2fpower
SILVER Star
Take the tank to a radiator shop and have them dip and clean it.
Just had mine done. $150 and clean as can be.
Just had mine done. $150 and clean as can be.
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- #42
My local radiator shops wanted quite a bit more ($450) and what they offered was pretty in-depth. Cut the tank in half, remove all rust, coat the inside, weld back together and coat the outside. I needed to drop the tank in any scenario and I thought I'd see how bad it was before making a further decision on how to clean out the tank. Drained out the tank and proceeded to drop it down. Lots of crud on top of this.
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- #43
Pulled out the steam cleaner and started washing away all the crud on the outside and inside of the tank. Sprayed out everything I could inside, constantly moving the tank around so I could get every angle possible in the tank. You can see some of the rust pouring out of the top hole. I did this for about 30 minutes until everything coming out was clear. Looked inside the tank after draining everything out, looks good!
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- #44
Used a KBS Rust Seal Sampler kit from Amazon, which was just enough to coat the tank. Three step process, easy to do. Top side on Saturday and bottom side on Sunday. Planning on putting the tank back in the truck late this week
Nice work. I need to do this to my tank. It’s pretty beat.
The tank looks great! If you’re still thinking about doing the inside, I would highly recommend the POR15 tank seal kit. I used one on the leaky, rusty fuel tank in my G Wagen and was very pleased with the results.
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- #47
This happened over the weekend...
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- #48
So I've wanted to increase the driving range of this truck to where I should not need to take fuel cans on multi-day, or really long day trips. Picked up a Long Range America tank from Cruiser Outfitters after talking to Ward at Long Range America. It took a couple months to arrive; I'm impressed with the quality of the tank. Started the process by putting in the brass fittings before mounting. Used Loctite 565, which is rated for fuel applications.
Transmission jack made this pretty easy. My spare tire was already relocated into the bed by the previous owner, who installed a newer model bed which had the spare tire mount already there.
As you can see, I have what is probably the heaviest version of the OME leaf springs in the rear. Too heavy. Hoping this tank will also improve the ride a little. Really like the idea of having additional weight in the back for winter/snow driving as well.
Transmission jack made this pretty easy. My spare tire was already relocated into the bed by the previous owner, who installed a newer model bed which had the spare tire mount already there.
As you can see, I have what is probably the heaviest version of the OME leaf springs in the rear. Too heavy. Hoping this tank will also improve the ride a little. Really like the idea of having additional weight in the back for winter/snow driving as well.
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- #49
The tank uses 3 u-bolts in the front to install along the crossbar, and four bolts in the back that go into the angled frame section between the sides and rear parts of the frame. Had to drill two holes to accommodate this (two others were already in the frame). Long Range America (LRA) includes all the hardware, including some square plates to put on the bolt where it drops into the frame. Knowing I would not easily be able to get a wrench up there to hold the bolt in place while tightening the nyloc nuts, the bolts were then tackwelded to the plate and painted. This made it easy, drop in the bolt with its plate and tighten the nut below, no wrench required on the top of the bolt since the square part is right against the frame.
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- #50
You can see in the first picture below how the front of the tank is supported, ubolts on the crossbar (not tightened in this picture).
The next part I did not love so much. Since the PO put on a newer bed, which does not fit like the old bed (new one is longer), there was a support rail tac welded to the underside of the bed, running the width of the bed (there are several of them). This one on particular is right at the same section where the top of the tank hits, so I needed to cut out a section of that support rail to accommodate the tank. Didn't love the idea, but it was a small section and I don't haul heavy stuff in the bed anyway. Even with the small section removed, the bed seemed fine jumping up and down on the section. You can somewhat see the section I cut out to the right of the picture.
This weekend I'll tackle getting the fuel inlet from the LRA tank to line up with the factory fuel filling area of the bed.
The next part I did not love so much. Since the PO put on a newer bed, which does not fit like the old bed (new one is longer), there was a support rail tac welded to the underside of the bed, running the width of the bed (there are several of them). This one on particular is right at the same section where the top of the tank hits, so I needed to cut out a section of that support rail to accommodate the tank. Didn't love the idea, but it was a small section and I don't haul heavy stuff in the bed anyway. Even with the small section removed, the bed seemed fine jumping up and down on the section. You can somewhat see the section I cut out to the right of the picture.
This weekend I'll tackle getting the fuel inlet from the LRA tank to line up with the factory fuel filling area of the bed.
2fpower
SILVER Star
That is really awesome....
Perhaps I'm missing the obvious but why did you decide against reinstalling the OEM rear tank?
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- #53
There was no OEM rear tank. This BJ75 only came with the factory tank that is in the middle, somewhat under the cab. I did reinstall that tank. I also added the rear aux tank for additional range, and weight (helpful in the winter). This tank took a couple months to arrive after ordering, it just happen to come at the same time I was working on the OEM tank. This made all the fuel line work convenient.
