"best" 2F

[FJ40Jim]

Does classic SBC have positive valve seals? I thought they only had an o-ring or an umbrella?

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

I thought that is because of the guide boss outer diameter, and that the OEM bosses are bigger than the SBC, but I don't know for certain. I do know you have always mentioned use of the ford seals with the SBC valves, and wish I knew why!

 

[FJ40Jim]

The guide OD of SBC doesn't matter because they don't use a positive seal that installs on the guide. The standard SBC umbrella seals could be used in the 2F application, but I don't use sh1tty umbrella seals on anything.
The solution is to use a guide trimmer tool to make the guide height & OD look like some relatively modern Ford w/ 11/32 valve stem that uses a positive seal on the guide.

 

[techster82]

Figured I'd give this thread an "end of the year" bump since I'm trying to finalize the setup for a rebuild of a 2F for my Silver 1985 FJ60.

I purchased the vehicle a few months ago with a cracked head knowing that worst case we'd have to pull the engine. Well it ended up being worst case. After spending hours on Mud and talking to folks much smarter than I (thanks @beno and @FJ60Cam) I think I've finally settled on a direction for the engine:

Head: 1984 61040 casting, machined for flatness only (or should we take more?), oil galley plug tapped and threaded, desmogged
Valves: SBC Stainless, 1.84x4.88 Intake (SEV-3091) and 1.50x4.88 Exhaust (SEV-2809)
Valve Seals: Ford seals from a pushrod V6 (maybe their 3.0 engine? Still searching for the correct part number)
Valve Springs: SBC Short springs, standard rate?
Head Gasket: OEM Toyota

Block: 1985 Original Block, Bored 0.060 over (we need to go at least 0.040 to clean up cylinder 5)
Pistons: OEM Toyota 0.060 over
Rings: Hastings Moly 0.060 over
Crank: 0.010 undersize
Rod Bearings: Mahle/Clevite
Main Bearings: Mahle/Clevite
Cam: Factory Cam reground to a slightly more aggressive profile (need to confirm profile, .262 maybe?)
Cam Bearings: Mahle/Clevite
Lifters: Factory lifters reground

Intake Manifold: Factory Toyota
Exhaust Manifold: Factory Toyota (Unless going to a header setup would be more ideal for the engine)
Gaskets: OEM Toyota with new new Heat Riser plate from Cruiser Outfitters

Carburetor: Factory Toyota, rebuilt

Am I missing anything or making a glaring mistake with this setup? I want to keep the reliability of the 2F but give it more low end "oomph" for offroading and carrying weight as an overlanding rig (if reasonable). Needless to say I'm anxious to get any feedback you guys are willing to give and thanks in advance.

 

[thebigredrocker]

These are older quotes so perhaps the Toyota manifold gasket has been improved. In my searches I’ve also noticed Mark W swears by Felpro. Think they both say dry, no goup

No, absolutely not.

One good Felpro gasket, flat manifolds, good fasteners, torqued to the top end of the spec.

The Felpro graphlex gasket has been out for many years now, and has proven to be the best solution to the difficult manifold sealing problem. It's so good that Toyota has replaced the sh1tty punched foil gasket with the graphlex one.

 

[Curt]

you want to get a remflex manifold gasket.

 

[techster82]

you want to get a remflex manifold gasket.

All of my gaskets came from @beno and I'm pretty sure they are graphlex type gaskets for the manifolds (I know the two gaskets that go between the intake and exhaust manifold are and pretty sure the main gasket is as well)

I also grabbed a Remflex manifold gasket for my other project FJ60 that has a leak so I can always use that one if needed.

My main concerns right now are making sure I get the correct grind on the cam for the 0.060 bore as well as set up the head correctly with the SBC parts. I'm still not totally confident in those areas.

 

[Pin_Head]

I never had a sealing problem with Remflex graphite gaskets.

 

[bugsnbikes]

Following up @Delancy thread ending thread...



1fz - h55f -split case. All sourced here in USA....no need for importing / and a brand new H55f plus bellhousing vs very used h151f for the same price.

Also this opens up the option for the NWF doubler if you wanted deep gearing options.

 

[4Cruisers]

Funny part is that I had a buddy Bring me a 3F block to the Black hills Cruiser classic cause I thought that a 3F had 7 main bearings.... Boy was I wrong!!!





I like this thread because it brings misconceptions out in to the open

@Mace That block is still in my garage here in New Mexico , which goes to show you that this thread also brings history out in to the open.

BTW, I've got everything but the head bolts needed to build a spare 3FE for my '86 FJ60, so the block will probably get used.

 

[Mace]

LOL awesome

 

[thetoyotaman]

Oldie but goodie thread. Curious if solid timing gears still available? What’s the part number for the Ford valve stem seals? And what are people using for the rod bolts?

 

[PabloCruise]

Good to see this thread back!
Question, if I have a late '77 2F (dome) but have access to some mid-80s blocks (flat), can I swap my head and internals - assuming block does not need, or has not been bored out?

 

[Mace]

yep

 

[BullHab]

They are, and I know that many folks have re-ringed and installed new rod bearings in an F or 2F at 150K after doing a valve job, and they are going strong yet today...I have an F at the shop that I am doing this to right now...the cross-hatching in the cylinder walls is still very apparent at 125K.

WOW!!@

 

[BullHab]

1977-end.
There are 2 methods.
1. Stock replacement stainless valves.
2. Stainless SBC valves.
The Serdi cutters, especially the one that cuts the entire seat and radiused throat in a single plunge, do a particularly nice job.
Kinda hard to upgrade from Stellite (TM).
Unlimited options w/ the SBC valves. Lighter seat pressure is better for valvetrain longevity.
Yes, although the common SBC swap is 1.84/1.50. Dunno if anybody is gonna make sexy valves in 1.84. Hard enough to find decent stainless in that size.
Titanium is typically harder and more abrasive than common stainless alloys. I would rather have a $10 stainless valve beat itself to death on an exhaust seat, than have a $50 titanium valve beat the seat to death.

Thanks alot for all the info. I have a 78 FJ40 2F. Looking at a future build with some head work and better valve train.

 

[BullHab]

Why would I throw a rod in a well built 2FE?



I'm not dead set on 250, but over 200 would be nice. So I guess my ultimate goal is to get over 200rwhp and not break the bank getting there, so whenever the money ends, the extras would end.

I don't want to race my truck, but loaded with gear, large tires, etc. 155hp isn't cutting it.

Just found this thread. I'm with you on achieving 200+ hp using the 2F six cylinder vice going the V8 route. Amazingly my banker, (wife) has no issue throwing money on 2F motor vive Chevy V8.

 

[PabloCruise]

Thanks alot for all the info. I have a 78 FJ40 2F. Looking at a future build with some head work and better valve train.

What month was she built?