Best replacement radiator for the money today... (5 Viewers)

[afa]

Replaced my factory radiator from my 01 LC for a Mishimoto Radiator. Over the past year I've noticed the operating temperatures slowly creep up. On a hot day, on the highway, I was around 195-198 F. When idling the temperature would sometimes hit 200-202 F. I figured the radiator wasn't cooling sufficiently anymore.

I'm happy to report the Mishimoto Radiator arrived with no issues (ordered directly from their website). I also replaced the radiator cap with an OEM Toyota one, OEM thermostat, and OEM thermostat gasket. The upper and lower hoses are also OEM Toyota and were replaced about a year ago (didn't replace those). I used the factory clamps for the upper and lower hoses and so far no leaks (after 1 week).

I used Pentofrost Red Coolant after flushing out the old coolant (which I believe was Toyota red).

My temperatures now are around 183-186 F. Overall I'm happy with the results.

Question: How important are the foam liners that come with the original Toyota radiator? The Mishimoto radiator didn't come with those foam liners so I installed it without them.

 

[flintknapper]

Question: How important are the foam liners that come with the original Toyota radiator? The Mishimoto radiator didn't come with those foam liners so I installed it without them.

The foam strips help ensure that as much air as is possible flows 'through' the radiator and not around it. Since your current temps are excellent, it suggests you are fine without them (even if not getting optimal airflow).

That said, I would encourage anyone replacing their radiator to source some type of foam strips and install them at the same time they replace the radiator. Toyota considered them 'necessary', so best to follow that line of thinking.

 

[2001LC]

I always swap the foam from old radiator side. I also cut off top foam and glue to my new radiator.

A little weight while adhesive sets up.

OEM come with foam and saves time, but at higher cost.
Additionally I R&R cap, thermostat and hoses. Tees if not done and flush once while old in first.

If radiator not cooling as well, it's dirty. The inside will be in great shape if Toyota recommended service guide-line followed.. But what I find in every inspect, once skid plate pulled. The radiator fins are clogged.

Cleaning the fins is a Toyota recommendation most never do!

 

[sharkCamo]

Denso really should package their radiators better.

Also, O'Reilly has constant tension hose clamps @$7/ea (part MP47028, 4 needed). You'll need to ask for them as they're behind the counter.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/masterpro-hose-clamps-4280/belts-hoses-16454/hoses-25069/hose-clamp-17485/b2cc3b7032ec/masterpro-1-5-16-inch-to-2-1-4-inch-hose-clamp/mp47028/4458973?q=constant+tension+hose+clamp&pos=0

 

[liveoak]

I recently got a koyo on amazon and it was direct bolt in including the correct hose sizes top and bottom. packing was pretty good too, no damage

 

[OEMGUY0720]

Gents, curious on many rows does the OEM radiator have? Considering a 3 or 4-row direct replacement aftermarket radiator (if there is one you can recommend).

@2001LC what is the best way to clean the fins on 06LC/LX?

Reason for asking is: I remember driving back from LA to LV and it was 110°F on the digital display and it was a steady climb over at i15, I was doing 72mph and noticed the temp gauge went up 1 line/marking up the usual “half” mark. I let go of the pedal and decided to cruise at 65mph and the temp went back down to its usual reading (half on the gauge). 2 hrs after we arrive home, allowed the truck to cool down and inspected the coolant, didn’t change and still on the same level both under the radiator cap and reservoir, no leaks at all anywhere.

Could this be a case of clogged radiator?

 

[2001LC]

I recently pulled the top off a factory radiator for a 00LX. I only counted TWO rows.

Pull the skip plate to start with. Some cleaning tips:

Radiator fins need cleaning! Alert Alert Alert

I've a 06LC w/192K I just bought. In reading history I found PO complained of engine temp raising when both front and rear AC on. Toyota Dealership diagnosed with clogged radiator fins. Recommended new OEM radiator, $600 for the US spec Radaitor plus coolant and labor. They should have added...

forum.ih8mud.com

1 graduation from center line on temp gauge is not much. Running at higher RPM does raise temp. So does: Dirty fins, Sticking thermostat, Engine running lean, Vacuum leaks, Clogged coolant system from improper flushing (never add tap water, not even to flush) or not topping radiator are the main reasons.

