Biscuit is (still) Keeping The FJ40 - Customization/Improvement Thread (2 Viewers)

[Biscuit]

Keeping post #1 updated with status

Latest era: skip to post 139
Previous era ca. 2013: Recently I went through an existential crisis over my FJ40 (see Chat thread here), and I have decided that I can modify my 40 to do what I want it to do.


Below is the list of projects that I will be tackling. I know it won't be cheap, but compared to buying a new to me replacement truck that would have these things I think I'll come out ahead. Plus, then all the mods will be done the way I want them done.

Mechanical

• New exhaust Done! Mark's Off Road Tri-Y header w/ new to me aluminized exhaust.
• Transmission Swap Done! H42 installed with 3speed t-case
• Front Disc Brakes. FJ60 discs install at Classic Cruisers
• Clutch replacement

Electrical

• amauer's Gauge Cluster Kit (maybe, still have it)
• Higher Output Alternator
• Full Rewire

Creature Comfort

• Better Front Seats - Procar Rally installed in the driver seat, thinking about swapping it for something different.
• Carpet & Insulation

Cargo/Creature Hauling

• Custom Rear Drawer/Platform System
• Something to Carry Fuel/Water Cans
• Four Plus Tire Carrier

 

[bikersmurf]

Newer (77+) pop out side windows can be added to your older top.

 

[Biscuit]

Transmission Swap Part I

I have been thinking about the transmission swap and if I want to keep the H42/3-spd T-Case combo I picked up in the spring or go with something else. Here's the though process:

J30 3-speed/3-speed T-Case
Currently in the truck. Leaking. Would need to be pulled to reseal. Front output bearing is shot.

1st gear low for this setup 6.377:1
RPM at 65mph (32" effective diameter) = 2805rpm


H42/3-speed T-Case
I already own it, so this would be the logical option. The 3-speed transfer case gives me the lower low range of the one piece cases. My 10/73 production may have come with the 3-speed but the frame cross member appears to be in the location for the 4-speed.

This should allow me to pick up some 4-speed drive shafts and make the whole thing a bolt in swap.

1st gear low for this setup 8.222:1
RPM at 65mph (32" effective diameter) = 2805rpm


H41/One piece T-Case
I don't plan on doing much crawling in my truck, so I don't need the extra low 1st gear.

1st gear low for this setup 11.391:1 (3-spd case)
1st gear low for this setup 9.810:1 (4-spd case)
RPM at 65mph (32" effective diameter) = 2805rpm


H42/split case
I hear split cases are stronger, so I though about it for a bit. But the split case will require moving the frame cross member and sorting out the e-brake (new rear axle or kit to put it on the split case.

1st gear low for this setup 7.081:1
RPM at 65mph (32" effective diameter) = 2805rpm


H55F/split case
This set up would cost about good fraction of what my truck is currently worth to put in. Same e-brake and cross member issues due to the split case. The FJ40 top plate is unobtainium of the highest order. Also the rear drive shaft would be very short. Not worth it for 15.5% over drive

1st gear low for this setup 9.487:1
RPM at 65mph (32" effective diameter) = 2371rpm


Aftermarket Overdrives
The Fairey overdrive for the one-piece and split cases are rare, and parts are harder to find than the FJ40 top plate for the H55F. Have some known weaknesses.

RPM at 65mph (32" effective diameter) = 2048rpm



I think due to the fact I already have most of the bits for the H42/3-speed T-Case swap I'm going to go that route. If I still want a further reduction in RPMs, I could always go with the 3.73 diffs. With the 3-speed t-case in low range I will still have a slightly lower first than with a 4-speed t-case and 4.11 diffs. Effective overdrive would be 9.3%. But that is a thought process for a different day.

 

[DSRTRDR]

why wouldn't you make the brake booster your priority

 

[JohnnyC]

Speaking about braking... I don't see 4 wheel disc ... PS and 4 wheel disc were the best mods I made for a DD

Do you already have them?

 

[DSRTRDR]

ditto on the disk brakes

 

[Biscuit]

why wouldn't you make the brake booster your priority

Figuring out where the whistle is coming from is a priority. I'm not 100% convinced it's the booster, but somewhere in that vacuum circuit.

Brakes are functioning as expected (firmness, responsiveness).

Speaking about braking... I don't see 4 wheel disc ... PS and 4 wheel disc were the best mods I made for a DD

Do you already have them?

I'm drums all around at the moment. The drums were serviced with new wheel cylinders as needed 3 years ago, so disks would be a low priority item at the moment.

 

[JohnnyC]

from another thread...

