've been putting it off for over a year now...

I cut the driver's side out about 3 years ago. But then stuff happens. Finally decided I just needed to get it done. I work on it on the weekends while my son is napping. How warm is Arkansas this time of year? -1 here in Idaho this morning...
 
I cut the driver's side out about 3 years ago. But then stuff happens. Finally decided I just needed to get it done. I work on it on the weekends while my son is napping. How warm is Arkansas this time of year? -1 here in Idaho this morning...

Yeah my driver side floor is really just the heat shield for the exhaust and a couple of rubber floor mats.

It's 10 this morning. Perfect weather to chop some wood for the stove and enjoy the fire.
 
Here's some pics of the rear. I am thinking I will completely replace the floor and sill. I will pull the fender support brackets and replace any rusted sections around these. The rear corners will be patched. Any sections where two pieces are sandwiched together that show any signs of rust will be replaced. A lot of the inner fender and outer fender will stay intact. I may keep the part of the floor around the rear heater and had tank access panel.

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Oh man, did he just cut out the rusty panel and horns and then slap some diamond plate over it? Yikes.

Love the thread btw, keep up the good work. Motivational!

Really appreciate the positive feedback. He used steel sheet metal. Lots of mats inside to cover it all up. I drove it a couple times in Utah winters (salt on the roads) which didn't help anything. Notice the ends of the rear sill were hacked off as well.

Here is a pic of the panels that were bolted on the corners

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Looking great! You're going through the same stuff I go through on just about every restoration that comes through our door.

You'll want to measure and brace up that back end before you remove any more metal. There's not much structure back there currently, and you cut out any of the rust that's holding it together, and stuff will move. Welding on the back end especially, will cause big shifts that affect alignment of back doors, side panels, hard top, you name it. (ask me how I know... Hahaha!)

- Josh
 
Looking great! You're going through the same stuff I go through on just about every restoration that comes through our door.

You'll want to measure and brace up that back end before you remove any more metal. There's not much structure back there currently, and you cut out any of the rust that's holding it together, and stuff will move. Welding on the back end especially, will cause big shifts that affect alignment of back doors, side panels, hard top, you name it. (ask me how I know... Hahaha!)

- Josh

Great advice, thank you. I was giving this some thought but wasn't sure if I needed to do it or not. I have a question about your business. Do you sell the rubber body plugs (the ones that are ~5/8" and the ones that are ~1-1/4") as well as the hard plastic caps over the body mounts?
 
Great advice, thank you. I was giving this some thought but wasn't sure if I needed to do it or not. I have a question about your business. Do you sell the rubber body plugs (the ones that are ~5/8" and the ones that are ~1-1/4") as well as the hard plastic caps over the body mounts?

Life will be much easier if you brace it. Even then, it still might move, but on a much smaller, more manageable scale.

I wish we could find those body plugs. I keep my eye peeled everywhere I go, every site I visit, for some plugs that will fit those. They're burned into my subconscious, hahaha! No luck yet. They're a bit of a funky size. I'd like to find a ready-made, available product, since it's so expensive to tool up new manufacturing.

- Josh
 
Life will be much easier if you brace it. Even then, it still might move, but on a much smaller, more manageable scale.

I wish we could find those body plugs. I keep my eye peeled everywhere I go, every site I visit, for some plugs that will fit those. They're burned into my subconscious, hahaha! No luck yet. They're a bit of a funky size. I'd like to find a ready-made, available product, since it's so expensive to tool up new manufacturing.

- Josh

Crap! I was pretty careless with the ones I had because I thought I could just get new ones.
 

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