What foam? Radiator was replaced in shop by PO but I didn't see any foam on it..
Best replacement radiator for the money today... (9 Viewers)
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What foam? Radiator was replaced in shop by PO but I didn't see any foam on it..
They're the foam strips that go around the edges and squish in between the radiator and the radiator support.
can confirm that my Denso replacement did NOT come with new foam.
Does anybody have picture of where it is?
OEM replacement does include the foam strips and a radiator cap. Super simple, drop in replacement. Ordered from Camelback.
hoser
SILVER Star
The OE radiator cap is a "mini" cap.... and is a maintenance item.
in the event you completely destroy the foam, is there a specific replacement or you can get a "windows sealer" from home depot?
I haven't replace my radiator yet, but I have the impression the foam won't come out easily.
I haven't replace my radiator yet, but I have the impression the foam won't come out easily.
AC-Safe 3 in. x 1.5 in. x 40 in. Foam Weather Seal for Window AC Units AC-404/6 - The Home Depot
Keep out bugs and reduces noise transfer in your home with the selection of this AC-Safe Foam Weather Seal for Window AC Units. Easy to cut to fit to size.
www.homedepot.com
Universal Seal 1 in. x 1 in. x 12 ft. Impregnated Expanding Open-Cell Foam Sealant Tape HD-ASR-25-25-04 - The Home Depot
Add beauty to your dwelling by choosing this Unbranded Universal Seal Impregnated Expanding OpenCell Foam Sealant Tape.
www.homedepot.com
Foam goes along the top and vertically on both sides. You can buy some peel and stick, high density, closed cell foam (like the kind used to seal around window AC units) and stick it on the new radiator a day or two before the install. The main purpose is to keep air from escaping between the shroud and radiator.
The foam is a bear to get off without having it crumble in your hands or tearing to shreds on removal. The dark grey/black weather sealing foam is probably good enough.in the event you completely destroy the foam, is there a specific replacement or you can get a "windows sealer" from home depot?
I haven't replace my radiator yet, but I have the impression the foam won't come out easily.
AC-Safe 3 in. x 1.5 in. x 40 in. Foam Weather Seal for Window AC Units AC-404/6 - The Home Depot
Keep out bugs and reduces noise transfer in your home with the selection of this AC-Safe Foam Weather Seal for Window AC Units. Easy to cut to fit to size.www.homedepot.com
Universal Seal 1 in. x 1 in. x 12 ft. Impregnated Expanding Open-Cell Foam Sealant Tape HD-ASR-25-25-04 - The Home Depot
Add beauty to your dwelling by choosing this Unbranded Universal Seal Impregnated Expanding OpenCell Foam Sealant Tape.www.homedepot.com
2001LC
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #252
I take old radiator foam and swap to new. By remove the side supports which have foam, and bolt onto new radiator. Take a razor and cut top foam from old. Trick is to cut again the plastic radiator with razor, under double sided backing tape of foam.
I just toss the new side bracket in trash and keep my old one with foam.
I set glue and place weight on foam ASAP. To allow some drying time. While I work on thermostat, hoses, etc. while glue set up.
I've be use FIPG 102, 103, 1282B and now have some 3m adhesive. All seem to work fine.
If you really want all (4) pieces) of the foam, you can buy the OEM piece that goes on #1 skid plate.
Bottom foam also known as rust promoter. Needs replacing every 3 to 5 years, as cell break down and absorb/hold water.
I just toss the new side bracket in trash and keep my old one with foam.
I set glue and place weight on foam ASAP. To allow some drying time. While I work on thermostat, hoses, etc. while glue set up.
I've be use FIPG 102, 103, 1282B and now have some 3m adhesive. All seem to work fine.
If you really want all (4) pieces) of the foam, you can buy the OEM piece that goes on #1 skid plate.
Bottom foam also known as rust promoter. Needs replacing every 3 to 5 years, as cell break down and absorb/hold water.
In case your radiator foam is missing or comes apart when you attempt to transfer it, I've used the weather stripping by Frost King found at Lowes, HD or Amazon- It works well on the radiator surrounds and 2yrs in is unaffected by the heat or moisture.
www.frostking.com
Rubber Foam Weatherseal | Frost King® Weatherization Products
Frost King® Rubber Foam Weatherseal is a weatherstrip, or as a gasket or to cushion and stabilize major appliances. Plus, on cars, trucks and boats...
