Blower Motor Resistor

[FF LC FREAK]

thanks Clamba but what resistance?

I know the canadian 40's were 24v, but I still don't know which resistor to get?

Sorry, I'm a little late chiming in, but here is what I came up with when I asked the question in the diesel section. Basically, a 4 ohm 50 watt resistor for the 24 volt system.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/672141-24v-heater-blower-resistor.html

 

[Hugh Heifer]

Thanks!
>This is the link for that part at one possible vendor.<

Allied Electronics is where I found it and they are a bit more pricey because Allied feels they can charge a $5 "handling" fee which sounds like BS to me but they have them in stock.

 

[KY Longhunter]

Hugh --- I just checked on the Mouser model and it shows available, unless Im looking at the wrong model. Is this correct?

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...=sGAEpiMZZMtbXrIkmrvidB8BLv6/qh8/4Q1CBgUlSN4=

 

[Hugh Heifer]

I ended up with two different ones in the same ohm range.
All I get is low speed though. Pretty sure it is my switch. Low works on low (pulled all the way out right?) Nothing on high - which is one click out if I recall from the truck I sold.

Heifer-net

 

[shmukster]

Resistor

The original resistor on my 73 FJ55 and also the spare I have from another 73 FJ55 is labeled 1.8 ohms and that's what it reads with a meter. Gary S

 

[Stumpalama]

Check the high speed connection at your blower motor. Mine was intermittent due to a bad connection. I have a 5ohm resistor and am thinking of going with a little lower ohm resistor to get a little more low end speed.

Ideally, I'd like to modify a rheostat switch to mimic the the stock switch and get infinitely adjustable fan speeds.

 

[bj40green]

Ideally, I'd like to modify a rheostat switch to mimic the the stock switch and get infinitely adjustable fan speeds.

Let us know when you find a rheostat with the right wattage, because it's gonna be a BIG one.

Rudi

 

[AdamKFarmer]

I ended up with two different ones in the same ohm range.
All I get is low speed though. Pretty sure it is my switch. Low works on low (pulled all the way out right?) Nothing on high - which is one click out if I recall from the truck I sold.

Heifer-net

Let us know when you find a rheostat with the right wattage, because it's gonna be a BIG one.

Rudi

Backwards. Low is one click, high is all the way out.

 

[Stumpalama]

Yeah, that's what I've noticed... How about using the FJ60 resistor and connecting it to a rotary switch modified to accept the stock knob (or modify the stock knob to fit a radial switch)?

 

[FF LC FREAK]

Backwards. Low is one click, high is all the way out.

Not on a 72. I'm not sure when the change was, but earlier switches/wiring have the high speed on the first click and low speed on the second click out.

 

[bj40green]

Yeah, that's what I've noticed... How about using the FJ60 resistor and connecting it to a rotary switch modified to accept the stock knob (or modify the stock knob to fit a radial switch)?

What you can do is a 4 position rotary switch with 2 resistors
Off, Low (resistor .. ohm, Medium (resistor .. ohm) and High (no resistor)
You have to figure out the resistor values.

Rudi

 

[Hugh Heifer]

Backwards. Low is one click, high is all the way out.

That would tell me my resistor is too resistant. That would mean those listed in this thread would not work
I tested the motor, it is healthy.

Heifer-net

 

[Hugh Heifer]

Not on a 72. I'm not sure when the change was, but earlier switches/wiring have the high speed on the first click and low speed on the second click out.

Thanks for that. I tbought so. Should have kept reading. I put a light on it and got juice on low (obviously) none on high. Gotta trouble shoot the switch and the wire - my guess is the 40 year old switch.

Heifer-net

 

[DSRTRDR]

Backwards. Low is one click, high is all the way out.

this is how the heater pulls on my '72 work - but then, I have a VW blower motor on it, so things might have gotten wired more rationally by some PO

 

[brian]

Has your heater blower lost the "low" fan speed setting?

If so, you probably need to replace your blower motor resistor. Here is what I used to replace mine. It is a Vishay/Dale Wirewound Power Resistor part# HL-50-06Z 1 OHM 5% 50W

You can purchase it here for $3.38. They also sell mounting brackets or you can make your own. http://www.mouser.com/catalog/626/500.pdf#search='dale hl5006z'

Mouser part# 71-HL50-06z-Value 1.0 - 1.0k

Note, this part is longer than the stock resistor and you will need to mount it to the top of the blower motor. My install is not the most elegant as you can see from the picture below but it does work.

just received mine from mouser....like 13 bucks shipped. i'll get to playing with it tomorrow. looks like a fairly easy ordeal to get it going.

 

[dylanray]

Switch is jammed up on my cruiser. I want to test the blower motor now that the heater is all hooked up. I threw 12vdc across resistor but still no go. Should I try it straight to the blower motor wires?

 

[Hugh Heifer]

Switch is jammed up on my cruiser. I want to test the blower motor now that the heater is all hooked up. I threw 12vdc across resistor but still no go. Should I try it straight to the blower motor wires?

You can

Heifer-net

 

[Jerry D.]

Why not use a coil ballast resistor, normally 200 watts and up and you can get them in .75 ohm up to 2 ohm. Any auto parts store has them for about $8 on up, also on Ebay.

My 2 cents, although I never tried one...


Jerry D.

 

[mobiltoy]

Many years before I knew about this resistor when mine burned out i patched into the switches low side and ran it through another switch. Nets me high speed in front then pull the other switch and the rear fan kicks on high. Most of the time here in Missouri I run both anyway. Just another alternative

 

[Brewsterfire]

Here is how I fixed mine thanks to coolerman.

http://www.galco.com/buy/Ohmite/L50J1R0

You have to lengthen the mount as the resistor is longer, but is easy to do.

Good luck


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