"best" 2F

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I found a diagram showing the 2F and 3F-E's camshaft timing in a 1988 FJ62 "New Features" manual posted at the Yankee Toys site. It shows the 3F-E camshaft is advanced 5 degrees compared to a 2F cam...I don't recall it saying anything about lobe lift and/or duration changing, and the diagram shows that the overlap is the same.

My post with the diagram is here, along with Mark W's response and insight:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=977948&postcount=64
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=977948&postcount=66

From this thread (a good one!):
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=79962

Steve

Mark W said:
I don't know that the 2F cams were the same when they cam out of the factory. But if you order one from Toyota, they will give you the latest part number for any 2F. The 3FE cam is advance (or retarded... I can't remember right now) 10 degrees compared to the 2F.

I have put the 262 in a couple of 3FEs. It works GREAT!. I;ve got one in my wife's FJ62 and I'll probably be putting on in my Bro' in law's FJ80

I've use the old Clifford 270 (advertised) cam, which is pretty much (exactly?) the same as the Downey HP cam (I'm pretty sure that in the past at least, the Downey cams WERE Clifford cams). I could not tell any difference in real world mid range and top end performance of the two grinds. Possibley a little les umph off idle with the longer duration stick.

I can also get a shorter duration cam 250 (advertised) with 211 @ .050. The 262 (advertised) is either 214 or 217... I can't recall as I sit here). I've only used this one once and didn't see any reason not to go wiuth the 262 after I gave this one a try.


Mark...
Click to expand...
 
Coolerman said:
Better late than never! Here are the pics of the cam gear with the elastomer center. The person that had this complained of a knocking noise.
Click to expand...


You cut that apart, right? It didn't fail into sections, right...?
 
Chef said:
You cut that apart, right? It didn't fail into sections, right...?
Click to expand...

Not my gear! I was just passing along the pics to add to the thread. The story was that once it was cut the outr gear ring and the inner hub just fell apart. The rubber elastomer bond failed.
 
Well, after a bunch of talking with local engine shops and things, it looks as if building a 2FE would cost close to what S/C my 3FE would. If you had a 3FE, and wanted to get as close to 200hp as you could, which would you do?
 
How much can you bore a 2F and where is the best source for oversize pistons?
Butch
 
I don't go past 1.5mm OS.

That's pretty convenient, since that is also the largest stock OS piston available.

Best source for OS pistons is your engine machinist. That way, when the pistons (or other parts) don't fit right, it's his deal.
 
Very cool:cool:

Lup:)
 
So what is the maximum amount of material that can be removed from a F or 2F cylinder head without running the risk of damaging something, or needing to use a higher grade fuel?
 
Clipped from my PM response to Steve:

"Factory says that .100 is the max to remove from the 2F head. I'd bet that is conservative, but I have not pushed it.

I have taken .100 off of early heads several times to use them with flat top pistons. I have taken .050 off of late model head on late model shortblocks. And on early model heads on early model shortblocks.

I've put late model F heads on early model 2F shortblocks and mid vintage F heads on late model 2F shortblocks. No cutting on any of these.

I've taken .080 off of 3FE heads.


No compression problems with any of these. I'm working my way toward building a couple of 2Fes. I'll be taking only about .050 of of them. Next 3FE I build I'll probably take the full .100 off of it."


Mark...
 
Coolerman said:
Better late than never! Here are the pics of the cam gear with the elastomer center. The person that had this complained of a knocking noise.
Click to expand...
:idea:now i have to check on mine ive got a weird knock when the motor is cold. i thought it was the water pump so i changed it. not the case. how much do timing gears go for and who has the best ones.
 
So I have a 74 F head, thinking of using it on a 77 block .030 over, domed pistons, should I shave the head also or approx what compression ratio will this combo yield?
Rather not get it where I have to use octane booster....
Butch
 
Nice thread. Just blew my head gasket, engine was about ready for a rebuild anyways. It's an 86 60 with the 2F.

So, from everything I seemed to have read here, going about .30 over bore, decking the head about .80, 'rv' cam and headers (or a 3F manifold) should yeild some decent results, along with balancing. Is this about correct?
 
phoenixrider said:
Nice thread. Just blew my head gasket, engine was about ready for a rebuild anyways. It's an 86 60 with the 2F.

So, from everything I seemed to have read here, going about .30 over bore, decking the head about .80, 'rv' cam and headers (or a 3F manifold) should yeild some decent results, along with balancing. Is this about correct?
Click to expand...


Make dang sure ya have the head 'fluxed by someone that knows their s*** and drill and tap the rocker arm feed tube.
Butch
 
Texican said:
Make dang sure ya have the head 'fluxed by someone that knows their **** and drill and tap the rocker arm feed tube.
Butch
Click to expand...

what does drill and tap rocker arm feed tube do? Did I miss this in this thread?
 
phoenixrider said:
what does drill and tap rocker arm feed tube do? Did I miss this in this thread?
Click to expand...

The oil passage comes up through the head and then makes a right turn to go to the base of the rocker assembly. To make that turn, Toyota drilled through the outside of the head and plugged the drilling with an aluminum plug. The plug sometimes works loose and leaks, sometimes it blows out:eek:
So, while the head is out of the truck, drill out the plug, tap the hole and use either a pipe plug with tapered threads ot a set screw and never worry about an oil leak from that location:beer:

It is located on the pass side of the head between #4 and #5 cyl.

Ed
 
yeah, make sure you do plug that hole. the two heads i have done didnt get the plug as i asked when i did my work. the first one i let go for about 30K miles and it started to leak just a little. the machine shop told me it wouldnt... shoulda stuck to my guns. the second time, i took the head back and had them do it before i fired off the engine.

it doesnt cost much and isnt much time. dont trust the factory plug! there are other threads that discuss this mod, search around and i am sure you will find some good photos. might even (should) be in the FAQ.
 
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