So hold up hold hold up. No one seems to be answering the question. Are we talking about two DIFFERENT CSF radiators? Because I am seeing the #G1000130859CSF only on advance auto and for $270, whereas Rockauto doesnt list that part number but instead list CSF 3006 and its $130, which is a big price difference. And although there is some weird disclaimer on the Rockauto listing it still fits OE radiator cap?
Are these the same radiator with two different part numbers?
Are these the same radiator with two different part numbers?
My radiator is also leaking at the top passenger side where the plastic meets the aluminum. I think it is because at one point when I was re-installing my fan shroud I used a screw that was too long (mixed em up) and accidentally pressed it into the plastic. Had been slowly leaking for a while, like adding fluid to reservoir every other week--now its like 1/2 cup every couple days. Was hoping to wait till TB job but spots all over the driveway are annoying. My stays crazy cold so its never bothered me much, BUT because the leak is larger now, the fan sprays it all over the serp belt/pulleys, and thermostat housing which cant be good.
So after semi-extensive reading I'm going with the CSF radiator (as soon as I find out which one is THE one), the continental elite hoses (I use their houses for my power steering and love him), OE cap, new thermostat, inlet flange, the O'Reilly screw clamps, and Zerex Asian red coolant. Also, going to put a fan shroud on, because I only have about 1/2 of the original fan shroud and its hanging on for dear life with zip ties. Heater Tees have already been done with brass ones.
However, I did see someone on the what Have You Done This Week thread put these silicon hoses on there, I like the idea of silicon but maybe its just the look I like its a total waste of money. Amazon product ASIN B01M6XT1RE. Seeing these hoses with an all aluminum radiator on this truck would be pretty cool.
Also, is there aftermarket coolant level sensor mod that anyone has done or come up with? Would be really great to have something to keep an eye on the levels in the reservoir from inside the cab.
So after semi-extensive reading I'm going with the CSF radiator (as soon as I find out which one is THE one), the continental elite hoses (I use their houses for my power steering and love him), OE cap, new thermostat, inlet flange, the O'Reilly screw clamps, and Zerex Asian red coolant. Also, going to put a fan shroud on, because I only have about 1/2 of the original fan shroud and its hanging on for dear life with zip ties. Heater Tees have already been done with brass ones.
However, I did see someone on the what Have You Done This Week thread put these silicon hoses on there, I like the idea of silicon but maybe its just the look I like its a total waste of money. Amazon product ASIN B01M6XT1RE. Seeing these hoses with an all aluminum radiator on this truck would be pretty cool.
Also, is there aftermarket coolant level sensor mod that anyone has done or come up with? Would be really great to have something to keep an eye on the levels in the reservoir from inside the cab.
I will say in addition to the engine staying very cool, my AC/Heat on this 99' work better and faster than any other car I've ever been in. Which is what has made me a little reticent to replace the radiator until the leaking was a little more pronounced.
2001LC
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #258
"staying very cool" Is not good. This "typically" means one of two things:
Either weak thermostat opening to soon.
Or
Worst, coolant level so low, sending unit which measure liquid temp, is sending bad data to dash gauge. It only takes a few quarts low and water sending unit is out of liquid. This is the achilles heel of the 4.7L. You can overheat and see temp gauge read low.
Either weak thermostat opening to soon.
Or
Worst, coolant level so low, sending unit which measure liquid temp, is sending bad data to dash gauge. It only takes a few quarts low and water sending unit is out of liquid. This is the achilles heel of the 4.7L. You can overheat and see temp gauge read low.
My definition of “very cool” is 183-188 and never higher. I check radiator in the morning, and reservoir everyday now, it’d be nice tho to have a sensor in the reservoir.
That is exactly where my temperature ran, even after an OEM radiator and thermostat. Then the fan started making a lot of noise several months after the radiator/thermostat work. The fan clutch was stuck so I replaced it with an Aisin unit and the temperature now runs steady at 194/195. My hunch is the old fan clutch was over cooling.