Had 4 wheel drums...every 3-4 months had to re-adjust...and than one time i went 5 months...a gang of blue-hairs raced out of a side road my slaming on the brakes wasn't doing too much..and when i swerved to avoid collision 2 wheels must have left the ground. I thank God I didn't roll or better yet plow thru them...thats when i went to 4 wheel disc (thanks again stainless40/45 )

I still dont know what hurt more ....my heart pounding, my white kuckles or the vinyl seat that sucked up my due to pucker factor 10.

if its a DD...it makes sence to do it


When driving a lot (I used to drive 25,000 miles a year) the number one maintenance sucker was the drum brakes... More time was wasted adjusting the crappy nonself adjusting brakes than anything else... When racking up the miles it's not just adjusting that was bothersome ... It was the frequency... Every three months without fail it would start to need to adjust them... Or... The multi pump stop would be mandatory ... And dangerous at times during a 'panic stop'

Disc are safer and suck less time... The next round of big ticket ideas try to include the 4 wheel discs... You'll be glad you did

 

[65swb45]

H42 and don't look back.

Get er done!

When's that month long work party of yours scheduled to start?

 

[Biscuit]

When's that month long work party of yours scheduled to start?

Right now the schedule is:

This weekend (11/16-11/17): Separate the H42 and t-case to check for wear on the transmission output shaft and allow a new gasket to be put in. Clean up the cases. Start on any necessary seal replacement.

Next weekend (11/23-11/24): Pull e-brake off the current t-case, clean up, new pads. Complete appropriate seal replacements. Reassemble the transmission and t-case as a single unit.

Thanksgiving Weekend: No work, out of town for Thanksgiving

12/7-12/8: Drop the 3-speed. Install the H42.

 

[Biscuit]

Today I started separating the H42 from the one piece t-case. By prying I was able to separate the cases about 1.5". Only took four hours.

I'm going to need to rig up a puller tomorrow to finish separating the cases.

 

[65swb45]

Mike

I will be in the shop for a few minutes tomorrow sometime around 11am. Leave a message there for me if you want to drop by for help with that.

 

[Biscuit]

Separated the cases

Made a homemade puller this morning and that did the trick. Yes I was too lazy to cut down the angle to a reasonable length.



I was able finally loosen the t-case drain plug. It required a nice constant gentle force on a 1/2 drive socket with a hi-lift handle as a handle extension. The drain plug will be replaced with one that takes a hex key.

While I have the t-case finishing draining (yep it still had gear oil in it and a fair amount of rebuilders grease), I took a look at the transmission output shaft splines. There is noticeable wear.

 

[Biscuit]

I'm going to start cleaning the cases tomorrow. They aren't too bad so some simple green and elbow grease should do the trick.

The transmission, bell housing, and speedometer gear housing will need to be painted. I'm thinking the bellhousing will need to be painted with a high temperature paint due to the proximity to the exhaust. Thankfully I have an old clothesline post at my place that can be used as a paint stand.

I'm debating the double seal mod to keep oil from leaking into the e-break. Once I remove the speedometer gear housing I'll be able to check for wear.

 

[65swb45]

I'm going to start cleaning the cases tomorrow. They aren't too bad so some simple green and elbow grease should do the trick.

The transmission, bell housing, and speedometer gear housing will need to be painted. I'm thinking the bellhousing will need to be painted with a high temperature paint due to the proximity to the exhaust. Thankfully I have an old clothesline post at my place that can be used as a paint stand.

I'm debating the double seal mod to keep oil from leaking into the e-break. Once I remove the speedometer gear housing I'll be able to check for wear.

When you come by, you can decide if you want to be number five for this month!

 

[Biscuit]

Removed the speedometer gear housing from the back of the t-case last night.

The speedometer gear is pretty worn down. I'll will likely swap it with the one that is currently installed behind the t-case in the truck, though if that ends up damaged I will replace it.


The t-case clean up is progressing, I'm giving the Simple Green time to soak into the gunk on the case today. Should make brushing it off easier after it's had some time.

 

[YOYOKID]

Your farther than me right now... I need to do the same but I need to get a car out of my driveway first.. We might get that done this weekend and start on mine...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Biscuit]

Your farther than me right now... I need to do the same but I need to get a car out of my driveway first.. We might get that done this weekend and start on mine...

Let me know if you want to borrow the t-case puller.

 

[YOYOKID]

I have mine split I will see you tomorrow


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Biscuit]

Yesterday I opened up the H42. Seeing some rust on the gears, I methodically scraped all of the surface corrosion of the gears on the input shaft. The H42 is at Mark's Off Road getting a new tail shaft put in.

Found out the t-case that came with the H42 was in fact a 4-speed t-case. The corrosion on the input gear is beyond what I want to run. Since I'm going to need to buy a new input gear, I'll get one to use the 3-speed t-case that is currently on my truck.

Today I finally put the tie rod end on the drag link. Only 5 years I think since I purchase the set. Found the TRE when unpacking a box from the move this week.



I painted the 4 speed bell-housing gloss black after a once over with a wire brush. Nothing fancy but looks better.