Now running with two tanks. Since the bed was changed to a newer model by a PO, I do have the benefit of being able to use the fuel fill area that the new bed has, which the old BJ75 bed would not have had.
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- #54
Installed the fuel transfer pump, ran the fuel and vent lines from the LRA tank and completed about half of the wiring today. I didn't want to drill into the frame to install the fuel transfer pump, so I used a piece of metal to install the pump bracket to and bolted the metal to one of the under bed supports on the pickup bed. The metal should also prevent anything from being flung up onto the pump (at least from the front).
Next I ran the two vent lines, found it much easier if I dipped the vent in some hot water, dried it off/blew it out to remove the water and pushed it over the various barb connectors. The warm hose was much more pliable. Vent line is clear, and using a three-way connection to tap into the vent line from the original tank.
Next I ran the two vent lines, found it much easier if I dipped the vent in some hot water, dried it off/blew it out to remove the water and pushed it over the various barb connectors. The warm hose was much more pliable. Vent line is clear, and using a three-way connection to tap into the vent line from the original tank.
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- #55
Since the OEM tank was so dirty and the injector pump had to be replaced because of the amount of gunk/rust in it, I thought it would be a good idea to change the fuel filter again. I previously put a new OEM filter on the truck back in June when I purchased the truck, the first filter was extremely dirty and full of rusty slop (why the injector pump failed, lack of PO keeping up with something as simple as changing a filter). While it's only been 4 months and probably 200 miles on the truck since the last filter, I changed it again. As you can see in this one, a good amount of gunk in this filter. Dumped the fuel into a bucket, it was rusty brown. Cleaned up the plastic sensor and installed a new filter.
With the OEM gas tank cleaned out, new injector pump and a new filter, hopefully all the crud is out of the system. I'm wondering if I need to have the injector nozzles cleaned or rebuilt. What would indicate that these are not performing well?
Picture of filter -
With the OEM gas tank cleaned out, new injector pump and a new filter, hopefully all the crud is out of the system. I'm wondering if I need to have the injector nozzles cleaned or rebuilt. What would indicate that these are not performing well?
Picture of filter -
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- #56
Two items this weekend, finishing up the electrical on the LRA tank and pulled the injectors to have them cleaned/rebuilt if necessary.
Needed to find a spot fo the LRA fuel pump transfer switch/fuel gauge. It's the size of a cigarette lighter and could go into that spot, but I have the OEM cigarette lighter and want to keep that there (who knows, I may need to start a fire someday, etc). I opted for the blank pop out panel to the left of the dash cluster. Drilled out the hole, installed the switch.
Needed to find a spot fo the LRA fuel pump transfer switch/fuel gauge. It's the size of a cigarette lighter and could go into that spot, but I have the OEM cigarette lighter and want to keep that there (who knows, I may need to start a fire someday, etc). I opted for the blank pop out panel to the left of the dash cluster. Drilled out the hole, installed the switch.
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- #57
Next items was pulling the injectors. Pretty easy following the 3B FSM I have. Removed fuel lines (17MM wrench), removed air intake and disconnected throttle cable to give a little more room. Next I removed the nozzle leakage pipe (19MM), and finally removed the injectors (27mm deep well).
Sending injectors to Diesel Fuel Injection Service in Portland, another thread on Mud indicated good service/pricing. I spoke to the owner a few weeks ago; seemed to be a great shop to work with.
Sending injectors to Diesel Fuel Injection Service in Portland, another thread on Mud indicated good service/pricing. I spoke to the owner a few weeks ago; seemed to be a great shop to work with.
FJBen
SILVER Star
I used Diesel Fuel Injection Service out of Portland as well. Great guys, very knowledgeable and did great work.
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- #59
Injectors arrived back from Diesel Fuel Injection Service today; they look amazing. They replaced the worn out parts with new Denso parts, tested and sent priority mail back to me. They also included a bunch of bonus stuff in the package, notebooks, keychains, calendar and a couple pens that have a nice rubber tip when unclicked so they work on a tablet as well.
Installed, turned engine over to get rid of air and check for leaks, runs great. Starts much easier and seems to have a bit more power.
Installed, turned engine over to get rid of air and check for leaks, runs great. Starts much easier and seems to have a bit more power.
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- #60
Uploading some pictures of the injector installation. Ordered new injector "seats", the first one you can see has been placed in the bottom of the injector hole, it's kind of like a crush washer. The larger ones in the next picture go around the injector port, I dropped those in next as you can see in the third picture. Pipe Assembly nozzle (fourth picture) I originally had was bent and almost kinked at one part so a new one was acquired through partsouq and installed as well.
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