BTW: I change Radiator Cap, thermostat along with upper & lower radiator hoses when installing new radiator. I also swap out all three foam pieces (top and sides) from old to new when installing aftermarket radiator. The fourth foam piece on skid plate some say makes no difference. That piece needs replace every 4 to 6 years.

 

[medtro]

Denso really should package their radiators better.

The Denso radiator that I ordered from Rockauto is better packaged than this, had more foam too.

 

[OEMGUY0720]

I recently pulled the top off a factory radiator for a 00LX. I only counted TWO rows.

Pull the skip plate to start with. Some cleaning tips:

Radiator fins need cleaning! Alert Alert Alert

I've a 06LC w/192K I just bought. In reading history I found PO complained of engine temp raising when both front and rear AC on. Toyota Dealership diagnosed with clogged radiator fins. Recommended new OEM radiator, $600 for the US spec Radaitor plus coolant and labor. They should have added...

forum.ih8mud.com

1 graduation from center line on temp gauge is not much. Running at higher RPM does raise temp. So does: Dirty fins, Sticking thermostat, Engine running lean, Vacuum leaks, Clogged coolant system from improper flushing (never add tap water, not even to flush) or not topping radiator are the main reasons.

BTW: I change Radiator Cap, thermostat along with upper & lower radiator hoses when installing new radiator. I also swap out all three foam pieces (top and sides) from old to new when installing aftermarket radiator. The fourth foam piece on skid plate some say makes no difference. That piece needs replace every 4 to 6 years.

All duly noted. Need to get one of those pressure washers. Thanks Paul.

 

[2001LC]

Garden hose works just fine for radiator.

I got the HP washer after spending $200 on just one undercarriage and engine washing. I had the kärcher k3 "follow me" high pressure washer. Loved the small size and way it followed me. But after 3 break-downs in just 9 months, I gave up on those.

 

[2001LC]

The Denso radiator that I ordered from Rockauto is better packaged than this, had more foam too.

I grew weary of damaged radiators from shippers. I just buy local and inspect on the spot.

 

[tuner4life]

I only see a couple posts about it in here, but the CSF radiators seem to be received well.. Has anyone experienced issues with them? What about the hose diameter issue?

I see issues reported here with Denso and Spectra, but very little on the other 2 options that Rock Auto lists.

My 2003 has about 185k easy miles and about 6 months ago I did the timing belt, water pump, heater tees, and all of the hoses. Everything has been fine for a while, but I have noticed in the last week or 2 that the overflow tank will be nearly empty after about 500 miles (about 2 weeks of daily driving). I don't smell anything or see any visible leaks, (even looked at the water inlet bridges at the front/back of the intake manifold and don't see any signs) but the radiator is the last remaining part of the cooling system that I haven't touched yet and it does show some browning in spots. I'm hoping that I find a seep when I pull it out *fingers crossed*.

 

[jerryb]

I would ignore that one since it says use mini 16 psi cap. Someone else on here said his radiator had a different cap because the stock cap didn't fit on it, maybe it was that brand.

maybe if your LC is an absolute beater then yes, possibly.

rent a pressure pump/cap from local auto store, only real way to find a very small leak.. And it's very easy to poke your radiator when you do all that timing belt stuff.

 

[2001LC]

I only see a couple posts about it in here, but the CSF radiators seem to be received well.. Has anyone experienced issues with them? What about the hose diameter issue?

I see issues reported here with Denso and Spectra, but very little on the other 2 options that Rock Auto lists.

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My 2003 has about 185k easy miles and about 6 months ago I did the timing belt, water pump, heater tees, and all of the hoses. Everything has been fine for a while, but I have noticed in the last week or 2 that the overflow tank will be nearly empty after about 500 miles (about 2 weeks of daily driving). I don't smell anything or see any visible leaks, (even looked at the water inlet bridges at the front/back of the intake manifold and don't see any signs) but the radiator is the last remaining part of the cooling system that I haven't touched yet and it does show some browning in spots. I'm hoping that I find a seep when I pull it out *fingers crossed*.

Why would a radiator have a mini cap pressure? A max pressure I'd understand!

I've been using CFS (G1000130859CSF) Radiator from Advance Auto (Worldpac). The OEM Cap fits the CFS just fine. Perfect fit, no modes and no leaks every time. I've done about 6 in last two years.

I started using, after Toyota Dealership parts department said they use for customer cars unless requested to use OEM. That the Used-Car department uses yet another one, that is cheaper.

When I replace radiator I also replace with all the following OEM parts:
Cap, Upper & lower hoses, Thermostat, tees and Flush coolant. I also move over all foam that's found on factory radiator.

Make sure your reservoir hose is reaching the bottom of reservoir, they sometimes get curled up inside. Also that you've a good OEM cap on radiator.

I'd find the leak first. Look closely at front top of radiator through grill, to start with. If radiator has any leak and you are using Toyota coolant, you will see pink or red crusty coolant. That much of a leak, it will have drained to bottom outside of radiator and left a trail. If not there, keep hunting. Make sure to look at head gaskets and weep hole on bottom timing belt cover and at side of timing belt covers. If you don't find, do a coolant system pressure test overnight.

 

[tuner4life]

I gave it a quick look-over yesterday but didn't see any smoking gun. That being said, a majority of the radiator is impossible to see with the shields and everything installed. I cleaned everything pretty thoroughly and drove it to work (60 mile round trip) today. When I get home, I'm going to pull the skid plate and see if I can find anything conclusive.

The coolant is Zerex G0-5 which likely won't stain like the Toyota stuff. Maybe I'll throw a little dye in it.

If I don't see anything tonight then I'll be renting a pressure test kit.

 

[mdcoa]

If you’re going to use dye, UV coolant dye is pretty much magic for tracking down coolant leaks—have used it twice on our Volvo, and am pretty sure I’d have found neither leak without it...

 

[tuner4life]

After putting the dye in and using a black light, the leak became apparent in the front top plastic of the radiator. It was not noticeably leaking, but just barely seeping. I guess that's what happens with 185k on the original radiator.




I've ordered the Spectra Premium CU2755 radiator and Gates 22491 lower hose today. Wish me luck!

Not thrilled about the hose since I just replaced the lower with a new OEM 6 months ago, but oh well.. My own fault for not changing the radiator along with everything else.

 

[MongooseGA]

Why would a radiator have a mini cap pressure? A max pressure I'd understand!

He might be referring to me; the radiator in my truck is aftermarket and will not fit an OEM cap. It's a 'mini' cap, about 60-70% the physical size as OEM.

My radiator was replaced less than a year ago (with TB + WP) and is still pretty pristine. Having said that, I noticed it's a made in China part. Fit is fine. I also noticed the channel leading from top of radiator to overflow tank is a pin hole, and my overflow tank level hardly ever fluctuates warm or cold. I've burped the system a few times since replacing OEM thermostat a little earlier in the season. Temps are generally good, but maybe just a tick higher than I'd like. Ambient temps of 90+ yield 190-195 when driving home from work (slight elevation increase, so mostly gentle uphill, 70-80MPH). I've seen my idle temps creep up to mid 190s as well. Not alarming, but enough that I've been watching for consistencies.

I wonder if I'm just looking at my SGII way too closely, or if my radiator is actually a somewhat weak point in the system. Also bear in mind 34" tires with no regearing. Thoughts?

 

[2001LC]

I was referring to post #212, where the RC parts list states "mine PSI 16#".

Your reservoir not changing level is concerning. This indicates something not working as it should.

 

[MongooseGA]

Yeah that's what I was referring to. Jerry referenced "someone else" who had a radiator with a mini cap, it may have been me as I'd just mentioned it in another post recently.

About the expansion tank... Agreed. The hose and cap for the tank are OEM. The last time I burped the system I took the hose and cap off to check them. Was able to blow air through them with no trouble. Checked the filler neck on the rad and saw a very tiny hole, not what I'd consider adequate for fluid to move through it smoothly.

Everything else in the cooling system is new, and my temps are generally pretty good, but I do wonder if I should replace with an OE radiator.